radial stability of logs

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marcros

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I have made a few pepper mills over the last year and have enjoyed doing so. I have been using bought in 3" blanks, but the ones that I can buy at reasonable cost are limited in species- beech, ash, oak, elm etc. I presume that these are big trees, sliced into 3" boards, and then sliced up into blanks, because it is all heartwood and there is no pith.

The grinders are effectively a 3" cylinder with a 1" hole through the centre into endgrain, (+a bit of shaping and a couple of larger holes at each end.)

I want to invest in doing some in 2, 3, 4 years time, by laying down some blanks to dry. Would there be any issue in blanks being from slightly oversized logs, say 4-6" in diameter rather than from the bigger trees that I have been using? I could turn them to 3 1/2-4" round and if necessary drill the pith out to avoid splitting- either to the full 1" diameter, or to say 1/2". When they are dry, I accept that I would need to re-round them.

I am sorry, it may be a basic question, but I don't know much about wood stability for turning.
 
Why not leave the 4 -6" dia logs as logs. Seal the ends and leave to dry out.
I have stored sycamore logs vertically on a concrete floor with just the top covered/sealed and not the bottom and they have not split.

Interesting to see what others suggest

Brian
 
Or split the logs roughly a bit oversized. There isn't really much point in using a piece with the pith running through it as besides any problems with distortion the grain pattern on the finished piece will be virtually non existent.
 
Ok, what am I missing? To make a pepper mill you create a tube. If you use a branch you will invariably remove the pith with the hollowing. If you bore out the a green branch undersize it will probably warp but not split ... & dry quicker.

Making pepper mills is one of the few occasions where I might buy a suitable blank. If I'm going to spend £6 or £7 on the mechanism another few pounds is probably a good investment in both time saving & lack of problems.
 
that was the question- could I use branch wood, or would it be a waste of time because it would split or warp excessively. I note what Phil says about boring grain patterns, and what you say about the warping, so it seems that all in all it is a waste of time.

I don't mind buying a few blanks in, but if I make these as gifts, they are heading towards £25-30 for mechanisms and blanks plus a couple of hours labour which quickly gets a bit steep, particularly when the blanks that I can get at £5-7 are the usual beech, oak, ash, elm. To sell the same grinders through a gallery or similar, the gallery is going to have to price them at £100+. I am trying to look at options to reduce the cost of materials, and the blank is the one with the most potential. The mechanism seems to be a similar price everywhere.
 
I think you have overpriced your wood somewhat unless you are buying exotic species. From memory, they are 75mm square by whatever length needed to suit the mechanism.

If you get your branches for free, you have nothing but time to lose if you attempt it & it goes wrong. I might well try it myself. Pity you weren't a bit closer or you could have come & had a rummage through my wood pile.

Try finding spalted English timbers to glam up the plainer species. Try a straight taper on plainer woods rather than fancy shapes ie widest part is the ends tapering to the joint.
 
I think that is where I got the last lot from Phil. I used that price in my quick calculation- £7.50 x 2 for the mechanisms, and the home of wood prices of £30/6 for the blanks.

I contacted another mill the other day who sells blanks. They quoted me £6 a foot, which is about the same. I dont know what species they have yet, but it will be natives.
 
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