Hi,
I have no idea if this is the right forum to post this. If not, I apologize, plase moderators move it anywhere you see fit.
I'm in the process of completely overhauling/repairing my old and pretty much battered WM 625 E05, early 70's vintage, aluminium risers, made in Ireland.
I don't want to make a showroom piece of it, this has been a working "tool" for over 40 years and I intend it to remain so. I will only be woorking the "mechanical" side of side of the thing - eliminate plays, compensate for wear where possible, etc., so I can again get the most of it. No painting over. I need a bit of advice on finishing the tops.
I can hear someone ask "why bother?". Well, that Workmate is what I have for working on, and it fits well in my very small workspace. I don't care for the more recent versions - they are properly rubbish - and second-hand WMs of this vintage are hard to come by around here, with outrageous asking prices - just recently I saw what seemed to be a 626 E04 for sale, apparently in good working condition but showing much rust on the steel parts, for 100 euros! :shock:
Back to the works.
The tops are, or at least look very much like, 7/8" Baltic birch. This is consistent with what Landis states in his book.
I am now working on the movable top - planing the edges square, re-shaping the v-groove, removing undesired "additions" (old dry varnish, dry glue patches...), etc.
I intend to give the sides and bottom some coats of Danish oil after re-shaping. That should be enough.
It's the upper side finish I am not sure about. Originally it had a brownish protective coat of some kind. Some sort of rather tough and hard-wearing matte varnish is my guess, but I may be (probably am) wrong. Most of it remains, but there are places where it has been severely damaged (see picture).
Anyway, as I said, this protective coat is very hard-wearing and is water resistant, and I would like as much as possible to replicate its qualities with a compatible finish.
I would prefer this protective coat not to be too thick, and certainly not shiny or slippery. I am leaning towards a polyurethane spray varnish, but don't know if it would be up to the task (this, of course, assuming it is compatible with the original remaining finish)
I never worked with Baltic birch, so don't have any idea about its peculiarities or finish. May I ask for suggestions, please?
Thanks
G.
I have no idea if this is the right forum to post this. If not, I apologize, plase moderators move it anywhere you see fit.
I'm in the process of completely overhauling/repairing my old and pretty much battered WM 625 E05, early 70's vintage, aluminium risers, made in Ireland.
I don't want to make a showroom piece of it, this has been a working "tool" for over 40 years and I intend it to remain so. I will only be woorking the "mechanical" side of side of the thing - eliminate plays, compensate for wear where possible, etc., so I can again get the most of it. No painting over. I need a bit of advice on finishing the tops.
I can hear someone ask "why bother?". Well, that Workmate is what I have for working on, and it fits well in my very small workspace. I don't care for the more recent versions - they are properly rubbish - and second-hand WMs of this vintage are hard to come by around here, with outrageous asking prices - just recently I saw what seemed to be a 626 E04 for sale, apparently in good working condition but showing much rust on the steel parts, for 100 euros! :shock:
Back to the works.
The tops are, or at least look very much like, 7/8" Baltic birch. This is consistent with what Landis states in his book.
I am now working on the movable top - planing the edges square, re-shaping the v-groove, removing undesired "additions" (old dry varnish, dry glue patches...), etc.
I intend to give the sides and bottom some coats of Danish oil after re-shaping. That should be enough.
It's the upper side finish I am not sure about. Originally it had a brownish protective coat of some kind. Some sort of rather tough and hard-wearing matte varnish is my guess, but I may be (probably am) wrong. Most of it remains, but there are places where it has been severely damaged (see picture).
Anyway, as I said, this protective coat is very hard-wearing and is water resistant, and I would like as much as possible to replicate its qualities with a compatible finish.
I would prefer this protective coat not to be too thick, and certainly not shiny or slippery. I am leaning towards a polyurethane spray varnish, but don't know if it would be up to the task (this, of course, assuming it is compatible with the original remaining finish)
I never worked with Baltic birch, so don't have any idea about its peculiarities or finish. May I ask for suggestions, please?
Thanks
G.
