Record Rebate / Rabbet Plane 078 & 778 Instructions

[Pabs]

Having just picked one of these up at auction I have no clue how to use it properly. Luckily it came with a tatty box and instructions so I'll put them here in case someone needs them for reference in the future.

 

[Orraloon]

Plane looks in great condition. Dont think its seen a lot of use.
Regards
John

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I doubt it's seen any.

 

[thetyreman]

useful tool imo, I used one today for the rebates on a picture frame, beats a screaming router imo.

 

[Richie555]

I have one of these too, however I’m looking for a fence arm for it.

 

[Homeless Squirrel]

I have one of these too, however I’m looking for a fence arm for it.

Check on ebay come up from time to time plus there is a seller 3D making them.

 

[Jacob]

They are easy to use like an ordinary rebate plane without the fence, depth stop, nicker etc. In fact a good way to get used to it.
The add-ons can make it more difficult and you don't need them every time - they aren't at all essential.

 

[richnfamous]

the 78 used to be very common - a great rebate plane. I find the most important part of using one (apart from starting the cut on the far end of the wood) is to make sure the vertical surface is always in full contact with the workpiece. once you get 'steps' on the vertical part of the rebate, it can be tricky

 

[richnfamous]

I have one of these too, however I’m looking for a fence arm for it.

I'll have a rummage in my bits box: I'm pretty sure I've got one, and if so, you can have it for the cost of postage

 

[Jacob]

the 78 used to be very common - a great rebate plane. I find the most important part of using one (apart from starting the cut on the far end of the wood) is to make sure the vertical surface is always in full contact with the workpiece. once you get 'steps' on the vertical part of the rebate, it can be tricky

Form the rebate slightly away from the line then take the last passes from the wall with the plane on its side, to take it back to the line and remove steps etc. It's quicker and easier than trying to cut both faces perfectly together.
This is why the fence, nicker and depth stop are a bit redundant on the 78 and variants. They actually get in the way and it's easier to plane to gauge marks in the old fashioned way.

 

[thetyreman]

I always use a plough plane first as well before using the rebate plane, pretty much guarantees that you will have a dead square rebate, recently I've been using a sticking board as well, it's the easiest way to do it without needing any fancy end vices e.t.c dead simple.

 

[Richie555]

I'll have a rummage in my bits box: I'm pretty sure I've got one, and if so, you can have it for the cost of postage

That`s very kind of you.

 

[richnfamous]

Form the rebate slightly away from the line then take the last passes from the wall with the plane on its side, to take it back to the line and remove steps etc. It's quicker and easier than trying to cut both faces perfectly together.
This is why the fence, nicker and depth stop are a bit redundant on the 78 and variants. They actually get in the way and it's easier to plane to gauge marks in the old fashioned way.

that approach can be problematic with tricky grain unless your rebate plane works on both sides. I try to get it right first time but usually use a shoulder plane to clean the vertical surface

 

[Trafalgar]

If you push the fence too hard into the work, it'll creep a little. Make sure the iron is sharp. If you scuff the fence rods/arms with sandpaper it'll help keep creeping to a minimum. Don't oil the rods/arms.

You may end up going against the grain on occasion. Plan on using a regular shoulder plane to tidy up. In this instance, you'll want to stop a little short of your depth line (always mark the joint!), and make passes with a shoulder plane to finish to the line. I have the Woden version of the 778. I like it because it has a wheel cutter instead of the cloverleaf cutter for cross-grain work.