Planer /Thicknesser Confusion...

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DavidE

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Hi there,

Although I don't own any type of P/T at the moment - I have thought for a while that I would buy a combo machine (the make is a another thread!)

Anyway, I have recently thought that I might have some more space available so would be able to go for separate machines and the advantges that they bring. however, I'm confused now I shall use floor standing Jet Machines as a comparison (looking at max width of stock)

They have Planers:
54A 150mm Width
60A 200mm Width

thicknesserJ
PM-13 - 330mm Width

Planer/Thicknesser
JPT-310 310mm Width

Now if were to buy the 60A and PM-13 I would have an 8" planer and a thicknesser with an extra 5" of width wasted for doing boards.

Am I being a bit dopey here, or is there a good reason why the planers don't go any wider than 8"? Looking purely at the width spec the combo seems a better setup?

Thanks
David
 
bloody good point. what a rip off.......
a jointer has a very specific job to do......jointing. it usually has very long tables to remove bow and twist. many combination machines only have quite short beds. should furniture be made with boards wider than 8 inches? it is quite possible to thickness a long board flat in many cases. one advantage of a combination will be the thicknesser is quieter due to the induction motor. trying to remove a slow bow on a long plank can be murder on a short table though.
 
Hi David
Yes, it certainly is confusing! I have a 54a and a 15 inch thicknesser so I'm very much aware of the difference! :lol:
The story I've been told is this: The jointers you mention at American, yes? I was told that the Yanks mainly buy their timber planed both both sides so only use their jointers for EDGE jointing. So the width of the table was not used - there was even call for the manufacturers to make a 2 inch wide jointer (as most folk work with 2 inch or less material).
Now for thicknessing - well thats different!!
So in the real world you have two choices. One, rip wider material in half so you can surface plane it and then edge joint it back into one wide, flat board. Or two, flatten one side with a hand plane and use your thicknesser to flatten the other side.
On wide boards I use option two, its not too difficult - honest! But inthe past I have used the first option, it works well and you never see the join.
Oh, and don't forget. You won't be wasting the extra width of your thicknesser. You can always run wider panels through it!
Hope this has been of help
Philly :D
 
I don't think flattening boards wider than 6"-8" is wise because of cupping. In my last project I needed a top 20" depth x 36" long x 2" thick.

I could have got that depth of 20" with two pieces but I used five pieces at a little over four inches wide to get the 20", it's much more stable and less likely to cup. I biscuited & glued three of the pieces then did the same with the other two pieces, when cured I thicknessed the two parts of the top separately planing on both sides, I was then left to biscuit & glue only one joint to form the top, all that was needed to make it perfect was a little light sanding. So to conclude, yes a planer as wide as the thicknesser would be nice but it's not necessary. :)
 
Hi there,
Thanks for all the replies - they have cleared a few things up in my head. I will review some of the specs in a different light now.

johnny b - thanks for your thoughts good point about boards wider than 8". I also figured that a thicknesser would plane boards okay - albeit it's not designed to get the bow out as easily.

Philly - Yep I think they are American - thus a good point about how they buy their wood. Good point on the thicknesser too for wider boards. I guess that could even be post jointing. As you allude to... it also explains why they are called jointers in the US.

Jacob - Good point about long unwieldy boards and the feeding.

Lord Nibbo - good answer to johnny b's point. Taking all this into account an 8" planer now has ample capacity to joint say 4" wide boards. :D

Cheers
David
 

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