Resin casting door knob medallions

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Scrit

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I have the task of reproducing one new door (possibly a second one, too), three drawer fronts and a bottle rack door (v. narrwo) to match an existing oak kitchen - made more that 15 years ago so no longer in production. This won't be too much of a problem apart from the special tooling grinds, however, the lady of the house also wants to have oak door knobs to match her existing door knobs and whilst I can turn these I'm somewhat stumped about how to reproduce the medallion inserts in the tops which look a bit like brass medallions about 10mm across (but are probably plastic). I was thinking about using something like resin casting to reproduce these. Has anyone here got any experience of this technique or could recommend somewhere to look further? Many thanks in advance

Scrit
 
Hi Srit
I have a friend that used to make medallions for work and used some type of
resin to to amke them with.
I have not heard from in a little time but I would like to know how he did them my self, so I will try to find out if I can .
 
Id look towards a tool maker / metal bloke . Having said that if you google the maker and ask around online you may be able to find the real thing . What make is the kitchen ?
 
Hmm, sounds like a job for some Glass fibre resin. Just a suggestion but could you get a mould from one of the medalions already on the doors and then cast some glass fibre resin into the moulds? Add some colouring or paint them and job should be a good un! Might be worth looking into.
 
JFC":n7hkpnl9 said:
What make is the kitchen ?
No badges, just Blum hinges, reasonable MFC carcasses and well-made (albeit CNC-routed) solid oak frame and panel doors. The people who installed it went pop 10 years or more ago. I've tried a couple of people who I know import handles and drawn a blank, hence the DIY route.

mailee":n7hkpnl9 said:
Just a suggestion but could you get a mould from one of the medalions already on the doors and then cast some glass fibre resin into the moulds? Add some colouring or paint them and job should be a good un!
Yes. That was my line of thinking. But never having done this before I'm open to suggestions. How do you form the mould, and what should I use as a release compoind? I've laid-up f/g in the past, but that was for big stuff. Will the resin hold the f=detail of the original medallion?

Sorry, more questions........ :roll:

Scrit
 
hi scrit, at last something about which you seem to have limited knowledge. should we mark the calender???? :lol: :lol:

anyway these days one tends not to use glass fibre resin, but one of
the other resins.

you make the outside of the mould with lego bricks or similar,
although since your kids are older, you may not have any left. :cry:

so build a wooden box about 50 % bigger than the handle. then seal it with
silicon, to stop the resin going out. now one of the names that used to be
involved in resin casting were alex tiranti, they had a shop off the
tottenham court road, still do i think.

you can get clear or even metal filled resins, i only know some of this
because i used to build 1/43 model cars which mainly were french, and of
a yellow ish resin. these tend to be made in pretty simple moulds.

as with all moulding you have to cast two halves of the female to produce the male final part. so in you case you can copy the inserts you already have, however the problem with this is that casting will involve a little
shrinkage. historically, what one has done is half fill the mould box, the wooden one you have made, with a silicon or other hard setting item that does not give off too much heat when it sets. when it is beginning to go
off, you press in the bottom half of the item to be moulded, this must be covered with a release agent that will not affect the moulding material.
once that lower part has set, release the item. then re-seat it, put some kind of thin non porous layer like baking parchment on top, and cut around the master. now pour more of the mould maker on top until it more than covers the master. let it set, break the mould apart without breaking the
whole box. lift out handles on the parchment would work.

next think about where you want to fill the mould. normally one would
make the casting box with the master upside down to ensure the smoothest
finish on that side. drill two holes, one for the casting medium, and one for the air and over fill to escape from. mix your casting medium, try to remove as much air as possible, make sure there is a release agent in the mould , often to this day people use talcuum powder, but check the tech spec of the medium, then pour. SLOWLY, try to trickle the casting medium in, so it fills up and causes less problems with air displacement. shake the moulding box a little, then set aside.

wait until the cast is set, then either curse me, or send praise, i can take either.

if the medallions are actually brass, you can even cast brass at home,
although you need a really good way of heating it.

cold resin casting medium is what you are looking for, and tiranti are i think still the best for smaller quantities.

hope that helps a bit, it is not as dauntig as it seems

paul :wink:
 
hi scrit checked some of my facts, and indeed i think for what you are doing alex tiranti are the way to go.
they still have a london shop, plus one in thatcham berks

here is an email address [email protected].


i found them easily on yahoo, and you check out details there too.
paul :wink:
 
Engineer beat me to Tiranti

They do RTV silicon to take a mould of the existing, resins and brass powder to mix with the resin to get it to look like metal. They also do putty silicon that just mixes up like putty and you can just pres the knob into it to make the mould no need for moulding boxes etc. Or you could just build up layers of laytex and use that but a one piece open mould would be best in RTV silicon.

Look under moulding & casting

http://www.tiranti.co.uk/indexhome.asp

Jason
 
Scrit
One little trick on small stuff when using a casting resin is to have some method of creating low pressure over the mould after pouring to pull out all small air bubbles; I have used a Vacu Vin type pump/upside down plastic pot on a base board seal before with success.
FWIW
Regards
martin
 
Just an idea Scrit but if you can post a pic of it someones local supplier may have them . You may even end up with every woodworker in the country looking for your handles :lol:
 

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