Resawing loads of pallet wood

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Here's the test piece, just glued, 3mm boards on 5mm ply, half short half long of the pieces with nail holes, and I didn't go overboard on the glue. I'll put this on a high kitchen shelf above the kettle where it'll get regularly steamed then get cold overnight.

Left side is danish oil, right is tung oil, 4 applications each - am not necessarily seeking comments on the finishing but I prefer the danish already, the tung oil has too much of a sheen as it appears now anyway, 18 hours after the last application.

..and yep, I need more practice on the bandsaw :^) - and need to make a slightly angled fence the way it likes to cut, the blade was wandering towards the fence given half the chance.

Now I got some 9mm OSB (for nothing !) that's the backing I'll use, I'd still like to stick to 3mm boards if I can, gives me 2 pieces per plank with planed edges to stick, plus leaves the central piece pleasantly wavy on both large faces, for something else in the vicinity.
 

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You've used quite a thin material for your test board so expect it to curl, it may help to oil the back of the ply to try to even up absorption/drying rates, but I may be quite wrong about that too.
 
Just bear in mind that wood can take longer than 2 days to warp. That said, if you're happy with your test, then go for it. More than happy to be proved wrong :D
 
Cheers guys, I can leave it for a fortnight, lots else to do.

The backing I found is nearly twice as thick so am pretty optimistic about it, the dry wall it's going on has a load of studwork behind (and a mains cable somewhere..) so plenty of places to secure it.

My stanley stud finder beeps for mains when about 20cm away from a cable/socket in air - it beeps over a massive area of the wall so I'm going to need to have a look.

I'm flirting with the idea of insetting a mirror with top/side lights, since there's 7cm of space behind it where the studs aren't (from a bunch of probes with an awl anyway) - so I want to cut a hole to investigate further, and it's a good excuse to try a different blade on my new OMT toy.

I plan to treat the wood seperately both sides for a couple of applications, first one 50/50 with mineral oil; then attach the boards to the 4 backing sections, sand to smooth the edges where the wobble goes in opposite directions, then perhaps another 2 treatments with danish oil in-place.

...if I have to go over it with brad nails here and there to sort out a wobbly board as time passes... no great drama, as long as it doesn't go off like a fir cone :)
 
MattRoberts":tuffrms0 said:
If you're going rustic, make the fixings a feature.
https://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws ... ack/p84270

That would look good but methinks that with the wood at 3mm it may well split!

OP, if you want to re-saw a pallet, get yourself some of these :wink: Nearly 6ft long and made up of 6x2's and bl00dy heavy!
IMG_3192.JPG


OWK :eek:ccasion5:
 

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