Problem with Clifton plane-and the solution

[Philly]

Hi All,
I've been having a niggling problem when using my Clifton #7 jointer plane. I sharpen the iron, set up the plane and get to work. But the blade keep shifting side to side on a regular basis. Only a little but enough to get you frustrated. I've tightened the nut that the cap iron sits on to the perfect tension (i.e. not too tight you can't "click" the cam) but it seems to be not quite enough. I've tweaked this a few times over the last month and everything seems to be right but I still get the same problem. Then, Eureka :idea: I tightened the nut with a screw driver by a turn AFTER I clicked the cap iron on. In use this has solved the problem, although I need to use a screwdriver to remove the iron :roll:
Upon close inspection of the cap iron I see that the brass cam has not been radiused enough to allow enough tension ro be put upon the iron.
A little work with a file and all is well. Annoying to find this on a premium plane but at least I've sorted it.
Hope this is of use,
Cheers
Philly

 

[Paul Chapman]

I have three Cliftons #4.5, #6 and #7 and have never had that problem, but thanks for the tip, Philly :wink:

Paul

 

[David C]

Philly,

Well spotted, that must have taken a bit of working out.

I like to collect these plane maker's "perversions", and that is a distinctly unusual one. ( there are many, many others.....)

However we once had a lever cap where the pivot hole of the lever had been drilled in the wrong position and it undid itself, all unprovoked like.

The thing that troubles me, is the lack of quality control. A knowledgable craftsman may be able to work these things out but the novice probably never will, and is likely to give up.

David Charlesworth

 

[Paul Chapman]

It's as well to always notify the manufacturer when these problems are spotted so that they are aware of it and can make the necessary improvements to their manufacturing/quality control processes :wink:

Paul

 

[Philly]

Paul
Good idea-I might drop Clico an email.
Mr C
You collect them!!? :shock:
This has been annoying me for a long time-with hindsight it is obvious what is wrong. But I would be careful using the "knowledgable craftsman" moniker when I'm around :wink: :lol:
Thanks again,
Philly

 

[David C]

Philly,

YES

I have supervised the tuning of literally hundreds of planes, over the last 33 years or so.

Basic tuning comes down to three issues;
1, flat enough sole
2. razor sharp blade
3. properly prepared chipbreaker

However it is fascinating how many other issues will prevent a plane from working well.
Frog seating, blade support surface, adjustment issues, wrong length chipbreakers etc etc.

One of the most bizarre was the wrong length lever caps which either prevent blade out adjustment or prevent blade in adjustment!

I am planning a dvd on this subject which has given me great satisfaction, as a problem solving exercise, over the years. Getting an old plane to work really well is a very satisfying exercise.

Unfortunately many new planes also need this attention, before they will perform.

BTW There is a good plane tuning thread on the web with a disastrous mistake in the order of work. It advises doing the sole flattening and then fixing the frog. It is the frog fixing which causes the classic bumps behind the throat syndrome on Bailey type planes.

David Charlesworth

 

[Philly]

Mr C
Yes, I guess you've seen prety much most defects by now!
As to the wrong length lever caps-I always fit mine so they fit on the high point of the chipbreaker. If you slip them on and let them drop down fully they sometimes cause the problem you mentioned with blade retraction/ advancement.
Look forward to the DVD
Best regards
Philly

 

[Shady]

Interesting... My Clifton number 4 is a great plane, but on receipt the rear tote was slightly 'non-vertical' when looked at from behind - it leant to the right. Again, fixable, but it does make one wonder about quality control...

Having said which, I rate their blades as some of the nicest to use that are around. I find that they've got a really good 'feel' when sharpening, and they are great for rehabbing things like coffin bodied wooden smoothers.