Plane advice for site use.

[tomba26]

I am a carpenter and joiner who at the moment spends most of my time doing domestic work and renovations. I am looking for a new hand plane to complement a low angle block plane and replace an old number 4 smoother and am considering either a no 5 Jack, another no 4 smoother or a 4.5 smoother.
I use the workshop to manufacture joinery items or size my timber so a lot of the time it is simply fitting work and general fettling when out and about or maybe a few passes after my power planer when fitting doors, etc.
What would you suggest as the ideal plane, at the moment i am leaning towards a Jack?
Also for those of you who have used one, where does the Veritas 5 1/4 fit in (the one with the 2" iron), is it basically a compromise between a smoothing plane and a jack plane?
Thanks.

 

[GazPal]

For a small site-work set I'd run with an inexpensive Stanley/Record #4,#5/#5.5, plus block plane and keep the more expensive tools for the workshop, as things have a habit of going on the wander on sites. The only other planes I'd consider adding to those three would be a fillister (#78 or #778) and small bull-nosed plane.

Much depends on the timbers being dealt with.

 

[jimi43]

I find a nice No4 1/2 either Stanley or Record is great at most things..maybe a No.5 1/2 and No.7 too if you do a lot of jointing.

Jim

 

[woodbloke]

A bog standard No5 jack (preferably an older one) is what you should aim for to go in your site kit. It'll do everything that you need it to do and as others have said, keep the nice stuff for the 'shop (under lock and key :wink: ) A small block plane is also very useful on site - Rob

 

[speed]

i have a 601/2 and a no5 for site

 

[cheekyboy]

I have a 5 1/2 a 60 1/2 and a 778 rebate plane and a small bullnose rebate plane i use on site , hope this helps

 

[tomba26]

Many thanks for the replies, sounds like a Jack plane is the way forward then.
Would you suggest a 5 over the 5 1/2 or is there no real world difference?

 

[GazPal]

Many thanks for the replies, sounds like a Jack plane is the way forward then.
Would you suggest a 5 over the 5 1/2 or is there no real world difference?

The #05 1/2 (2 3/8" blade) has more heft to it than a #05 (2" blade) and is 1" longer @ 15" than a #05. I'd honestly recommend a #05.1/2 over a #5, because it's extra weight and blade width can help if dealing will gnarly timber, but would still swing with a #04 in my kit as it comes in handy for smaller work, where using a plane with a shorter nose would better suit the work in hand, or if something happens to your #05/#05.1/2 (Accidental drop or breakage which would leave you without a plane if without back-up).

A lot depends on the timbers being dealt with, as a 2" wide blade won't handle 2.1/4" wide surfaces quite as well as a 2.3/8" blade, plus you can cover more ground when skew planing with a wider blade.

My old on-site planing kit consisted of a #04, #05/#05.1/2, 060.1/5, #778, plus #077A. The kit I carried would vary depending on the work in hand, but also keep a spare double iron or two handy in case of mishaps.

The better equipped you are, the less hassle you'll have if you encounter any snags and the more popular you become with your employers. :wink:

 

[jimi43]

As I said earlier...the halves win hands down over the standard numbers with me.

Jim

 

[GazPal]

As I said earlier...the halves win hands down over the standard numbers with me.

Jim

True for me too. :wink:

 

[tomba26]

Thanks fellas, I'm going to try and pick up a really nice Record 5 1/2 then (as tempting as it is to splash out on a Clifton ).

 

[woodbloke]

Thanks fellas, I'm going to try and pick up a really nice Record 5 1/2 then (as tempting as it is to splash out on a Clifton ).

...but if you can't find a decent 1/2, then a perfectly standard No5 will do it all for you and may well be easier to get hold of. Look for an old one though in decent nick - Rob

 

[tomba26]

Thanks Rob, I'll be scouring the sites the next couple of days.
I'm going to try and pick up a shoulder plane as well.

 

[bugbear]

A lot depends on the timbers being dealt with, as a 2" wide blade won't handle 2.1/4" wide surfaces quite as well as a 2.3/8" blade

Long ago I had it drummed into me that a 2x4 is nowhere near 2" x 4".

And clearly even a 2 5/8" blade won't do the "wide" side in a single pass.

What site timbers are 2 1/4" wide? Are they common?

BugBear

 

[GazPal]

A lot depends on the timbers being dealt with, as a 2" wide blade won't handle 2.1/4" wide surfaces quite as well as a 2.3/8" blade

Long ago I had it drummed into me that a 2x4 is nowhere near 2" x 4".

And clearly even a 2 5/8" blade won't do the "wide" side in a single pass.

What site timbers are 2 1/4" wide? Are they common?

BugBear

Argument for argument's sake, or over analysis? :lol: Site carpentry and joinery deals with both dressed and undressed timber in a variety of dimensions other than 4"x2" timbers. Barge boards, soffits, doors, frames, staircases, newel posts, etc.. The list goes on, but having the right tools for the job goes a long way toward improving output.

The only reason I'd mentioned the 2 1/4" dimension was as an example of how a wider plane can help one cover more yardage with fewer passes. Dimensions given weren't meant to be taken literally. :wink:

You haven't lived if you've not had to hang or fettle a 2"-3" thick Oak/Mahogany door.

2 1/4" timbers aren't too common, but a great deal depends on the job in hand and designs (As always) vary, whilst even pre-fabricated stock often needs more work (Tweaking) before it's ready for fitting. You still encounter thicker doors and frames in need of an edge dressing during the fix process. Door hanging tends to be the situation where a wider blade truly comes in handy and helps speed the process. Especially if having to skew the cut for the sake of a cleaner finish and - if on price - the least passes of the plane, the quicker the job and the more money you can make within a given period of time.

 

[bugbear]

Argument for argument's sake, or over analysis?

Call me detail-oriented. I do like to get facts straight, and also to differentiate universal truths, things that are true in a particular context, and things which are opinion, speculation or hear say.

They can all have value, but knowing which is which is helpful.

BugBear

 

[GazPal]

Argument for argument's sake, or over analysis?

Call me detail-oriented. I do like to get facts straight, and also to differentiate universal truths, things that are true in a particular context, and things which are opinion, speculation or hear say.

They can all have value, but knowing which is which is helpful.

BugBear

Hi Detail Oriented,

Which pointers had you assumed to be based upon speculation, hearsay, opinion and universal truths?

Preferred tool choice is always going to be based upon opinion, practicality and - hopefully - experience. Experience is generally the reason behind preferences. Seldom conjecture, hearsay or maxims laid down by the great tool guru in the sky, but arguing the toss over a sample timber dimension did seem a tad anal and argumentative.

Timber dimensions depend upon which stage of the process you intend to discuss and can range from rough stock to completed items. Mills and suppliers are generally willing to provide stock in the dimensions you require. Much depends upon the specification for the work in hand and a dimension of 2 1/4" (breadth or depth) isn't too uncommon.

 

[bugbear]

but arguing the toss over a sample timber dimension did seem a tad anal and argumentative.

I genuinely did not know wether you were refering to 2 1/4" as being a commonly used, and therefore important, size or just an example chosen at random.

So I asked.

BugBear

 

[GazPal]

but arguing the toss over a sample timber dimension did seem a tad anal and argumentative.

I genuinely did not know wether you were refering to 2 1/4" as being a commonly used, and therefore important, size or just an example chosen at random.

So I asked.

BugBear

I thought you'd already known.

My apologies for the misunderstanding.

 

[JoinerySolutions]

Actually there is a greater need for the wider bladed plane nowadays as due to the (constantly changing) regs on glazing units timber doors that may require easing are actually getting thicker in section to accomodate the fact. I have made a number of doors that are ex 2 1/2" (65mm approx) stock, and can see the the benefit of my Stanley Bailey 4 1/2 with its 60mm blade width.
Who knows if the pen pushers keep it up our doors will end up looking like fortress gates! :lol:
Rob.