Rounding Off Skirting In-Place

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kdampney

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We've just had a loft conversion completed, and some of the skirting/moulding that make up the edges of the stairs is a little 'industrial'. How would you round off the left-hand edge to get a bullnose profile (to match the rest of our skirting)? The width of the skirting is around 32mm I think.

Skirting.jpg


I can think of:
  • 1. A very small router (trim router?) with a roundover bit, if they go that small.
    2. A Dremel-style multi-tool, do they have roundover-shaped bits?
    3. Planing, and sand near the corner.
    4. Sanding. Lots. Of. Sanding.
    5. Make and glue some rounded-over beading on top.
    6. Anything else I'm missing?

Thanks :)
 

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You won't be able to use any power tool solution with the boards in place - they're too close to the wall. Unless you just do a simple roundover.

Also, it's it pine or edge banded ply?

Easiest in the long run is probably going to be taking it off the wall.

Otherwise, you can get profiled hand planes
 
I think option no. 5 is what I'd go for. Perhaps make it a tad proud so that the edge may be trimmed back flush?
 
MattRoberts":mzngwc26 said:
Easiest in the long run is probably going to be taking it off the wall.

Unless I've misread the situation, the bit that needs moulding is the stair string, so it won't come off the wall without taking the stairs out first.
 
MattRoberts":35k7m2bs said:
Also, it's it pine or edge banded ply?
Easiest in the long run is probably going to be taking it off the wall.

I think it's pine. And they are part of the stairs, so no taking them down unfortunately! I did consider a profiled hand plane, just was hoping that some kind of rotary tool would get near enough to the corners.
 
Are you painting or keeping the natural wood?

If painting, add a bead, it will be much easier to do neatly and less chance of messing it up.
 
If you go for the Veritas tools do pay extra attention to changing grain direction as they will happily dig themselves in to the grain if you find yourself going the wrong way. Thankfully, the "blades" can cut on the push or pull stroke so you're not having to flip them around.

Oh, and starting with a smaller size for a first pass is a good idea too rather than going straight to 1/4". They'll not get you right into corners either; leaving you about 1" to play with.
 
+1 more for adding a moulding - wouldn't go near that with a router. As it is, that corner joint is going to need a bit of work :/
 
petermillard":jvfiabkg said:
As it is, that corner joint is going to need a bit of work :/

Didn't spot that until you pointed it out :/ . Bring the short horizontal section on the left up to the same height by gluing on a fillet? Then fit the new moulding to the horizontal, and scribe the moulding on the rear wall to suit? Sorry, just thinking out loud....
 
I suggest you add a bead slightly wider than the string with a hockey stick shape to rebate round the top edge with a half round front edge.
Sorry to say but those square front edges you seem to have on the treads and the riser running into the corner, together with the crude finish on the string top edge make me worry about the quality of the job.
 
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