Planed to size

[John Brown]

Anyone know of anywhere near me(KT7 0AU) where I can buy some timber planed to size?

John

 

[Mike.S]

What types of wood (soft, hard, exotics....)?

 

[John Brown]

Just softwood. For a window. I've contacted Alsfords and am awating reply.

 

[Mike.S]

Champion have some local branches and machine to size (for additional cost). I've previously bought custom moulded timber for windows.

If you have any problems I may be able to help with use of planer/thicknesser, router etc. PM me.

Edit: I'm in KT4.

 

[John Brown]

About to go to Champions to pick up a sheet of ply. I'll ask while I'm there, although I think my local branch(Claygate) is too small. Maybe the big New Malden branch will do it. Was expecting additional cost.

Thanks.

 

[John Brown]

Champions say they can do this for me. I will drop the details in to my local branch and they organize things with the Wimbledon branch. Let's see how it goes.

 

[Mike.S]

In the past Champion (New Malden) have provided softwood with the ovolo and rebates already moulded, meaning I just needed to cut to length and make the M&T joints for casement windows I was replacing. Coincidentally, I've just replaced another one but having run out of ready moulded timber and with matching french doors to make, decided to machine from stock timber (Champion, Claygate supplied). This gave me the excuse to build a router table and learn new skills.

Enough of me - it seems like you're probably sorted but feel free to contact me if you think I may be able to help.

 

[John Brown]

If you buy the timber with the ovolo already moulded, how do you scribe the rails to fit(unless you happen to have a router cutter that matches the Champions supplied profile)? I made my first small(but fiddly - top half divided into four panes) window last year, at which time I bought a set of router cutters. I have an Axminster morticer and I cut the tenons on my Inca bandsaw. The thing I don't have is a PT(and I don't really have room for one either), and this window needs to be exactly 40mm deep to fit the frame.

Mind you, such is the state of my brain these days that I'll have to start from scratch working out what the various steps are!

Thanks for you kind offer of help.

John

 

[Mike.S]

John

Good question!

I removed the end part of the ovolo on the stiles, except where the ovolo on the rails would meet (see later) and then jointed the flush end of the rail (with tenon) into/onto the flush face of the stile (with mortice). Besides not having a scribe router to match the ovolo, I figured the additional strength of a fully scribed joint was minimal (gluing end grain of rail) and any twist could be resisted by a good length tenon and haunch. Where the ovolos met I considered just using a mitre joint but ended up scribing (using a narrow chisel for the curve, as I didn't then have gouges) - that is cut-away - the ovolo on the stiles, so that the ovolo on the rails went over/underneath. This gave a neat joint that was less likely to open up as a mitre joint might.

Now that I have a Router table, I purchased a matched ovolo/sash scribe set from Wealden's. This worked well, until I got cocky and just hand-held (to the sliding mitre gauge) the rail I was scribing. Of course, it slipped a few mm's and I removed more than intended - but that's why I have a good supply of filler :shock: (windows were to be painted). I reverted to using a clamp and all was well again.

As regards making stock all the same thickness, I found the 50mm nominal wood (from Champions) to come out at 43-44mm, so ran it all through the thicknesser, ending up at a smidgin under 43mm. I see you need 40mm. Doable by hand plane I suppose (just one window?) but let me know if you want to use my PT (or I'll do it). BTW I have some second-hand redwood (44mm thick, good stuff but painted) from the old window and french doors that might suit your needs - again, PM if you think it might be of use (cut/thicknessed to size of course), otherwise it's heading for the dump.

Your order of steps remark made me smile. I had/have the same problem. Keen to try out my Router table I cut the rebates and ovolo in the stiles and then struggled to cut the mortices (by hand) as one edge was only circa 10mm wide due to the moulding. This time I intend to cut the mortices then mould.

Good luck.

Mike

 

[John Brown]

I have a PDF or two somewhere on this computer that were very helpful re. window making. When I find them I'll send you a copy, if you like.

Thanks again for your offers of help.

John

 

[Mar_mite]

I live in claygate. The lads in champion are very helpful and their timber is good quality, far better than other timber merchants. Unless you want to go through the process of machining up the timber with the rebate and ovolo for hobby proposes I'd buy the relevant parts from champion and ask them to reduce the thickness for you. You will have to make up the meeting rails yourself though (assuming you mean a box sash window).

 

[John Brown]

Actually it's a simple(but very big) casement window. This house is a mix of casement and box sash. Since I already have the router cutters I'd rather do the ovolo and rebate myself, as I don't have gouges(or the skill to use them) to scribe the corners.
I agree that the chaps at Champions are always helpful. I've bought stuff there many times, and at the New Malden branch. I do hate having to pay to park next door to Champions, though!

 

[John Brown]

Just to follow up, in case anyone else local needs timber planed to size, Champions did a great job. Charged me £10 for the machining, which represented about 20% extra on the cost.