Record BS350S 14" Bandsaw - Can it take smaller blades??

[Steve Maskery]

Your'e a STAR!

[simper]
Aw, shucks
[/simper]

 

[nibeht]

Hi,

I am a total novice so would appreciate any feedback you may have on this.
After seeing your posts on here I just wanted to get your feedback on the smaller blades use with a BS400.
I spoke with Record Power and they came back with:-

Quote
It is not advisable to put smaller widths on the machine as the blade will cut in to the tyres damaging them and also they will be too small to be set correctly against the guides.
Unquote

I have already sent off for the Work Shops Essentials 5 DVD as I wanted to look at the "discs" setup you guys had discussed to get around the "guides" part but after Record Power stating the above about "cutting into the tyres" I wanted to get some feed back from your experiences etc.

I am initially looking at a hobby of doing Band Saw boxes and also for cutting out alpha\numeric signs and just want to ensure I don't get a BS400 for example and it can't handle the smaller blades for the tighter radiuses.

Many thanks for any advice/help you can give me.

Graham

 

[Steve Maskery]

Hi Graham
That is the standard response and yes, the risk of damaging the tyres is there. But. A narrow blade does not need as much tension as a wide one does and with a "soft" guide like I use then there is no risk of damage to either the blade or the guides.

I have a Sheppach and I bet they would give the same advice. But, as you will see, I successfully use a blade down to 1/16" with no problems.

Enjoy your DVD.

Steve

 

[nicguthrie]

If the set on the teeth is not excessive, the blade is not way over-tensioned, nor left loose to "slip" on the drive wheel, I can't see how it would cut in to the wheels.
A normal 1/4" blade already runs with the teeth firmly placed on the rubber coating of the wheel without trouble, and the one they supply with the 350s has a very pronounced set to it. (the set is the amount each tooth splays out to the side from the center of the blade)
I suspect Record Power are "playing it safe" with that reply, as they don't want held responsible for any trouble from using blades smaller than the specification for the machine.

Nic.

 

[nibeht]

Hi Steve and Nic

Thank you both very much for the information and advice. I appreciate your coming back on these queries
and sorting out my confusion.

I had researched the Band saw and then suddenly thought I'd have to start again with Scroll Saws instead but
with your advice it looks as though I will be going full ahead with the Band Saw. Just have to make sure I
read up on tensioning

Thanks again,
Graham

 

[Steve Maskery]

I have seen bandsaw tyres that have been cut into, so it can happen. But mine are pretty much as pristine now as they were when they were new.
Nic is right, I think, RP are just playing it safe to avoid getting into unnecessary difficulties.

 

[nibeht]

HI Steve,

Thanks for that. Unfortunately as I am new to the forum it doesn't let me send\reply PMs at the moment.
You are quite right Steve I am total novice to Bandsaw (wood work too) and I ordered the initial DVD as wanted to check out the bits you mentioned about the side blade supports via discs etc. and for the initial cost it was far cheaper than buying the BS400 and then realising I had goofed... Once I have got your first DVD and pulled the trigger on the Bandsaw I will definitely be coming back for more DVDs to help me both progress and I am sure avoid some pitfalls

Thanks also to Alexam for input and advice as well. I had seen your post about the Carter Stabilizer guide and must admit think this may well be addition in the near future.


Cheers
Graham

 

[Alexam]

Graham, if you buy the bandsaw at a show, then you will almost certainly get discount, so watch out for when they are to take advantage. Usually free delivery also.

 

[PeteG]

I wish I could get my 1/8" blade to stay on my BS350S! Spent two days last month without success, it either kept coming off the back of the top wheel,
or the blade would sit right on the egde of the bottom wheel, not on the rubber, but the back of the blade up against the rubber. I watched the "Carter"
video several times but couldn't get the little pipper to stay put.

 

[nibeht]

Thanks Alex will take a look to see if anything happening soonish and then the race starts and we will see if my patience wins or loses

 

[Alexam]

PeteG ........ It's all to do with he upper blade variation (blade tracking knob). Assuming the blade tension is correct ......... Unplug and start again with upper and lower guides and bearings well away from the blade and the blade centred with teeth gullet in the centre of the upper wheel. Turn the wheel by hand several times (3-4 revs) and see if the blade moves forward or back on the upper wheel. If you haven't done so already, mark the position of the blade tracking knob with a mark on the wheel and on the casing (sticky label helps). Depending on which way the blade moves, forward or back, the Blade tracking knob will move the blade backwards if turned clockwise, or visa-veras.

The adjustment is small and a quarter turn will move the blade quite a bit, so be careful, but turn the wheels several times with each adjustment of the tracking knob.

When you feel that the blade is staying in the right place - without moving the guides, close up, plug in and run the machine under power. Then stop and see if the blade has moved again. If it has, then repeat the first section again and run under power again until the blade stays centralised with gullett in the centre of the top wheel. ONLY THEN, when the blade no longer moves forward or back, do you move the guides and rear bearings into position. Mark the position of the blade tracking knob for future reference.

It may take you half an hour to do this correctly and you need to do it whenever you change blades, but you should then be OK.

Let me know how you get on.

Alex

 

[PeteG]

Sounds good Alex, thank you Once I've finnished re-organising the shed I'll have another go, I do need to crack it!

 

[woodpig]

On my BS300E the tracking can also effect the tension on the blade. In order to fit a new blade easily I have to back off the tension and tip the wheel towards me using the tracking knob. Once the blade is fitted I alter the tracking to get the blade running right. I then tension the Blade checking that it hasn't altered the tracking. Once it's tight and tracking right I adjust the bearings. After use I always back off the tension.

 

[PeteG]

On my BS300E the tracking can also effect the tension on the blade. In order to fit a new blade easily I have to back off the tension and tip the wheel towards me using the tracking knob. Once the blade is fitted I alter the tracking to get the blade running right. I then tension the Blade checking that it hasn't altered the tracking. Once it's tight and tracking right I adjust the bearings. After use I always back off the tension.

I think I suffer the same Woodpig, and tensioning the blade isn't great with the supplied knob. I removed the tensioning gauge as it's completely useless, trying to get enough tension on a blade a while back,
I bent the pin the gauge sits on, straightened it up and then removed the gauge. Those guides you have made look first class! I don't know if the side wheels on the upper bearing guide are supposed to be parallel to the blade but mine have always been at an angle to the blade.
I'd like to replace the top and bottom guides at some point, just spoke to a nice chap at Bedford Saw & Tool about a complete kit, waiting for a call back. http://www.bedfordsaw.co.uk/complete-blade-guide-conversion-kit-for-record-power-rsbs12

 

[woodpig]

I've replaced both the tensioning knob and tracking knob with crank handles on mine and it's made it very much quicker and easier to adjust things. You don't need to be a machinist to do this mod. All you need are some M8 female crank handles and M8 threaded rod. Something like this if you can fix the rod.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/80mm-Ripple-Whe ... B00880DJE8

Those bearings you linked to look great, and a good price too!

I read somewhere that the top bearings do 80% of the work so I wasn't in a hurry to replace the bottom guides but I've done it now whilst I was in the mood!

 

[PeteG]

I've replaced both the tensioning knob and tracking knob with crank handles on mine and it's made it very much quicker and easier to adjust things. You don't need to be a machinist to do this mod. All you need are some M8 female crank handles and M8 threaded rod. Something like this if you can fix the rod.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/80mm-Ripple-Whe ... B00880DJE8

Those bearings you linked to look great, and a good price too!

I read somewhere that the top bearings do 80% of the work so I wasn't in a hurry to replace the bottom guides but I've done it now whilst I was in the mood!

Thank you for the link Woodpig. Tom has just called back from Bedford and sadly they don't do them for the BS350, but he's going see if he can find an alternative.

 

[Alexam]

PeteG ....I'd like to replace the top and bottom guides at some point, just spoke to a nice chap at Bedford Saw & Tool about a complete kit, waiting for a call back. http://www.bedfordsaw.co.uk/complete-bl ... wer-rsbs12 ....... presumably they make the guides for other models of the Record range then?

 

[PeteG]

Hello Alex. I don't think they make the guides, as Tom said they were waiting for new sample kits to arrive. My hearing isn't great and I don't always like to ask folk to keep repeating themselves.
I'm sure he did say that most of the guides arfe for older machines, but I could have got the wrong end of the stick. Worth a call though, he was very helpful.

 

[woodpig]

Looks like they are using a custom L shaped extrusion for the guide blocks? Should be pretty easy to make guides to fit other bandsaws in the Record range.

 

[luckypip]

Hi
I realise that this is an old thread, but I would really like to know if these answers to use an 1/8 th inch blade are still valid with a new Record 350 Sabre bandsaw
Also if any forum members have any other updates on this mod ?
Many thanks