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Plane tear out

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wcndave

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Set up a record number 7 as best I can and made sure the blade is ultra sharp, but get the tear out shown at the end. The grain does reverse, however I do not get this with qs number 5, or block plane. All are equally sharp.

Any ideas? How to check for chatter etc?

uploadfromtaptalk1347643763073.jpg
 

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MIGNAL

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That's some pretty serious tear out. Check the seating of the frog and that the blade is sitting correctly on it.
 

Pete Maddex

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Hi, Dave

+2 on the frog seating and check face of the frog is flat.
Move the chip breaker up CLOSE to the edge of the iron as you dare, 0.1mm is best, I check by looking at the light reflected by the blade.
This will cause the shavings to curl over and hold the wood fibers ahead of the blade down. Its something that has worked for my planing Silver Birch burr which is very soft and has wild grain.

And take as fine shavings as you can.

What wood is that?

Pete
 

wcndave

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It is birch. I have checked the seating etc as best as I can, however it's a modern Stanley, so the frog is sitting on eight little contact points, however it seems solid. I guess I know the theory, but am struggling to deduce the reason on this one. Can't feel chatter, but I don't know what it feels like...and so on.
 

AndyT

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Have you tried planing the difficult bit the other way round? You don't have to plane end to end every time. I'm guessing the grain reverses at a knot.
 

Jacob

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It looks a really difficult piece of wood. Just stick to the QS 5 if that'll do it. I wouldn't lose any sleep over the 7, beyond checking on sharpening and set. The whole point of having several planes is that one might work where the others won't. You don't expect them all to perform the same; if they did you'd only need one.

PS to be realistic - traditionally you'd never have been expected to plane such a crappo piece of firewood. It's just that expensive modern planes and uber sharpening techniques make it possible - and it becomes a challenge. Not practical though, better to use better wood.

PPS if you don't know what chatter is like then you aren't getting it! It's what you get sometimes when the workpiece is loose, the plane badly adjusted etc and the balde skips a bit and leaves lines. Easy to avoid.
 

johnwc812

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Hi,
I had a similar problem, the plane worked well most of the time but played-up and chattered on difficult grain.
The clue to my problem was fine shavings occasionally got trapped between the cap iron and blade.
I swapped the cap iron and problem was solved. (Manufacturing fault?)
There seemed to be no visible fault with cap iron, but it was not putting pressure in the right area.
I suspect it might have been slightly concave or convex.
Cheers John
 

wcndave

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What's wrong with birch?

Anyway I put a back bevel on, ground the cap iron so it actually sits flat on the blade,(it was as the wrong angle so only the edge made contact), and put the cap iron a touch closer.



Now just have to learn how to be square to face, and not plane twist into it...
 

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