Robert Sorby RS2

[Chris152]

I bought a new (used) lathe today! It's a RS2 with Dart electronic variable speed (0-3000 rpm) and came with three chucks and some other stuff that I don't know what to do with.

As you can see, I need to rearrange the space to fit it in, but that should be an easy removal of the shelf/ worktop.
These are the lathe bits that came with it (I was also given a mask and some wood and other things):

It has all the paperwork from new.

I just got home and set it up, and it's running a treat (in the sense that it's running nice and quietly and smoothly - I can't actually use it as I don't own any gouges yet. hmmm).

Two questions if I may:
How much tension should there be on the drive belt? I allowed the motor to rest its weight on it and slackened it a tiny bit and then tightened the bolt holding the motor in place, should that be fine?
What would you recommend to sharpen gouges on a budget? I've read about different systems but hope to find a grinder and guides that aren't too expensive. (I hope asking about sharpening in the turning section isn't like that question when it appears in handtools?) (hammer)

I'm delighted with it - half the price of the lathes I had been looking at new, and it's only been used for hobby by the same owner from new. Thanks to all who advised in my other thread in this part of the forum, especially Chas who kindly replied to my pm about the lathe.

C

 

[JWD]

Hi chris

I use the axminster slow running trade rated grinder (£160) for sharpening, its incredibly quiet and the wheels run true right out of the box! alternatively the 8" record grinder is well favoured by many on this forum at around £90 - sharpening jigs on ebay are about £30-40, however for £0 you can make a similar wooden one from scraps: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfmIv0iXjis

Specific tension on drive belts isn't that important, you should maybe be able to flex the middle of the belt between the two spindles about 8-12mm, if you over tighten it you're only going to reduce its lifespan and also risk damage to the motor if for some reason your work jams and the belt cant slip. - having said that i'm not sure if the variable speed may make a difference so hopefully someone brighter than me will be along shortly.

If thats your first lathe then you're incredibly lucky and i doubt you'll ever need to upgrade it!

cheers
Joe

 

[Chris152]

Thanks Joe. The sharpening question's now sorted - in complete contradiction to what I asked about a cheap option, I decided to get a Pro-Edge. I spent ages reading threads about different methods on the forum and info elsewhere and realised what a good bit of kit it is, with accurate jigs that hopefully even I won't make too much of a mess with - but that remains to be seen.

After reading your post, I checked the tension on the belt and think I had it overtightened - it now has about 10mm movement. I really appreciate your advice - thanks.

 

[Robbo3]

In your box of bits there seem to be 3 screw chucks. I can't see the rear to discern whether they screw onto the headstock or are held in the chuck jaws. Either way, you drill a suitably sized hole in your blank to mount on the screw chuck.
Apologies if you already knew this.
Post a photo of any other bits you are not sure of.

 

[Chris152]

Thanks Robbo. Yes, three screw chucks, one which screws onto the headstock, one which fits into the Titan chuck and the tiny one one which doesn't seem to do either!

The one that screws into the headstock is on the left, with a plate on it - I'm assuming they can go together as they're a perfect fit. Does that mean it gives greater hold when both the screw and plate are attached to the wood?
I've arranged the Titan chuck behind the bits that clearly work with it (according to the paperwork).
In the centre are some jaws, but I don't know if they're for the Titan or the Robot chucks (I'm just assuming the two on the right are both Robot chucks, whatever that means - one compresses in, the other out). I also don't know what the jaws would be for, or even why you'd have the robot chucks if you have the Titan.
Also, the small, straight rest - what would that be for?
Finally, the chucks don't have regular keys but levers - it'll be fine, but seems a bit long-winded compared to keys?
Any thoughts much appreciated!
C
oh - and does the disc that attaches to the titan chuck convert it into a face plate?
And I just realised there are four screw chucks - the one on the paperwork fits into the titan chuck.

 

[JWD]

No problem mate! Ooh pro-edge, i think truth is you just really like the 'sorby red' colour
I'm very jealous of your setup now - i hope you can turn some fantastic things!

Joe

 

[Chris152]

Just to keep my question about all this kit in perspective, here's the sum total of my turning output to date.

Three hours of tuition from a very kind and patient man at my local turning club.
What's that saying about 'All the gear...'?

 

[Chris152]

No problem mate! Ooh pro-edge, i think truth is you just really like the 'sorby red' colour
I'm very jealous of your setup now - i hope you can turn some fantastic things!

Joe

I also ordered a starter set of - wait for it - Sorby tools. I'm thinking of re-doing the colour scheme in the 'workshop'. ha. Thanks Joe.

 

[Robbo3]

Seems like you have got most of the bits sussed out.

Can't help with the chucks as I've never owned a Titan or Robot.

Small toolrest is mainly to get as close to the work as possible on small between centre items or other small items held in the chuck.

The lighter coloured, long nose jaws, look like they might fit an Axminster chuck because of the groove in the back - as opposed to Record jaws (& others) which have a tenon to fit in a slot in the jaw carriers. The screw hole spacing is also critical.

Yes, looks like a faceplate ring for the Titan.

 

[Chris152]

I did wonder if the photo of the chucks/ jaws was a bit vague for anyone to identify, unless they happened to have exactly the same. I'm going to take them along to the turning club this week and see if anyone can have a fiddle and let me know. And I appreciate your replies about the other bits, I think I know what's what now.

My tool set arrived yesterday and I had a play with the roughing gouge today - it was sharp enough to use, but daren't try the others til I can give them a proper sharpening first. Have to say, turning wood is pretty magical and incredibly satisfying - even with just a roughing gouge.

 

[Chris152]

I decided to get a Pro-Edge. I spent ages reading threads about different methods on the forum and info elsewhere and realised what a good bit of kit it is, with accurate jigs that hopefully even I won't make too much of a mess with - but that remains to be seen.

Well, it turns out I can make a mess with it. It took three goes just now to get the roughing gauge sharp without losing the square edge (90 degrees to the tool). Twice I had to re-square it and start grinding again, and it's not absolutely straight on the end still. But it's working. The spindle gauge was fine with standard grind. I think half the problem was just that I've never sharpened like that before, and that it's easy to not locate the tool in the V-shape jig precisely. Well, I found it easy not to.

One very odd thing - the jig won't fit when I set it to sharpen at 90 degrees - it touches the paper/ side of the housing. Is there some adjustment?

edit - I'll ask the question about the jig in General woodworking.

 

[Robbo3]

You shouldn't really need the V block for a spindle roughing gouge. Just use the table set to the relevant angle. Take care not to grind so that the wings are in front of the centre (bulls horns) as they can catch out (pun intended) the unwary.

 

[Chris152]

Thanks Robbo. This is what I ended up with

The photo doesn't do justice to the wandering edge, but you can see where the bevel meets the shaft an indication of what's happening on the edge. Just practice, I guess. I just tried putting a fingernail profile on the bowl gauge (came with standard grind) and that seems to have worked relatively well, as the jig is very precise and I've now learned the importance of creeping up on the edge, not exceeding it. (The reflected light makes it look like it has a square facet on the bevel, but it doesn't.)

 

[John. B]

For my tuppence worth, I use a pro Edge, I can only say the way I use it. (rightly or wrongly) For the roughing gouge, flat on the table at 45 degrees. Do the sides first then the middle to join the sides. ( I don't use the jig block because most roughing gouge backs are not perfectly round and on a V block it's not smooth) Similarly, the spindle or bowl gouge, sides first middle or point last. Particularly when re profiling. You did not mention what belts you use, most important! I mainly use Ceramic both 60 & 120 grit. Secondly I also use Zirconium again both grits. I did buy a 1200 Trizact belt when I got the Pro edge and have probably used it 3 or four timed in the last 3 years. I do not use Aluminium Oxide because 90 % of my tools are HSS and Aluminium oxide would wear out in seconds. Aluminium oxide is for carbon steel.
Hope some of this helps.
John. B

 

[CHJ]

Well, it turns out I can make a mess with it. It took three goes just now to get the roughing gauge sharp without losing the square edge (90 degrees to the tool). Twice I had to re-square it and start grinding again, and it's not absolutely straight on the end still. .

Don't obsess too much about square fronts or non linier curves on the tool tips, the wood does not care what shape it is as long as it's sharp.
What does matter is how you present the tool to the wood so that you get bevel support, would not matter if your gouge had a 5 or 10 degree out of square face, just might make it a little more awkward to present it to the wood dependent upon which way round.

 

[Chris152]

For the roughing gouge, flat on the table at 45 degrees. Do the sides first then the middle to join the sides. ( I don't use the jig block because most roughing gouge backs are not perfectly round and on a V block it's not smooth)
...
You did not mention what belts you use, most important! I mainly use Ceramic both 60 & 120 grit. Secondly I also use Zirconium again both grits. I did buy a 1200 Trizact belt when I got the Pro edge and have probably used it 3 or four timed in the last 3 years. I do not use Aluminium Oxide because 90 % of my tools are HSS and Aluminium oxide would wear out in seconds. Aluminium oxide is for carbon steel.
John. B

Thanks John - I got the 1-2-3 method from the Sorby video and it certainly works better to focus on a bit at a time and then join them together in one move - ok on the fingernail jig but the roughing gouge I just found trickier - I'll try it without the V-guide next time, just to see.
The only belts I have are the ones that came with it - a 60, 120 and 240, not sure what type. The 60's blue and the others burgundy-ish. I stopped in Yandles today but their stock's low so I got the 3000 Trizact to try on a hand plane blade, but wanted to get the ceramic ones for the gouges. I'll get them delivered from somewhere.

Don't obsess too much about square fronts or non linier curves on the tool tips, the wood does not care what shape it is as long as it's sharp.
What does matter is how you present the tool to the wood so that you get bevel support, would not matter if your gouge had a 5 or 10 degree out of square face, just might make it a little more awkward to present it to the wood dependent upon which way round.

That was the question I didn't ask but meant to - is this edge good enough? I really don't have much of a clue about turning yet and was looking to get the kind of edge you might want on a plane, but wondering if that's necessary. That said, I turned a square section sweet chestnut spindle blank to round with it and it worked fine.

Thanks both
C

 

[John. B]

Chris, The blue belts are probably Zirconium but look inside, the type should written on the inside of the belt. Ceramic, usually dark-ish red colour. Again look inside. Aluminium Oxide, brown. You can use them, even on HSS but the're not as good as Ceramic or Zirconium and will wear very quickly. Look online, you do not need to get the genuine Sorby there are others that are cheaper like Sait which I think are just as good. But is is your choice.
Good luck.
John. B

 

[okeydokey]

Hi Chris
You still around?
Have you still got the Sorby lathe? How do you find it as I'm thinking of buying a variable speed one

 

[Chris152]

that's me offering my thoughts on your current thread! 4.5 years ago, time flies eh.

 

[okeydokey]

Aha thanks Chris152
Goes to show that when your throwing out odd threads new and responding to old that you should look carefully at who has kindly replied

Perhaps your the only person in the country who has one of these potentially 2 if I buy one as well.