Rob Lee's new plough plane

[Javier]

Neat!
It seems that all those comments about the LV handles are having a measurable effect...they definitely look more curvy to me (at least the part that fits into the palm).
I can't wait to try it out either!

Handle looks a bit thick.

 

[Paul Chapman]

I'm a little more surprised at the absence of nickers.

Maybe they will appear if/when a combination version is produced. If so, I hope they find a way of making them adjustable both vertically and horizontally, because that would really be a worthwhile advance on what's been available up till now.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[dunbarhamlin]

What I really want is a symmetrical plough, so the fence can be used equally effectively on either side. (and indeed, decent adjustment for fence and depth stop, as well as heavy cutters)
Until then, I'll stick with what I have.

 

[Rob Lee]

Here's a couple from WoodNet he just plunked down...

I guess it's now confirmed that Rob Lee is a Trekky?
-Andy

Firstly - isn't that spelled with an "ie" and not "y" ???

Second - while I certainly do enjoy all of the series' - I don't own a phaser, a tribble, speak Klingon or dress up and go to conventions...
:roll:

:lol:

LLAP -

Rob

 

[dunbarhamlin]

Hmmm, not sure about the tribble denial - these planes are breeding at an astounding rate

Note also the verbal trickery of the final denial -

... dress up and go to conventions.

And given the wondrous hephaestian temple that is LV, a Vulcan connection cannot reasonably be denied :lol:

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Since Rob has broken cover on the plough, I guess I can post the picture he sent me a while back. It looks a nicer one than those posted so far.

Son of a #044 and a #50?

You know as much as I do. Only Alf appears to have used one.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[MikeW]

...Many thanks Mike for posting the pics, but you've evaded answering about page three...

No one ask inquired on the forums about page three--have gotten, uh, one or two emails, though :lol:

As I haven't seen what page three looks like, though, I have no idea what it says. I do sort of know what is on it, though :wink:

Take care, Mike

 

[MikeW]

No screw adjust...Might make it a tad easier to adjust the depth...but not in the larger scheme of things. I had a wedge-arm plow for years that had a depth stop which was wedged. I never paid it no mind.

Half the plows I have are adjusted manually and tightened in place via a thumbscrew. It's not like they need changed frequently...

Take care, Mike

 

[dchenard]

Take care, Mike
who's a bit jealous about the September get together...

That's really too bad... You'll be missing on great party! =P~ :lol:

DC

 

[Paul Chapman]

The arrangement for locking the fence in position looks good. Better than the usual screws which are tightened up against the rods and where the thread can get damaged if they are tightened up too much.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Rob Lee]

The arrangement for locking the fence in position looks good. Better than the usual screws which are tightened up against the rods and where the thread can get damaged if they are tightened up too much.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

Ahhh... what you can't see is that the lock-up on the fence arm is a pair of collet chucks, working on drill rod... the fence slides in and out beautifully....and stays parallel...

You guys would say..."it works a treat"... :lol:

 

[Paul Chapman]

The arrangement for locking the fence in position looks good. Better than the usual screws which are tightened up against the rods and where the thread can get damaged if they are tightened up too much.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

Ahhh... what you can't see is that the lock-up on the fence arm is a pair of collet chucks, working on drill rod... the fence slides in and out beautifully....and stays parallel...

You guys would say..."it works a treat"... :lol:

Sounds good, Rob

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Paul Kierstead]

and stays parallel...

You guys would say..."it works a treat"... :lol:

Now that is a worthy improvement.

 

[dchenard]

and stays parallel...

You guys would say..."it works a treat"... :lol:

Now that is a worthy improvement.

Can't wait to try it, but I must say that I finally acquired long rods for my 044, and they seem to work quite well. I might even start to like the tool after all :lol:

DC

 

[woodbloke]

The new LV plough looks really tasty....the 'Slope' in Salisbury has just got a bit steeper and slightly more greasy now :wink: - Rob

 

[AHoman]

while I certainly do enjoy all of the series' - I don't own a phaser, a tribble, speak Klingon or dress up and go to conventions...

I notice that there was no mention of the holodeck. Anyone seen Terry recently, by the way?
-Andy :roll:

 

[AHoman]

What I really want is a symmetrical plough, so the fence can be used equally effectively on either side.

That would be ideal, also for a new version of the Record 778.
-Andy

 

[Evergreen]

Hmmmmm.

I've got a Record 044C and although the forward curving plastic handle doesn't attract many admirers, I can assure you it's very comfortable and helps to apply downward, as well as forward, pressure.

IMHO, its "scorpion tail"shape works better as a piece of design than Rob Lee's latest offering where the wooden handle perches rather crudely on the back.

My 044C works just fine but like all planes of this type, has tearout problems with tricky grain. It'll be interesting to see how this new plough copes with a bit of dodgy grain.

Regards.

 

[ydb1md]

I think difficulties w/ dodgy grain is simply a fact with any open mouthed plane. Plows also have the issue of taking a thick cut and having an on open mouth.

 

[MikeW]

...My 044C works just fine but like all planes of this type, has tearout problems with tricky grain. It'll be interesting to see how this new plough copes with a bit of dodgy grain.

The bedding angle is the same. That and in conjunction with what Dave mentions (no mouth, taking too heavy a cut in the wood one is working) will ensure there will be tear out.

You can try using a back bevel on a spare iron until the cut is blow the surface. Set lightly it should work.

When I am working on difficult grain, I have done one of two things. Carefully used a mortise guage to mark out for the groove, or simply knifed the lines with a marking knife. In both cases a very light cut for a few passes. Once below the surface, it may still take a relatively light cut compared to non-wild grained woods, but for a piece of furniture it doesn't take much longer.

Also, while a plow does not have a mouth, it helps to make sure the skates are truly flat along their length as well as straight in-line to each other. If the skates are not flat and the point where the iron is bedded is higher than the tow or heel, the iron needs to project further than it ought. This can lead to problems (and this condition is not uncommon) due to iron flex and make the start/end point more difficult.

If the skate is twisted or otherwise the front/back parts of the skate out of being truly in-line with each other, it is also a pain to make a decent groove and can affect the alignment of the fence to the body. If the fence is off, that also makes starting a groove difficult.

Take care, Mike