Rust on my bandsaw table...help!

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In this part of the world you need ongoing maintenance on all your cast iron stuff in a workshop that isn't kept warm and dry constantly. Just one of those things you have to do.

Sent from my MI 3W using Tapatalk
 
+1 for Liberon Lubricating Wax, and also cotton decorators dust sheets.

I drape a sheet over the bandsaw, and have a couple of "bridges" at the front and back of my tablesaw; such that the sheet doesn't actually rest on the cast iron. I figure that any condensation/moisture will settle on the cloth, and there's an air gap (under the cloth) to the cast surface. It's seemed to work OK (in a really damp garage).
 
otter":1iwyzgbb said:
Wizard9999":1iwyzgbb said:
Didn't 9fingers do a post a while back on heating cast iron tables by just a few degrees as a long term rust solution?

Terry.

Edit: answering my own question...

tis-the-season-of-rust-and-mellow-fruitfulness-t55942.html


Well that's this weekend's little project sorted, thanks!


Did anyone else make this little set-up? If so, how did you fix the resistors to the underside of your beds? Drill holes in flanges and tap holes for tiny screws? Resistors are aluminium so magnets aren't an option. Glue would act as an insulator, so no good either.
 
Liberon wax and oil remover is light and will evaporate after the job is done removing the rust. Liberon lubricatiung wax will do the protection job....when you are not using the machine just apply a coat and leave it only buffing it off when you come back to the machine. Condensation on the cold metal is always going to be an issue unless you use a dehumidifier or have heating. I used to use lubricating wax but now prefer Liberon Black Bison (clear) on all my woodworking machinery, protecting the metal and allowing the timber to glide more easily on the beds. Hope this helps
 
edcruwys":s0ogtczf said:
Condensation on the cold metal is always going to be an issue unless you use a dehumidifier or have heating.

Or adequate ventilation and its free.

Mike
 
edcruwys":2i6c3t0s said:
Liberon wax and oil remover is light and will evaporate after the job is done removing the rust. Liberon lubricatiung wax will do the protection job....when you are not using the machine just apply a coat and leave it only buffing it off when you come back to the machine. Condensation on the cold metal is always going to be an issue unless you use a dehumidifier or have heating. I used to use lubricating wax but now prefer Liberon Black Bison (clear) on all my woodworking machinery, protecting the metal and allowing the timber to glide more easily on the beds. Hope this helps

Is this the stuff you use?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/liberon-black ... 00ml/8562f

I need to pick up some wax for mine but screwfix is just round the corner if this is ok?

Also I need to make one of those oil tin things that Pete Sellers makes so I can use it to protect my tools.
 
technium":3akeduuu said:
edcruwys":3akeduuu said:
Liberon wax and oil remover is light and will evaporate after the job is done removing the rust. Liberon lubricatiung wax will do the protection job....when you are not using the machine just apply a coat and leave it only buffing it off when you come back to the machine. Condensation on the cold metal is always going to be an issue unless you use a dehumidifier or have heating. I used to use lubricating wax but now prefer Liberon Black Bison (clear) on all my woodworking machinery, protecting the metal and allowing the timber to glide more easily on the beds. Hope this helps

Is this the stuff you use?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/liberon-black ... 00ml/8562f

I need to pick up some wax for mine but screwfix is just round the corner if this is ok?

Also I need to make one of those oil tin things that Pete Sellers makes so I can use it to protect my tools.
--

Thats the stuff....wipe on with a rag and leave it....buff up when you use the machine next
 
MikeJhn":3xgxmiqc said:
edcruwys":3xgxmiqc said:
Condensation on the cold metal is always going to be an issue unless you use a dehumidifier or have heating.

Or adequate ventilation and its free.

Mike

In my old garage workshop with a sea view it was the ventilation that was the issue :|
 
Oh come on there is always one, bringing in sea air with its saline is always going to be a problem, but most of us live in an area that does not have an excessive amount of salt, in my area of France Chlorine could be a problem with the amount of swimming pools, but in reality that does not happen.

Adequate ventilation is what has cured most of the condensation problems that have occurred in the majority of domestic dwellings since the second world war, this also applies to workshops that we by habit hermitically seal because we think that is the way to protect our metal surface's.

Mike
 
It's not to do with salt. It's to do with cold metal and moisture in the air....condensation. Waxing the beds and greasing moving parts sorts the issue, end of
 
Please explain how your garage with a sea view had condensation caused by ventilation?

Ventilation is the main cure for condensation, consult the recent building regulations that require trickle ventilation above all windows, these where introduced because in our modern hermetically sealed buildings condensation was becoming an issue again, this used to be addressed by open fires drawing the moist air out of the rooms, but the advent of central heating and the demise of the open fire caused condensation to become an issue again on post war domestic buildings.

Waxing the beds and greasing moving parts will not prevent condensation, it will go a long way to help prevent rusting of parts, but has nothing to do with preventing condensation, adequately ventilating our work space, however will help prevent excessive condensation on cold parts.

Mike
 
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