Pen kit refills

[Elaine]

I am just starting off making my first pens, so forgive me if these questions are a little daft.

As the pens seem to push together, how would someone put a refill in them?

What are the best pens for refills re the first question.

Cheers
Elaine

 

[Spindle]

Hi

It depends on which type of pen you are talking about. The slimline ones I have made are replaced by removing the top half of the pen, unscrewing the used refill, replacing refill and upper half of the pen.

Regards Mick

 

[Lons]

Hi Elaine

Slimlines are "cross head" type which should be available from the same placeyou bought the kits or the internet or Ebay. You can buy packs of 5 or 10 quite cheaply. Many of the other kits use standard parker type and also easy to obtain and replace.

Good luck with the pen making, I'm pretty new to it as well and find it very addictive

Bob

 

[Elaine]

I am not sure if I am being clear. I just don't get how someone would replace a refill as they seem to be pushed together quite strongly and getting them open again would be difficult.
Are there any kits that undo easy for refill replacement.
The pens I have that have been bought just unscrew and I pop a refill in and screw it back up. I guess I am looking for a kit that does that, so if you know of any that would be great.

 

[Elaine]

I think I might have found some info here
http://www.turningshop.com/refills-replace.html

 

[nev]

this kit (big ben or cigar) has a parker type refill, top still pulls off then unscrew the mech to replace refill.(although I momentarily forgot how they came apart ) slimline kits are similar but without the inner screwy mech.
https://db.tt/8flhPUv8
edited to include correct video #-o
slimline take cross (style) refills
others Parker (style) refills
try Amazon for genuine ones.

 

[John. B]

Hello Elaine,

Most if not all ballpoint, rollerball and Gel ink pen Kits pull apart to access the refill.

They need to be somewhat tight because they are generally twist pens as apposed to desk or click pens.

When you twist to bring the nib into play, a loose barrel would just unscrew and the nib would not deploy.

For more information on pen kits I can recommend 'Timberbits' in Australia. It is the company I use and have done, for quite sometime.

It is a one man company in Sydney called David Lim. His kits are of high quality and not expensive.(does take a little time to arrive though)

His website is full of useful information including diagrams of all of his pens.

I hope you enjoy getting into pen making I do because the variety of pens to make is almost infinite.

Here's a few of the one's I make.



Sierra with Eucalyptus Burr.



Sierra with a Pickguard insert in Purpleheart.



A Sierra in African Blackwood with an accent in Box ( Celtic knot).



A Sierra made with 3 woods African Blackwood/Box/Padauk segmented in 4mm slices.



And finally A high end Fountain pen in Gold Titanium with Rhodium accents again segmented, same woods in a helix pattern.

John. B

 

[Elaine]

Fab response as always. Video was great nev.
I guess I was thinking that as they are pushed together with a tight fit then how on earth would anyone get them open but I can see now that's achievable.
John b I have looked at timberbits and his stiff looks grand.
I do love this forum as I get such great feedback whenever I ask anything.
Thanks again everyone =D>

 

[pip1954]

hi elaine
i have made some slimline that are to tight i think it is a burr on the end that causes it so i sand the end where the top pushes on but be carefull as has been said you don't want them to loose
all the best
pip

 

[nev]

I forgot to say that the sliding fit is between the brass tube in the top half over the mechanism in the lower half, so there's nothing for the pen maker to concern themselves with as all the work you do is on the outside of the tubes, apart from as Pip says damaging the end of the tubes with some overzealous tightening on the mandrel or getting glue on the inside of the tubes, thereby interfering with the fit. But again as pip says some gentle sanding will clean it off. usually.

 

[John. B]

I forgot to say that the sliding fit is between the brass tube in the top half over the mechanism in the lower half, so there's nothing for the pen maker to concern themselves with as all the work you do is on the outside of the tubes, apart from as Pip says damaging the end of the tubes with some overzealous tightening on the mandrel or getting glue on the inside of the tubes, thereby interfering with the fit. But again as pip says some gentle sanding will clean it off. usually.

Interesting what Nev said here, I have a 'Mandrel saver' which takes away all possibility of over tightening of the little brass wheel thus causing the mandrel to flex or bend.

John. B

 

[Sheptonphil]

And to prevent glue getting inside the tubes when inserting them, push each end into a potato or apple,leaving a plug in the tube, dry outside of tube, before gluing and inserting. Leave to set then push plug through with a dowel.


Phil

 

[Inspector]

Phil, your avatar is of a beekeeper. I would have thought you would use beeswax for plugging the ends of the tubes. We use the flat stuff for rolling into candles we got from a honey place near here. Cheap and doesn't attract fruit flies if you forget it on the workbench. :wink:

Pete

 

[Sheptonphil]

Phil, your avatar is of a beekeeper. I would have thought you would use beeswax for plugging the ends of the tubes. We use the flat stuff for rolling into candles we got from a honey place near here. Cheap and doesn't attract fruit flies if you forget it on the workbench. :wink:

Pete

Hadn't even given the foundation sheets a thought. :roll: I use apple as there is a tree alongside the workshop, but there is also several wax sheets on the shelf next to the drill press, will try it this weekend..

Thanks for the thought.

Phil

 

[Elaine]

Thanks everyone, the apple is a good one as I then ate the rest. Made my own pen press and to show it works made a pen out of ebony. Well there's next christmas gifts for everyone sorted and no throwing so many bits away.

 

[nev]

=D> That looks a tad nicer than my first pen =D>

and dont forget when you get carried away, for each new style of kit you buy, you'll need bushings and probably drill bits for them too. I remember eagerly awaiting my second and third kits, got all excited when they arrived and once in the shed the penny dropped #-o I couldnt do anything with them for another week cos i didnt have the drill bits. :evil:

 

[John. B]

How very inventive! =D> =D> =D> (hammer) (hammer) (hammer)

John. B

 

[Lons]

Hi Elaine

Your ebony pen looks great and an excellent finish as well. What did you use?

I've only been turning pens for a few weeks having bought my lathe in December and find it very addictive.
I'm still in the learning process (probably always will be) but here are three I turned this afternoon. The bottom one is from empty 308 shell cases.

Like the press as well - innovative!

Bob
.

 

[Elaine]

Yes. Is sure there will be a #-o moment when a kit arrives. Guess I will learn to read up before buying or maybe not!

I just used friction polish. I see a lot use blo and ca glue. I'll work my way up to that. Just enjoying the process at the minute as there is an end product that most people use every day.
I like your pens, the bullet pens look great. I have friends in the states who have guns I am sure they would appreciate one. They could send me empty casings, although customs might have a hissy fit.
Cheers it was nice to make a piece of kit instead of buying the press.