picture frames

[devonwoody]

I am looking around for some small and short projects to take up because of holiday arrangements this year. (Off to Europe shortly to do the last Grand Tour and then having the pleasure of visiting Oz. later in the year to see the contest of Australia v England at cricket) I have decided to co-ordinate all of the picture frames in our home using the same timber and moulding design.
Below is the photo showing the sapele (I think) which came from our old window frames and was being tossed in the skip by the fitters, I begged them to go easy on the demolition but they were more interested in their time than my concerns.

The first four frames were completed as a dummy run earlier this week as per the stack in this picture.

The backings are built up with some 6mm ply stuck down with that yellow duct tape. (incidentally the tape came from a garage on O'Riordian St. Sydney. I purchased 4 rolls of the stuff because my suitcase was breaking apart owing to a Triton respirator packed in the case and bursting the seams of the suitcase).

So it looks I shall have a fair number of frames to make for those embroideries knocking around and another six jewellery boxes to keep me quiet from further picture postings.

 

[OPJ]

Just think where that sapele could've ended up...

Or the price you'd have to pay for a section like that - it's moulded, mind - new, from your local timber merchant...

Any true craftsman would not have been so careless in simply tossing it into the nearest skip! :x

 

[Woodmagnet]

I like to see people re-cycling,It's surprising what get's thrown away.Well done dw, nice frames. =D>

 

[Paul Chapman]

Very nice, DW =D>

Paul

 

[devonwoody]

The picture below demonstrates how I cut mitres for the picture frames using the Triton. The mouldings have already been formed and a waste pice of timber is laid inside the frame rebate to stop the moulding falling over also stops tear out. The mitre frame is then pushed through the blade firstly using the bottom edge of the guide because no measurement of frame length is required for this piece and then put through the blade again using the top edge of the guide with a stop placed for accurately setting equal lengths of each piece cut. Also any minute angle error is compensated because geometry makes any correction with this tool.

This picture shows the joint that has been cut glued up using those mitre corner clamps I picked up years ago at a car boot sale of around £1.

.

 

[Anonymous]

DW

How did you profile the wood?

 

[devonwoody]

DW

How did you profile the wood?

I've got the the Triton router & table.
Firstly I put in a rebate router cutter (perform) and cut the rebate over two passes 6mm each time.
Turn the moulding over and use a Wealden 1/4" radius roundover bit which again I pass over twice (lifting up the bit using the triton wind up)
I do make a note of the fence settings so that I can go back and make replica mouldings. However new machined mouldings rarely exactly match previous cuts at the mitre joints, there it pays to have some spare for any mishaps.

 

[Waka]

DW

What glue did you use?

 

[devonwoody]

DW

What glue did you use?

I use the Evostick waterproof (in the blue plastic bottle) because I believe it has less slip. But I read on a forum that it is difficult to separate if a mistake has been made(perhaps a good thing) using heat to separate a joint.

 

[cranbrook2]

Great looking frames, even better that they are from reclaimed wood. :lol:

 

[devonwoody]

Tony,

A couple more pictures of my favorite moulding for frames using a wider moulding.

Rebated as before, the round over bit again, but then using a half round bit to produce the wide oval effect all round the frame.