picture frame mitres

[devonwoody]

Later today I am going to knock out some mitred wooden photograph frames so everything in the home is matching. I am taking the glass our of the old frames to reuse (10x8") So I am commited to making the frames to fit the glass.

To obtain the length of a side do I calculate 10" plus the unrebated portion of the frame twice?

That's what I think (plus a small allowance to let the glass drop in)

 

[LyNx]

thats it mate, allow a few mill top and bottom for the glass, but not too much that it doesn't sit in the rebate

Andy

 

[devonwoody]

5 minute response. :wink:


Thanks and to the power of the forum and internet.

I only had time to make the pot of tea.

 

[gidon]

DW
Maybe some useful info here:
http://www.frameco-online.com/shopuk/webcontent15.htm
Yep I just add 5mm total to the measurements for the glass fit. Also don't forget to allow for a mount if you want one - normally 2-5cm surround.
Cheers
Gidon
(If you don't have mount cutting capabilties I'm sure I could help out ...)

 

[j]

i've often wondered about mounting photos.

It seems there's a lot more to it than sticking the photo on a bit of coloured card and putting it in the fram, but i'm not sure what

I've seen special mount cutting devices, out of interest, why can't you just use a sharp knife and a ruler?


Thanks
J

ps. this does sound like a bit of a rant, but i'm just interested.

 

[gidon]

J
Traditionally you cut the window in the mount card at 45 degrees. The gadgets you buy angle a stiff sharp blade to do this for you. The cheaper ones you just run along a straight edge. With the more expensive ones the cutter rides along a rail. Mounting your photos can add quite a lot of impact and can also make the result look more professional - but it does depend on the frame, photo, what you like etc etc.
Cheers
Gidon

 

[j]

I see, the mount has a window.

You learn something every day
I would have just got a piece of card and stuck the photo on the middle of it.

So the mount is like another frame with a significant depth (so you can see the angled cut).

maybe i'll give it a go one day.

Thanks

 

[gidon]

Yep - you can even double mount the photo . The card is usually a couple of mm thick.
Cheers
Gidon

 

[jasonB]

Most mount board is whats called "six sheet" and has a thickness of 1.5-2.0mm depending on the make, you can also get 4 & 8 sheet thicknesses.

It generally has a white core with just a coloured surface so the bevelled cut gives a white line around the cutout. You can also buy coloured core board in a limited range. Double mounting is where you have two mounts one with a slightly bigger cut out usually 6mm all round.

A good framer can cut the bevels with a scalple held at an angle but a mount cutter is easier, cheap ones start from £15-20 like the Jakar & Olfa then you get ones that run in a groove in a straight edge from about £50 such as Maped, You then move upto cutters on a board with a fence so there is less setting out for faster cutting. I have cut literally thousands over the years on a Logan Compact which is the smallest of this type and costs £160.

Jason

 

[Neomorph]

Don't forget the "V" nails and tool like you can get here.

Or maybe you want something a bit more expensive like this under-pinner here. :shock:

 

[Paul Chapman]

Don't forget the "V" nails and tool like you can get here.

The Pushmaster is made by FrameCo. This link http://www.clubframeco.com/picture_fram ... tools.html shows how it works. It's a very good tool if you have lots of frames to make but probably a bit expensive if you are only doing a few.

Paul

 

[MikeW]

Yep - you can even double mount the photo . The card is usually a couple of mm thick.
Cheers
Gidon

And an example...

Tis easy enough to make if you go slow enough and use a sharp knife--I have ruined a few by over cutting or using too dull a knife.

Take care, Mike