Pen mandrel problem

[Peggy]

Oh, thank you Loz, then thats what I'll do. I thought it had to be a special nut for lathes.

I'm still wondering how they can justify charging £25 postage for one nut!

 

[loz]

If you know a mechanic, then old ford oil filters also have the correct thread for your lathe, ( have the filter bit cut off )

- they make great cheap small faceplates, im sure one could adapt the thread part for a thread protector.

 

[chipmunk]

Nice theory Loz but I can assure you that you'll not find anything other than metric coarse nuts and bolts up to about M12 in the DIY chains here - Definately nothing as big as 19mm (3/4") diameter and no 3/4" UNF nuts.

It might be possible to track down a nut of the right size but I don't think it'll be easy.

A cheapish solution would be to buy a 2" T01 faceplate from Axminster for £10.50

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-faceplate-50mm-prod22085/
Jon

 

[Spindle]

Hi Peggy

I think you'll need to go to a more specialised supplier than B&Q etc. - nowadays they only sell metric threads, (at least in my area).

Try here:

http://www.namrick.co.uk/acatalog/U.N.F._Nuts.html

You need a 3/4 UNF nut, three up from the bottom

Regards Mick

 

[loz]

Peggy,

call these guys

http://www.hassetts.ie/

 

[loz]

Or these

http://www.perenco.ie/

or these

http://www.tucksfasteners.ie/


All in Ireland Peggy


Also might be worth calling Stanley here http://indigo.ie/~whraitt/ - he just might have the odd thread protector lying around, as he sells lathes, tell him Laurence sent you

 

[Peggy]

Thanks so much everyone, Loz I will try those links, thank you. I really miss making pens, I can't wait to get it sorted out!

Peggy

 

[Ian down london way]

If you get no joy, I have a friend here (at work) who has pretty much any nut (he seems to collect and maintainer electronic test equipment as a hobby - humm), and I'm sure he will part with one and I can pop it in the post.

Send a message direct to me if you want to go down that path.

Mind you, I still like hitting things with hammers.
Its fun !

 

[Robbo3]

Something that no-one seems to have picked up on, is that morse taper fittings shouldn't be oiled as they work by friction.
I agree that a thread protector is probably the best way to go but it does depend on the fittings. I have one that won't seat because it hits the thread protector before it's fully home. Welding a thick washer on the front of a nut could put you in the same situation.
My thread protector needs approx 3mm removing from the back end to allow it to screw on further.

Another solution, possibly cheaper, could be a piece of pipe, small enough to go through the headstock but large enough to hit on the back end of the mandrel. The bore of the pipe would then clear the mandrel rod which is projecting out of the back.

Any engineer would probably make you one from solid round bar if you gave them the sizes.

HTH

 

[woodyturner]

why would you weld the washer on just let it lay in-between the nut and the flange on the mandrel it will never come of till you remove the mandrel any ol penny washer and open up the hole so it is a tight fit over the fat end of the M/T of the mandrel sand the edges to remove any sharp edges on the washer simple job done

 

[Robbo3]

why would you weld the washer on just let it lay in-between the nut and the flange on the mandrel it will never come of till you remove the mandrel any old penny washer and open up the hole so it is a tight fit over the fat end of the M/T of the mandrel sand the edges to remove any sharp edges on the washer simple job done

Doh! Should have thought of that myself.

 

[Jonzjob]

I have no idea as to what Record charge for postage, but their thread protector would be the way I'd go.

http://www.recordpower.co.uk/product/34 ... -protector

I have a CL1, which also has the 3/4 16 thread and with my Axminster delux mandril I have no problems at all. Everything fits well. Mine CL1 is about 16 years old, so the other end of the age scale. Record call it a thread protector and that's good enough for me :mrgreen:

I agree whith the oil not being used. If anything it will make it a hell of a lot harder to shift any morse taper tool you put in there. Dry and clean is all you should have.

 

[Peggy]

Thanks so much everyone,

Hmmm, I'll have to consider my options. So the oil made it worse...mind you it was jamming before I used the oil. I'm going to try and get a nut locally first.

Peggy

 

[Jonzjob]

Loads of em on here Peggy :roll: :roll:

 

[CHJ]

Peggy, is there enough of a gap between spindle nose and mandrel collar big enough to let you get an Oak or harwood splitter similar to this to break it free until such times as you can get a suitable nut.

 

[Peggy]

I don't think I could do that. The mandrel's stuck fast in my lathe at the moment. As well as that the spindle is bent so Ive got to buy another mandrel, well just the spindle really and tackle the task of removing the mandrel...and get the nut, before I can resume pen making!

Peggy

 

[CHJ]

Can you file two flats on the mandrel collar and get a spanner on it to twist to help beak the sticktion.

 

[Jonzjob]

Another possibility would be to get a spanner big enough to fit over the shaft but smaller than the mandrel, hold the spanner with a thick cloth ot glove and belt it, close to the shaft as you can. Even to pad the space between the spanner and the headstock with some hardwood or metal and knock the spanner handle towards the headstock to try to drive the mandrel out?

When, not if, you get this basket (or a word similar to that) out the first job is to clean ALL of the oil out. Thinners of some kind, but get it as clean as the proverbial babys bum. That way you won't get so bad problems. The oil is doing the job of a very good gripper at the moment it would seem..

Good luck lass!

 

[Paul Hannaby]

The universal mandrel has a hole all the way through the morse taper adapter to allow the shaft to be adjusted for length. All you need to do to prevent the knock out bar from getting stuck in the hole is to loosen the lock screw, retract the mandrel shaft as far as you can and tighten again. Then use the knock out bar to remove the whole thing. Now the mandrel shaft will be stopping the knock out bar from entering the hole in the mandrel adaptor.
I used to do exactly this to get my pen mandrel out from the morse taper.

 

[Jonzjob]

Doing it that way means that every time you do another type of job you have to reset the mandril? Each to his own :mrgreen: