Planers

[pike]

Hi all,

I'm just starting out and now wondering what planer to get.

My first project was an oak table, which I made with some hand tools plus a circular saw and recently bought thicknesser (DW733).

I'm looking to buy a planer but I've been put off by most of the sub £1000 ones I've considered being 6". I'm happy with the DeWalt I have for thicknessing.

I think my choice is between the Axminster 6" CT1502 and the Axminster AW106PT2. The PT offers much wider planing for £150 more. I wouldn't be using the thicknessing though.

Will the AW106PT2 plane "better" than the AW106PT2? Is that generally true of standalone planers compared to combination units?

Is there a good 8" planer between £300 - £700, or is getting a PT and not using the thicknessing my best option?

Thanks,
Piker

 

[Digit]

Can't help you with info on any of the planers you listed, I've got a Wadkin, but unless space is a major consideration, I would stay away from PTs!
2 separate machines I find are much more flexible and on most non-pro PTs you have to lift a table to fit an extractor. A pain!

Roy.

 

[Anonymous]

or is getting a PT and not using the thicknessing my best option?

Piker

That is what i do - I use a SP planer and get 10" width. Ny thicknesser is a Delta 12"

Works quite nicely and once setup, the SIP is not disturbed

 

[Streepips]

Question for Digit. Exactly how is a separate Planer and thicknesser set up more flexible?
Takes me 15 seconds to change from planing to thicknessing mode on my Scheppach...Plus, I can even plane a face and edge and put straight through the thicknesser for the occasional single piece..Machines already running,, no walking from one to the other, no blast gates to open and shut, no extra powerup current dram firing up another separate machine, no swapping extraction hoses. floorspace saved by 50% by having one machine for both operations..... Where is the inconvenience in that?
I might add that I have used Wadkin machines, and Wilson, and Startrite, and Lurem, and Robinson etc...... Planers, thicknessers spindle moulders and so on., but for a small workshop where true flexibility is required the combination planer thicknesser is a real boon.....

 

[Digit]

What you say pips is true of some PTs, but many, as I pointed out, require the table swung aside to take the extractor hood when thicknessing, therebye stopping any surface planing ops
I have used PTs where both functions can be carried out simultaneously and that is a real boon, but lifting a table and attaching/removing the extractor hood isn't!

Roy.

 

[Streepips]

Digit. I agree. And in point. the newer CI versions of the Scheppach are such an example of the painful process of changing from one operation to the other,,Horrible design....

 

[Digit]

Sometimes make you wonder if they ever use there own designs Pip. What was it? Designed by robots, built by robots----. :twisted:

Roy.

 

[pike]

Thanks all. The main thing I was wondering about was if I go for better width on a PT, would the planing be not as good as a 6" stand alone.

I think I'll get a PT just for planing and stick with my DW733 for thicknessing.

Pike.

 

[RogerS]

Pike

You say 'getting a PT'. Wouldn't it be better to get a dedicated planer? That way all the costs of design and manufacture have gone towards the one function that you want.

 

[Gill]

I have a PT taking up too much floor space in my workshop. The trouble is, the thicknessing function broke and I couldn't repair it. So I bought a separate thicknesser and the PT is reserved for jointing.

Roger is right - combination tools are the proverbial jacks of all trades, masters of none.

Gill

 

[pike]

I'd rather do that but I don't know of a decent dedicated planer which can do 8" or 10" and is about £400-800. The only planers I've seen which I can afford are 6" where as the PT have much more width. Any suggestions welcome

 

[Gill]

It's probably a silly question, but what are you making which requires you to plane more than 6"? Your boards must be massive to require an edge greater than that.

Gill

 

[pike]

I've just made an oak table and I used 4 8" wide boards for the top. I prefer not to go narrower for that. I guess in general I could make do easily with a 6". I've also read about using a thicknesser for the wider stuff by sticking it to a sled of some sort, so maybe that would work.

I'm not completely determined to get 8 or 10", but looking at the choices I have, it seems to be either 6" dedicated or 8/10" combination machines. Which is what led me to question is a dedicated planer a better planer and so worth having at the expense of less width.

 

[wrightclan]

I'd rather do that but I don't know of a decent dedicated planer which can do 8" or 10" and is about £400-800. The only planers I've seen which I can afford are 6" where as the PT have much more width. Any suggestions welcome

If you're OK with buying secondhand, look for a Multico on ebay. You'll get a very nice older machine for considerably lower than that price. One caveat--parts are hard to come by and expensive. So look for one that has everything. I have one and my Dad has a 6" jet. They are night and day. Mine is so much smoother (I think) primarily due to the additional mass in the cutterhead and overall mass.

If you have any questions feel free to ask.

Brad

 

[pike]

Thanks Brad. I'll look into that. There are a couple on ebay but obviously being local pick up it'll only be an option if not too far away.

 

[wrightclan]

I don't think a week goes by without at least a couple on the bay. If you wait long enough, you'll probably find one within reasonable distance. If you see one you're interested in, PM me, and I can look at it to see if it looks like all the important bits are intact.

Lately, I'm more of a lurker here, but I do check in from time to time. So, if I don't reply immediately, please be patient.

Brad

 

[ike]

And in point. the newer CI versions of the Scheppach are such an example of the painful process of changing from one operation to the other,,Horrible design....

What?, even more horrible than the older ones?

 

[Pecker]

I'm going to disagree a bit here. If you look at the older cast iron machines like Wadkins, Multico etc they were often planer/ thicknessers and the mainstays of many many workshops. Indeed I would still love one. So the concept is not poor.

The problem is the modern equivs are not really a patch on the old fashioned models. That said, I am a pro. I have a proper joiners shop/workshop in a council unit. I'm not a hobbyist.

I had to buy a new machine to replace a Record C"6 multifunction thing. I eventually decided on the Metabo HC260 P/T. It's the same basic design as most of these, SIP/Record/ scheppach things.
Yes you do need to remove one side of the top to thickness. But it takes all of about 30 secs if that to adjust to either planer or thicknesser including very quickly moving the extractor inlet (which either sits in the thicknesser or clips on top). And it's movable too, which is a real bonus in my shop and obviously takes up much less room.

It gets hammered at times, planing Oak, Beech, Ash and cheap Redwood by the ton.

Yes it would be nice to have heavier machine, but unless you use it for several hours every day in a real production workshop. Whats the point?
And, if you're using it that much, you really do NEED to upgrade to a major brand heavy duty machine/s.

Opposite me are two Joiners. 6 days a week, 8 hours a day, they use an old unbranded planer thicknesser. Nothing wrong with them at all.

woody

 

[Digit]

I spent half my apprenticeship shoving timber over and under a Wadkin PT, and when modern manufacturers produce something as good, at a price I can afford, I'll have one!

Roy.

 

[Streepips]

Same here Digit, a Wadkin Bursgreen......