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Refinishing Oak Worktops?

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stuartpaul

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Need to spruce up worktops that have previously been finished with danish oil.

I've tended to move away from danish to osmo and wondering if anyone has any experience using osmo over danish? Obviously a rub down first but worried it might not 'go off' properly over a previous finish.

Would it have to be their worktop oil or would polyx be OK?

Thanks
 

LancsRick

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They advertise the worktop oil as being harder wearing, but I've never done a comparison myself.
 

stuartpaul

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Thanks, - not so worried about the food safe aspect (we don't prepare food directly on the worktops) more the will it work on top of danish oil?

Probably worth contacting osmo direct.
 

Jacob

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phil.p":295hgiff said:
............... Having looked it up it is but "Old paints
and lacquers must be completely removed."......
They all say that to cover themselves against bodged jobs. But it probably isn't true about many combinations - I'd ignore it - perhaps a degreasing wash down with sugar soap first..
e.g. against the advice I've done a lot of linseed oil paint over flaky deteriorated modern paints and it sticks like sh.. to a blanket, no prob.
 

stuartpaul

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Thanks Phil, - I missed that when I was looking earlier.

Interestingly Osmo's emailed response says a light sand should be sufficient but also attached the data sheet!

Think I'll try a small area first and see how it goes. Hopefully the top oil can also be used as a 'general' finish as well as they'll be loads left?
 

Phil Pascoe

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That's a good idea - if it takes days to dry at least you'll know. I don't know how successful it would be as a finish on other things - normally hard wax oils are wiped off, but top oil isn't so might not finish well. One way of finding out. :D
 

manglitter

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When I fitted my kitchen with oak worktops I finished them with a couple of coats of Danish, allowed to dry for a couple of days then three coats of osmo polyx.

That was a year ago and they are still looking fantastic! No flaking, peeling, spontaneous combustion, random likenesses of jesus or portals to hell...


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sammy.se

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manglitter":37o27t9n said:
When I fitted my kitchen with oak worktops I finished them with a couple of coats of Danish, allowed to dry for a couple of days then three coats of osmo polyx.

That was a year ago and they are still looking fantastic! No flaking, peeling, spontaneous combustion, random likenesses of jesus or portals to hell...


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Hmm, looks like it reacted badly though, on the left wall?? ;-)

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Phil Pascoe

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There could possibly be a difference in performance between PolyX and Top Oil, though, one being designed to be wiped off and one not. The Top Oil coating will be thicker, so it's probably still worth trying a small bit first.
 

stuartpaul

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As I don’t currently have any topoil but do have some polyX (and know I need some more) then I’ll be trying the polyX first.

If it works for you it’s going to work for me! I will give it a decent rub down first although not much more than 240.
 

manglitter

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stuartpaul":21z5nw7v said:
As I don’t currently have any topoil but do have some polyX (and know I need some more) then I’ll be trying the polyX first.

If it works for you it’s going to work for me! I will give it a decent rub down first although not much more than 240.
I think I just sanded mine to 180 grit.

The polyx is great, it shrugs off everything that has been thrown at it, and there are no issues with black mould/staining near the sink that you can get if just finished with oil [GRINNING FACE WITH SMILING EYES]

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stuartpaul

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Thanks for that, good to know it’s worth doing.

I’ll go to 240 simply because I have some mirka discs.
 
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