Polishing compound colours

[Neil S]

Not sure where to post his really but hopefully someone in the metalwork section might know...

The poly carbonate headlight covers on the wifes car have clouded over but luckily can be polished clear again with a bit of brasso or duraglit.
So I bought a set of drill mounted polishing mops and 2 buffing compounds from amazon. I didn't know they were the dreaded silverline brand until they arrived today Ah well they were very cheap I suppose.
The back of the packet tells you a lot about the size of the mops and mandrel. It even tells you that you get red and green polishing compounds but forgets to say which one is fine and which one is medium (or coarse).
I assume once I have loaded a mop up with course compound it will be useless for the fine compound as it will be contaminated with course material.
I hope there is a common colouring 'standard' that everyone adheres to, even Silverline :roll: .

I've attached a picture of the kit I have. Does anyone know which colour is which?

Many thanks

-Neil

 

[Rorschach]

There is no industry colour standard really, or even grit size. Tripoli (nearly always brown) coarseness will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. If you want consistent results you need to go with a reliable supplier and high quality compounds which are still very cheap, especially for hobby use where a block will last a long time. I personally use Menzerna compounds. Really though it depends on what you are polishing, wood is easy because wax will bring up the shine and hide scratches, metal is more difficult and plastics are the hardest, especially if you need it transparent without distortion.

 

[novocaine]

don't use those compounds they are both going to be to aggressive for you what you want. use something like autosol followed by toothpaste (I kid you not) you also really want a rotary mop i.e. it runs on the end not on the side of the disc but it is what you've got I guess. plastic is a pickle to polish as you can't afford to get it warm, so use plenty of water too.

 

[Neil S]

Thank you for the reply. If you had to choose between red and green which would you guess was the finer? Is there a way to test or tell the difference between them?
Thanks Neil

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

 

[novocaine]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VARIOUS-SILVE ... 3641.l6368 lists out the colours for silverline polishing compounds (doesn't mean it's correct for the blocks you've got though).

VARIOUS SILVERLINE POLISHING COMPOUNDS

Silverline Red Polishing Compound

- Produces a high quality finish on gold, silver and jewellery

- Recommended for use with loose leaf mops felt wheels

Silverline Black Polishing Compound

- For first stage polishing of copper, brass, steel and stainless steel.

- For use with sisal buffing wheels

Silverline Green Polishing Compound

- For first stage polishing of soft metals and final buffing for hard metals

- Recommended for use with loose leaf mops and close stitched buffing wheels

Silverline Brown Polishing Compound

- For first stage polishing of copper, brass, aluminium and soft metals

- Recommended for use with spiral stitched buffing wheels/mops

Silverline Blue Polishing Compound

- For final stage polishing of plastics, copper, steel and most metals

- Recommended for use with loose leaf and felt buffing wheels

Silverline White Polishing Compound

- Suitable for final polishing of stainless steel and hard metals

- Recommended for use with loose leaf mops and close stitched wheels/mops

 

[Lons]

Hi Neil
I'd echo what Novocain said, you'll probably wreck the headlamps if you use that and personally I wouldn't use a mop at all, far to agressive.

As said, chrome polish, brasso etc or you can get acrylic polish which will do the job as well. Careful use of scratch remover or t-cut will do it as well but don't use solvents as if def polycarb they will attack the surface. Try on a little corner of the lamp first before going the whole hog or go to a local scrap yard and beg / borrow on knackered on to practice on.

Polycarbonate is very soft, even the types that have a "hard" coating and they scratch easily.

Bob

 

[SteveF]

i successfully used micromesh on a set of lights
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Micro-Mesh-Re ... SwDNdVwRZ3
started at 1500 finished at 12000

used them wet and took 30 minutes
dont blame me if it goes wrong
Steve

 

[Neil S]

Thanks guys I was composing my second reply while Novocaine was posting to advise not to use the silverline compounds. I might have an old bottle of tcut somewhere so I'll give that a try on a corner first. And take it slow.
Thanks again.
-Neil

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[Neil S]

I couldn't find my old bottle of TCut so I trotted off to the local Motorman to buy some more. Instead I found a polishing cream just for 'headlights and most plastics'.

Most of it was done with just a cloth but some stubborn areas needed the cloth wheel with the cream applied. Well I'd already bought them so I had to have a go. I finished the headlights last weekend and I am very pleased.

Here is the nearside light before cleaning. It's a wonder you could see anything with those lights. :?

And here is the nearside cleaned. I did the offside after and it came out just as good.

Thanks again for all the advice.

-Neil

 

[sunnybob]

I bought the 3M headlight cleaning kit about 4 years ago. Havent worked up the courage to do it yet. I think it will have to be done this year though otherwise i will need to buy new candles.

Metal polishing colours are brown = coarse,
blue = fine
green = mirror polish (stainless steel).

 

[novocaine]

if it's just a quick fix to get through an MOT (to be sorted later when time/weather allows) spray with D.E.T (insect repellent) and polish. it fills in the voids and lasts about a week.