Replacement irons for a Stanley #112 scraper?

[sjalloq]

I picked up a #112 recently and it came with the toothed plane but I'd like to pick up the standard scraper blade for it. Does anyone have any experience with different blades? Old vs. new for example. Should I just grab any old one from eBay or does the performance of the plane differ much with blade choice?

Thanks, Shareef.

 

[Argus]

This is an excellent tool, but often found minus its Stanley blade.

As a 112 owner and user myself, you have a number of options:

1 - Find a Stanley original in good order. Great for authenticity, but hard to get and potentially expensive.

2 - Find a replacement: They are still made. Kunz make an identical version of the 112, and the blade is interchangeable. Not sure if Ray Iles makes them , but, Dieter Schmid in Germany sell the Ron Hock version. Factor in the Euro conversion rate, any penalties in Euro-conversion on your plastic (read the small print, some do some don't) and delivery costs.
http://www.fine-tools.com/eisen.html
The German suppliers are very good to deal with and deliver quickly. According to their information, the Hock blade comes in at 3/32" thick; I think that the original Stanley was 1/16".

3 - Use another type of blade: The Veritas version has a 1/16" thick blade that will fit quite well, even if it is a bit shorter and doesn't give much play for sharpening over time. The Lie-Nielsen equivalent blade is too thick at over 1/8" and will not fit in the throat.

4 - Fit an ordinary hand scraper blade: They do work, if a bit on the flimsy side due to their inherent thinness, but you have to use them end-on......... or cut up an old saw blade.

Finally the dimensions that you need are: 2 3/4" wide x 1/16" thick and around 4 1/2" to 5" in length. Taken from my own Kunz blade that burnishes and works quite well, despite the image they have of poor quality.

Hope that this helps.

 

[Cheshirechappie]

It seems that Derek Cohen has done a bit of experimenting with blades in the Stanley 112 - http://www.inthewoodshop.com/WoodworkTe ... lades.html - and in short, he concludes that thinner blades work, but screech a lot, and that the current Lie-Nielsen 112 blade fits and works well.

From somewhere - and I can't remember where - I seem to recall advice to use the thicker blade, sharpened like a smoothing plane iron with a very slight camber and the corners dubbed off, and no hook burnished on. The thicker blades are not flexible enough to take a camber by bending them as with the likes of the Stanley 80 or a card scraper (and the 112 isn't designed to bend the blades anyway), so you have to sharpen the camber in. If you don't, they tend to be very difficult to use, because they either have no depth of cut or have too much depth of cut and chatter - finding the happy medium is far easier with a lightly cambered blade, apparently. I'm not sure what the best sharpening angle is, though; there may be scope for a bit of experimenting to find the happy medium between edge life and 'sharpness'. I think Derek mentions something about this, but I also suspect that the ideal angle for each individual blade depends a bit on how hard that particular blade is.

 

[Racers]

I do 45 deg cambered bevel on my 3mm thick O1 steel blade, with no hook as it's to hard take a hook, it just makes cracking noises if you try!
Mine isn't a Stanley I knocked it up my self.



Pete

 

[sjalloq]

Thanks all.

I've bought from Fine Tools before so am happy to look around. Think I'll go for a modern blade but will read Derek's blog later.

 

[Beau]

I have tried a couple of blades in my Lie Nielsen 112. The original thick one and a thinner one but always end up using the thicker blade in spite of the extra time it takes to sharpen. I like to grind and hone near 45 degrees and turn the burr at 15 degrees to take lovely shavings on most hardwoods. Sharpened with a slight camber

 

[sjalloq]

Thanks, I have a set of cabinet scrapers but they have seen very little use and I haven't ever used a burnisher so lots to learn.

Incidentally, when inserting the blade, how do you adjust for how far the blade sticks out? Or do you just set it up so that the blade is touching a flat surface with the plane resting in place? I just tried to watch the Lie Nielsen video about setting it up but Deneb speaks so slowly I was losing the will to live mid-sentence.

 

[Beau]

"touching a flat surface with the plane resting in place" This then tinker if need be.

 

[David C]

I like the Hock blade very much. Just about doubles the effectiveness of the tool.

Precise instructions in my 6th DVD, "Five Topics".

There are at least 6 things to get more or less right!

Or my second book, if you can get a second hand copy on Amazon......

Best wishes,

David Charlesworth