Planing wet wood

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tnimble

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This weekend I picked up about half a m3 of beech, some poplar and some oak for £ 47 (converted from euro) which I will have to dry myself. I have stickered it under the canopy in the garden.

Anyway one of the shorter pieces had some of the bark and sapwood which was not in that good a condition. I took out the Stsnley no 6 (with straight blade) and planed it down a couple of mm.

Planing the wood (poplar) was very very hard work. I had to set the blade to extend much more than normally to take any shavings and set the frog back to have a wide open mouth. Although the shavings where still not that thick and the blade was honed to a standard 30 degrees it felt more like pushing a blade honed at 60 degrees.

After a few minutes I noticed the body of the plane was getting warm. I stopped and checked the face of the sole which was more than warm. I guess about 40 to 50 degrees celsius. :shock:

After letting the plane cool down a bit I finshed the job. I was very suppriced how the 1930s blade held its edge. I also guess that Stanley made the 6C just for this kind of situation.
 
would a slick/draw knife/adze be better for this kind of rough processing?… I don't know btw, just thought it'd be interesting to find out : )
 
milkman":14ae8i7o said:
would a slick/draw knife/adze be better for this kind of rough processing?… I don't know btw, just thought it'd be interesting to find out : )

Hmm, I don't own any of those nor have I any experience with them. But always harpy to try out something new errr... old.

I'm still bedazzled how much friction a plane sole can develop depending on the moister level.
 
Ive used poplar quite a lot ,the European type,and it can be rather spongy in texture ,giving the planing problems you mentioned.
 

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