Rip saw

[cwroy]

Hi guys,

I'm looking to buy a rip saw. I've had a look at the pax 5 point.

It's breasted, tapered and seems nice overall. Except maybe for the handle which hurts my hand, i'll fix that with my trusty rasp.

I'm wondering wheter i'll go with a 24" or a 26", ripping pine cherry and oak. And how do you level the teeth after a shapening since it's breasted?

Thanks for your input.

 

[MikeW]

Hi CWR,

The teeth are jointed using a flat file with light pressure while following the breasting. Then filed with the saw file until the flats are evenly removed.

This is the way to sharpen any hand saw anyway. When doing a breasted saw as long as the file is run from one end to the other, the breasting will be maintained.

Take care, Mike

 

[Scrit]

I'm wondering wheter i'll go with a 24" or a 26", ripping pine cherry and oak.

How tall are you and how long is your arm? Traditional ripping saws were made up to 30in in length - I'm over 6ft tall with longer than average arms so I find a 28in saw works best for me. A 24in saw seems a bit crabby and cramped

Scrit

 

[cwroy]

Thanks for your info guys,

I'm 5'10" so I suppose a 28" would be better?

 

[Scrit]

26 to 28in, depending on your arm length I'd say (I should have said I'm 6ft 2in)

Scrit

 

[dunbarhamlin]

I'm 5'10" and find 28" spot on for ripping.

 

[JesseM]

I have both, and can't really speak to the difference between them. You get slightly more control with the shorter length, and more cutting length with the longer. If you are new to ripping then I suggest you build a saw bench which makes ripping a lot less error prone.

Prior to the saw bench my saw would always wander off the line. Thinking it was the set I tried removing some and it didn't help. I finally built the bench and it turned out my position was the problem. Just a thought

 

[cwroy]

Jesse,

Right now I work with a Bacho Xt saw, the set is too wide. It makes a kerf almost 1/16". I can saw staight and square, this saw performs quite well. But I would sure like if I used less energy riping. Kind of like when I found out that putting wax on the sole of the plane makes them glide...

I work in an appartment, hence I'm a full neanderthal. By the way I rip sitting over my plank on a 15$ workmate wanabe. Don't laugh ;-)

Regards

 

[MikeW]

Hi CWR--you're not the only person confined to cramped quarters. I though my space was small until I saw Farfadet's and when I saw the work he produces in it, I am in awe.

So, the short of it is you have a challenge. I think your Workmate should be more than tall enough to keep a 28" saw from striking the floor, but it may be tall enough to where you cannot fully withdraw the saw enough to make that length matter, at least in the current space and bench in use.

I would recommend to observe how much of your present Bahco saw is actually in use and add a couple inches to it. A 26" may be better, but perhaps a couple inches to either side, too. But only you can figure that part out.

A panel saw of 24" will most likely gain you a thinner saw blade, but I suspect a 26" or longer will not.

Set may be the bigger issue. So lessen it. If the XT is a hardpoint saw (hardened teeth) and if you have a DMT or other diamond honing plate, use it to lessen the set. If it tracks well now, take one swipe on each side beginning from the heel clear off the toe of the saw.

Try cutting again. If the saw is still tracking well but still has too much kerf, do the above once more. Keep going like that--including test cutting to make sure you do not over do it--until the set is lessened to suit you and the woods you use.

If the saw begins to drift one way or the other, take one extra, light swipe of the hone on the side it drifts to and test cut again. Do be careful and do this over time and several cuts in the woods you use most.

You may find for your needs the Bahco works well. If so, you've saved some money for wood!

Take care, Mike

 

[bugbear]

Hi guys,

I'm looking to buy a rip saw. I've had a look at the pax 5 point.

It's breasted, tapered and seems nice overall. Except maybe for the handle which hurts my hand, i'll fix that with my trusty rasp.

Heh. It's a whole new era - Rob Lee's mantra of users modifying tools to suit themselves is finally here!!

BugBear

 

[Paul Chapman]

By the way I rip sitting over my plank on a 15$ workmate wanabe. Don't laugh ;-)

Nobody should laugh. I reckon the Workmate was one of the most significant tools ever 8) 8) When Ron Hickman invented it, it enabled thousands of would-be DIYers to work anywhere. Just a pity that Black & Decker dumbed it down a bit.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Mittlefehldt]

I started this whole woodworking lark in my mid forties and my first workbench was a heavy duty workmate, and given my level of experience at that point I am glad it was dumbed down as you say. I actually used it to build a real workbench, though it was less than suitable for the task it was all I had.

I have a tremendous respect for them, and I still use it when I am working away from the shop and need some holding ability, though generally now I use a couple of portable saw benches I made for much work, they are good to sit on to.

James

 

[Evergreen]

I agree with Paul and James - Ron Hickman should be made Saint Ron as the result of his invention. 30 years ago, I made many toys and other items for my children, using a Workmate in the kithen after they'd gone to bed.

Now I'm back to working off the same Workmate and a couple of saw horses until I get a workshop and bench again, having moved house recently.

Regards.

 

[Joel Moskowitz]

I love my workmate!! I bought mine in the B+D employee store 27 years ago and I use it a lot. I have the two level one and with it the legs folded it's a great saw bench and I use it all the time.