Router tip for shelf support pins

[BrianD]

I am making a book cabinet at present.

I have constructed the key parts and wish to assemble.

Before I do, I need to "drill" out the shelf support pins; however, the pin size is 5mm and not 1/4" or 6mm so the pin does not sit in the hole correctly.

Now ol' Norm uses a router with a fixture (jig for US folks) with a bit and pops the holes quite easily - I have a lot of holes to make.

So....what bit does he use?

I can use a drill c/w bit but I like the method as the orientation and depth is clearly controlled.

Suggestions please

Does any know?

 

[Argee]

5mm router straight cutters are available in both 1/2" and 1/4" shaft. I use a 1/2" shaft, with a 20mm guidebush in a jig I made based on a Norm model.

I expect others swear by a bit of pegboard and a drill, but I don't like wobbly shelves.

Ray

 

[BrianD]

Thanks Argee,

you illustrate the very point with a fine fixture.

cheers.

 

[jasonB]

I find a router drill bit cuts better than a straight router bit, the lip & spur gives a cleaner cut and the spiral clears the waste better. Trend do a 5mm one with 1/4 shank.

These are the same type of bits used for cutting the holes in flat pack components.

Jason

 

[MooreToolsPlease]

It's also worth noting, that Norm probably uses 1/4" shelf pins,
So wont have any problems sourcing cutters

 

[Steve Maskery]

The problem I have with Norms jig is one of cummulative error. Now Ray, I wouldn't dream of casting nasturtiums on the quality of your jig-making but how do you ensure that every one of those there holes are exactly the same distance apart? IIUIC the Norm jig is turned end for end for registration. If I have that wrong then I apologize and my comments can be ignored, but if I am right then any error in the spacing of the holes is doubled.

That's why I take the lo-tech approach of a piece of MDF with a series of holes in it. The "jig" (it's rather a grand term for something so humble but I have to call it something) is registered on the bottom of the cabinet, so every row of holes is the same, even if there is variation in hole spacing. My shelves don't wobble.

I agree that if you can drill the holes before assembly it is more comfortable, but for me, registration is the problem, hence my awkward but reliable method.

There was a jig shown a while back where the Norm-style board was sawn in half down the row of holes and then separated far enough to allow the guild bush to pass. The result is that the router does not have to be lifted from hole to hole, it can just be un-plunged, slid and plunged again.

My 2p
Steve

 

[lemonjeff]

Steve,
In this case accumulative error can be eliminated by using a pin in the previous hole to index to the next hole when drilling the jig.
The ends of the jig can also be indexed using a pin so the jig can be flipped accurately.

Jeff.

 

[Argee]

Just so - you can see one of the end index holes on my jig, used for extending the length of a run.

Ray

 

[BrianD]

Hi Argee,

quick question, what is your pitching for your holes? 75mm/3" ?

 

[Smudger]

I wimped out and bought a Trend jig...

Comes with an appropriate collar and cutter.

I've still managed to screw it up on occasions...

 

[Argee]

.... what is your pitching for your holes? 75mm/3" ?

They're 25mm centres, using a 20mm guidebush - I use a 5mm cutter to match the pins I get from Hafele. This makes the holes on the jig fairly close together, but no problem to use. Here's a rough diagram:

Ray.

 

[Mr T]

Hi

I don't follow Norm's activities, but could you not eliminate any problems of cumulative error by simply making the jig so you can invert the locating board?

Chris

 

[brianhabby]

Hi

I don't follow Norm's activities, but could you not eliminate any problems of cumulative error by simply making the jig so you can invert the locating board?

Chris

You could do that but I've made a jig very similar to the one by Argee pictured above and had no problems with wobbling shelves. I think if you're careful in measuring and cutting the holes in the jig you shouldn't have any problems. It's certainly been the answer for me.

regards

Brian

 

[manso]

FWIW, apparently, strictly speaking, the two words have specific meanings.
Regards

 

[BrianD]

Thanks for the info Argee, 25mm it is then.

I bought the Trend 5mm single flute.

However I am going to use 7/16" hole to reduce the amount of holes material to remove.

Cheers

 

[Tim Nott]

You don't need a router - I had to do several hundred of these (and since have had to do thousands more) and I used a drill.
On things such as kitchen cabinets the holes are 5mm dia @ 32mm centres. This can accomodate shelf pins and Blum or Hafele-style hinges with the special 5mm screw fixisngs (think very short Confirmats).
I got a thing called the Gizmo 32 (www.allenfield.com/portable.htm). Disadvantages - only drills two holes between moving, it's easy to miss locating the sprung poins in the last hole, and should you break or wear out a bit, you need to find left-handed replacements on accont of the gearing. Advantages - fits any 3/8" capacity hand drill.
The other thing I used was a gadget I bodged together myself from from pieces of 40mm x 6mm steel with 5mm holes spaced 32mm apart.
. I can drill 8 holes without moving it (and clearing away the sawdust) so it's much quicker. Disadvantage - you need to mark and drill the holes in the steel with great accuracy. In practice I use the Gizmo for drilling the frist two hooles as it references nicely of the base of the bookshelf or cabinet, and my jig for the rest. If I can work out how to post a picture, I will - this is my first time here![/img]

Update - pics at http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/Timolot/ShelfHoles