Router Table Sled

[Gill]

The mitre gauge on my router table is not one I'm happy to trust, so I decided to make a sled for it. All the components were cut out of construction grade 12mm ply and dados were routed to enable the components to slot together. I also drilled four 6mm diameter holes in each of the main uprights, for reasons which will become apparent later .

The components are: one sled base with parallel dados, two uprights, a top, three inner braces, and a hardwood runner for the slot in the router table.

The biggest challenge was always going to be aligning the runner with the leading upright (which would be the sled fence). To do this I made a simple jig by notching a scrap piece of plywood, then placing it in the leading dado and using an engineer's square to position the runner.

Once the runner was fitted, the fence was glued and clamped together. I checked the front of the fence for squareness against the sled by using an engineer's square as it was clamped. I also pushed two 6mm diameter drill bits through a couple of the holes to help ensure accurate alignment.

Finally, I cut two wedges from scrap wood. If a drill bit is pushed through the holes in the fence, these wedges can be used to hold the workpiece securely in place. They can also be used to position a stop block at the end of the fence.

Gill

 

[neilyweely]

Hi Gill

Forgive my stupidity (Which I am confident it is) but two questions ;

The sled seems to hold the workpiece a fair bit above the router table level. Is this going to become a problem at any point? I have always made my sleds as thin as possible in order to keep the whole affair as flat to the table as possible.

Also the same concerns with the sled sitting a bit away from the cutter. Again, I have always thought that it would be better closer, as close as possible in fact.

I do need a sled ATM, as i have a load of end grain to route. If you can clarify this all for me I shall copy yours!!!! :wink:

Thanks Gill

Neil

 

[Gill]

Hi Neil

I made this sled out of sturdy plywood because I wanted as much stability as possible, especially with a hold-down which pressed back against the fence. When I made this sled, I had in mind some rather long router bits which protrude far enough above the router table for the thickness of the plywood to be acceptable. The router bits I use vary in diameter so getting the sled as close to the bit as possible is always going to be a problem unless a dedicated sled is built for each router bit. That's too much work for me!

There's no reason why you can't make a similar sled out of thinner material. In fact, I did make one previously with a 4mm MDF sled and a solid hardwood fence, but I found that rather flimsy.

There were two main reasons for posting this jig; firstly, the method of aligning the runner underneath the sled at 90 degrees to the fence above it. I've not seen anyone else do it like that before. Secondly, the use of drill bits protruding from the fence being used in conjunction with wedges to provide hold-downs for the work piece and/or a stop block. It's a much cheaper option than buying metal hold-downs from a retailer .

If you should choose to make your sled out of thinner material and set the runner so the sled is closer to the cutter, I shan't criticise you . After all, it's about making the jig which will best meet your particular needs. I just hope you find my construction tips helpful.

Gill