I can't seem to get the bandsaw set-up right. I did all the things that were suggested in the Alex Snodgrass-video. I also checked and adjusted the table angle as suggested by
@Smike . It seems to be less "wobbly" when cutting, but it still "runs away", or rather, towards the fence. And quite a bit so!
With small pieces (some 5cm) rather firmly pressed to the wood guider, it results in a hollow cut, rather than a straight cut. With a longer piece of wood (some 30cm long, 2.5 cm thick/in height) there is a difference of 2mm with part that is cut last being thinner. (At the end of the sawing, I can actually see the saw "jump" back into its normal position after it has run towards the guide fence during the cutting).
I tried to adjust the fence alignment. As
@Farm Labourer pointed out: It needs to be aligned to what the blade cuts rather than parallel to the table centre-line. However, I find it difficult see how to correctly align it, since the blade is only a cm broad. Any advice would be welcome!
One of the things that troubles me, is that there seems to be quite a bit of variation in how the saw runs, when the back of the saw is concerned...meaning: you are supposed to set the pressure "bearing" in such a position that it júst not touches the back of the blade. Having done that, and turning the wheel by hand shows that at other parts/lengths of the blade, the backside is then 1, maybe even 2mm away from the pressure "bearing". So, there is a lot of variation, there. That seems weird, to me.
Are others experiencing that as well? Does it have to do with the blade, or with the wheels? (Or something else altogether?). (And I did smooth the back side of the blade with a small diamond file, as suggested by
@Ollie78...).
Another thing: the blade is 90 degrees with the table from the sides. But not when I place a triangle measuring tool at the back of the blade. And I cannot adjust the table to that side. Would that have a negative effect?
(I have not yet tried another blade, since I don't have one, yet).