Removing Everbuild 502 (resin based) glue...

[tangledfeet]

Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to remove dried and set Everbuild 502, a resin based wood adhesive, from the serations on the rails of my Bessey clamps..? I don't want to use anything abrasive as don't want to damage the serrations.

Just wondering if there's anything that anyone knows of that would soften it or even soften it.

It was a bit of a messy glue up...

Cheers!

 

[Chrispy]

Spray gun cleaner or cellulose thinner I find will soften it enough to peel off.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Isopropyl might be worth a go - it softens hot melt.

 

[ED65]

PVAs are thermoplastic. Heat the bar and you should be able to get the glue to pop right off.

Pouring boiling water over it or use a heat gun if you want to do it quickly, but even heating with hair dryers can do the trick.

 

[tangledfeet]

Thanks for all the suggestions!

PVAs are thermoplastic. Heat the bar and you should be able to get the glue to pop right off.

Pouring boiling water over it or use a heat gun if you want to do it quickly, but even heating with hair dryers can do the trick.

Alas this isn't PVA glue - this one is resin based. Tried the hot air gun on it to no avail.

I found some thinners, albeit xylene, and it didn't do owt. Ditto WD40, IPA and unicorn tears.

I think I shall just resort to licking them clean over a period of time.... (homer)

 

[memzey]

Brass brush and elbow grease? Not a particularly fun job though.

 

[ED65]

Alas this isn't PVA glue - this one is resin based.

PVA is a resin 8) The resin descriptor is their way of referring to "aliphatic resin" as some other manufacturers use. 502 is a creamy white liquid right? All white woodworking glues like this are some form of PVA, yellow ones too (they're just dyed).

I am confused by heat not working though, I've never had it fail to help loosen dried drips of glue, including Titebond II or III. Works great for epoxy too, actually better.

Try getting it hotter for longer. It needs to get above hand-hot, so north of about 70-80°C depending on how tough your skin is.

 

[tangledfeet]

Alas this isn't PVA glue - this one is resin based.

PVA is a resin 8) The resin descriptor is their way of referring to "aliphatic resin" as some other manufacturers use. 502 is a creamy white liquid right? All white woodworking glues like this are some form of PVA, yellow ones too (they're just dyed).

I am confused by heat not working though, I've never had it fail to help loosen dried drips of glue, including Titebond II or III. Works great for epoxy too, actually better.

Try getting it hotter for longer. It needs to get above hand-hot, so north of about 70-80°C depending on how tough your skin is.

Ah, you learn something every day!

I'll give the heat another go - boiling water this time, try and find a container they can soak in for a bit.

Cheers!