Quick query - Diamond stone credit cards...

[Tasky]

Heya,

In my efforts to just get started on woodworking, I'm picking up a fair bit of second hand kit cheap. Likely it will need sharpening and I will get some nice top end 3x8 stones once I have the scratch.

In the meantime I just need something good enough, but cheap enough to do the basics until after Christmas - Planes, chisels, knives and maybe a few other bladed edges (both woodworking and other pursuits).
I know this is a false economy, not a long term solution, etc, buuuuuuuut...

I was wondering if a 3-set (250, 600, 1200) of those EZE Lap credit card diamond stones fixed to a hook board would work well enough as an interim solution for at least a few goes on a basic set of tools?

Yay? Nay? No way Jose?

Cheers,
Tasky.

 

[custard]

Abrasive paper on an off-cut of float glass or MDF, it's not the cheapest sharpening solution on a long term basis, but in terms of minimising initial outlay it's a dirt cheap way of getting a good range of grits.

 

[Glynne]

I think the clue is in the name - Credit Card.
You will struggle with the small size of these, I only use mine for things like router bits.
If you want a cheap solution (interim or not) then go for abrasive paper on a flat surface (MDF / glass plate) and see how you go.
A lot of people will use the scary sharp method which is essentially what I've suggested above - abrasive (albeit a more expensive one) on a flat surface (float glass).

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sandpaper-Asso ... +dry+paper would get you off to a start (not a recommendation). As above, card sized stones will be too small.

 

[D_W]

Are you using a guide to sharpen? Just curious, because it will affect my answer.

 

[Ttrees]

If you want stones to work on the bevel side of plane and chisel irons,
the cheapest hones are the DMD (not DMT quality stuff)
I bought a course and a 1000 grit stone for a fiver on the bay.

A cheaper solution might be finding some old cruddy oilstones for next to nothing, get to know what they look like.
You may choose to flatten them.
You might choose to do the backs of your iron and the cap iron/chipbreaker on the plate and use the
stone on the bevel, if you dont have the oilstone dead flat for these operations.
Get either float glass, not plate glass (it has a green tinge), broken or chipped granite stove base
or other ceramic tiles.
wet and dry paper will stick down with water by suction...break the back of the paper on a corner.

Tom

 

[bugbear]

Abrasive paper on an off-cut of float glass or MDF, it's not the cheapest sharpening solution on a long term basis, but in terms of minimising initial outlay it's a dirt cheap way of getting a good range of grits.

Agree.

But for a beginner, it's almost essential to use a jog with this set up - otherwise a single "high" stroke will cut and ruin the paper.

BugBear

 

[custard]

Abrasive paper on an off-cut of float glass or MDF, it's not the cheapest sharpening solution on a long term basis, but in terms of minimising initial outlay it's a dirt cheap way of getting a good range of grits.

Agree.

But for a beginner, it's almost essential to use a jog with this set up - otherwise a single "high" stroke will cut and ruin the paper.

BugBear

Ah, very true, I'd forgotten that.

Mind you, a used Eclipse honing jig is what, £5? And for a beginner it's an excellent way of taking a couple of jumps up the learning curve. Actually, if you've got a lot of metal to remove, an Eclipse jig is worthwhile no matter how experienced you are.

 

[bugbear]

Mind you, a used Eclipse honing jig is what, £5?

At local car boots, 20p if you're very patient, but typically 1-2 quid.

The older ones are more nicely made, which doesn't matter at all in use, but I like nice things (and at 20p, I can afford them!)

BugBear

 

[Tasky]

Cheers guys.
I kinda suspected as much, but thought I'd ask aforehand anyways... you never know. Might get some later, for things like small tools and router bits, but idea scrapped for now.
Plan B was indeed the sandpapers option, so I'll give that a go. I'll probably want a couple packs of it at some point, anyways.

Are you using a guide to sharpen? Just curious, because it will affect my answer.

I wasn't planning to use one. I feel I ought to try without first, at least until I decide whether I prefer the simpler methods or end up subscribing to the multiple micro-bevel schools of thought... But if they're that cheap, then I could probably stretch to one!

 

[worn thumbs]

A few years ago I picked up a set of three 8X2 diamond plates for a fiver in our local diy bargain shop.Not great but no complaints about the value.My more particular sharpening is done with other stones,but when I needed to remove the hollowing from the sole of my block plane I had the ideal stone available.

 

[whatknot]

Toolstation do an oilstone in box for £4.15
Honing guide £6.53

Screwfix do an oilstone (no box) for £4.99
Honing guide £4.99

 

[D_W]

A reasonable quality 8x2 india stone is where i'd start then. One in combination should be about 20 quid. Then you need something finer to follow it, but that can be any number of things.

If you're going after this freehand, there's little you need to have aside from those two. The india stone can do the work, and something like a boot sale charn (or sandpaper that's fine until you find that) can be used right near the edge.

I made a video last year, but I think I erased it, showing that with a little bit of time and some experimentation, I could use a stone that came from the dollar store and a piece of MDF with autosol on it to sever a hanging hair with a chrome vanadium marples paring chisel. I would recommend a $20 norton combo over the $1 stone - the really cheap stones are not pre-filled and they shed stray particles.

The initial stages with an india stone are a bit rough (they are aggressive), but pretty soon they settle into something nice, and they are tougher than mother theresa's scowl (unless you drop them, but I doubt mo. theresa would've taken many drops before breaking, either).

 

[ED65]

In the meantime I just need something good enough, but cheap enough to do the basics until after Christmas - Planes, chisels, knives and maybe a few other bladed edges (both woodworking and other pursuits).

There's no need to go with a good-enough-for now stopgap or to think of diamond plates as an interim solution. So diamond plates, yes. Credit-card size, no.

For many now diamond plates have become the sharpening surface for any number of reasons including the versatility of working well dry or with oily/watery liquids as you prefer. They will handle any steel no matter how hard, they're reasonably forgiving of heavy pressure (which waterstones and papers aren't) and there's almost no maintenance. And some of the best news for those on a very tight budget is they're among the cheapest of systems going in if you buy cannily, i.e. don't get suckered into brand names like EZE-Lap!

The plates from China – via Aliexpress or ebay sellers with free international shipping – can be so inexpensive they work out cheaper than quality abrasive papers. Let that sink in for a bit. These are plates that might last you 5-10 years, but they cost less than a pack of posh wet 'n' dry!

...250, 600, 1200...

That's a great progression by the way, I think you'd get on fine with that. Since you have the choice buying individually you could go much coarser on the low end without any problems, so if you want your lowest grit surface to be extra-aggressive consider getting a 100 maybe. This will allow you to very readily flatten backs (or sort out pitting) and re-shape primary bevels by hand should you be of a mind to do so.

 

[Bm101]

ultex-diamond-stones-t100153.html (hammer)

 

[Ttrees]

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/ultex-diamond-stones-t100153.html (hammer)

+1 on that advice, a medium and fine one would be my preference
I would get the cheapo 400Grit dmd for bevels, job done.

There was an offer on the Ultex stones about a month ago, pity you didn't ask then

 

[ED65]

Better thread for the man on a budget: really-cheap-diamond-stones-t103588.htm

 

[nabs]

I have only recently been through the process you are embarking on Tasky and if I were starting again I would follow the advice to get a double sided norton india stone. just as effective but less annoying than sandpaper and only a few pounds more expensive. Either will work, mind you.

Although I may be flamed for saying this by some quarters, I would also use a cheap guide (e.g the aforementioned eclipse guide) for the first few attempts until I got the hang of it.

for what its worth, after much experimentation (including the above configurations), I ended up using a coarse diamond stone + a miscellaneous slate oil stone from ebay. I don't recommend you start there as the diamond stone is expensive and you might prefer some other arrangement. You'll have to try a few things to find out!

PS don't forget to make a strop - it makes a big difference and costs next to nothing to make one (stick a bit of leather on a bit of wood). A top tip is to make a big one (my first one was copied from Paul Sellers but my newer one is twice the size and much more convenient).

PPS the norton set-up is good for 'normal' steel, which is what you will almost certainly be getting if you are getting second-hand stuff, but might not be up to posh new steels like A2 which are harder.

 

[MrTeroo]

+1 for Ultex

https://www.its.co.uk/pd/210022-Ult...Sided-Diamond-Sharpening-Stone-_ULT210022.htm

If you can wait, ITS offer these at £10 each from time to time

 

[Tasky]

Cheers again!

Yeah, I'd noticed those ITS prices.
And leather is NOT a problem for me, thanks to some previous hobbies - My only difficulty there is choosing which colour!!