one more for scrit!

[engineer one]

i will soon need to sort out some mouldings for a job, and wonder
whether there is an easier way to set it out for cutting on your
mitre saw.

obviously you set up a stop block but do you sort it out
so the long edge is against the fence or outside.

so is there a formula to work out how long the long edge should
be, or do i have to get out my trignometry book again???

surely the old stagers had a proper layout way???

paul :wink:

 

[Colin C]

Hi Paul
I could help but if you give some more details on what you are doing it might help :roll: :wink:

 

[Anonymous]

You must enter a message when posting

 

[engineer one]

sorry guys must be writing wrong again.

i know what angle i want to cut, that is not the problem
the problem is cutting the wood long enough to go to the
edge, and meet that piece coming the other way.
i know about doing it for skirting, and i understand it should
be easier on a piece of furniture since it should actually
have square corners, but since sometimes you cut
the wood upside down or so, you need to cut the outside
to a specific length, and on a repeatable basis.

does that make it clearer. :?

paul :wink:

 

[Anonymous]

You must enter a message when posting

 

[JFC]

Id clamp a block to the bed or fence of the mitre saw and work off that , I take it these are beads to pin on as in a panel on a door ? Id cut one then clamp my block on and work from the outside of the mitre , working with the external cut against the fence can go wrong with sawdust or slipping a little behind your block .

 

[Scrit]

I'm with Jacob on this one, mark from the piece. On those few occasions I've done small batches of furniture with mouldings round the base it's always proven quicker to cut a few millimetres oversize then trim to exact size on the RAS or mitre trimmer because production tolerances were giving me a millimetre or two difference here and there. Oh boy, another "innacurate" response

Scrit

 

[engineer one]

ok guys i surrender :lol:

it is just that when i did the last lot of skirting i wasted too much, and
was looking for a simpler way to estimate and save some money and
wood, as well as time

things is some mouldings seem to suggest themselves as being
better cut whilst they are the wrong way round, say what the
murricans call crown moulding, every one seems to suggest
cutting it upside down. so i guess that the long edge is nearer the blade,
so that was what i was asking after.

i understand the simple mouldings are better cut to the length of the
mounting which you have marked with a pencil etc, and then "massaged"
by using a plane or sander 8)

but what about the more comlex, where you are cutting at the
outer edge????

thanks for taking the bait

paul :wink:

 

[Colin C]

Hi Paul
If I have this right :-k ,I think you have it right and cut it from the part that is on the carcas.
So yes one of the best ways to cut them is upside down, if you like you try to pick me brains when I next see you (hammer) 8-[

 

[engineer one]

works for me :lol:

paul :wink:

 

[Tony Spear]

Just a minor point: on a 45 deg. mitre ( i.e. 90 deg. finished) joint the difference in length between the inside length and the outside length is the same as the thickness of the moulding!

 

[Anonymous]

You must enter a message when posting

 

[engineer one]

ok, not sure you are right about the length of the armon ALL mouldings,
it might be true on say 1/2 round, but not surely crown??? :?

norman, i must get my descriptions sorted.
in principal you are correct, but i was looking for an easier
way to cut to the outside dimension when you only know the
length of the inside dimension.

so back to trig i guess???

paul :wink:

 

[Anonymous]

You must enter a message when posting

 

[engineer one]

sometimes i must stop thinking engineering, and start thinking wood i guess :lol:

thanks for all the input though

paul :wink:

 

[Alf]

sometimes i must stop thinking engineering, and start thinking wood i guess :lol:

Ah, the first step to recovery is recognising you have a problem. Well done, Paul. =D> :wink: :lol:

Cheers, Alf

 

[engineer one]

ah what is this i see before me a compliment??? #-o

i promise i will try to not go to far back, but i do need
to remember certain of my skills (skills?????????? :lol: )

i have some photos of the toga saw and my wooden
dutch planes i must get round to posting for
appraisal.

paul :wink:

 

[Scrit]

Paul

Not all cornices (crown is a Yankee term I believe...... :twisted: ) are cut at 45 degrees - certainly a lot in kitchens aren't. With those that aren't (and those that are as well) you need to set-up the moulding so that it is sitting flat on the base of the chop saw (i.e. with the face which will be flat on the tops of the carcasses flat on the chop saw table and the outer edge ofthe cornice against the back fence) then saw - and some chop saws even have adjustable cornice moulding "lugs" to assist by supporting the inner edge of the moulding during the cut. This does, however, mean cutting from the outside to the inside which to my mind is counter intuative (especially as I'd do it the other way round on a table saw), so some trial and error might be necessary to make the first cut in a session (thereafter you can mark the break-out point at the inside edge of the moulding using a piece of masking tape and a pencil . If your saw hasn't got enough capacity to do this cut then you have to start using trig - probably why kitchen fitters go in for monster SCMSs!

As Jacob says the rod is once again the best tool to transfer the "sizes".

Yet more precision without accuracy, or is it the other way round?

Scrit

 

[johnelliott]

With those that aren't (and those that are as well) you need to set-up the moulding so that it is sitting flat on the base of the chop saw (i.e. with the face which will be flat on the tops of the carcasses flat on the chop saw table and the outer edge ofthe cornice against the back fence) then saw - and some chop saws even have adjustable cornice moulding "lugs" to assist by supporting the inner edge of the moulding during the cut. This does, however, mean cutting from the outside to the inside which to my mind is counter intuative (especially as I'd do it the other way round on a table saw),

I'm not following this. Surely cutting with the outer edge of the cornice against the fence would mean that the saw was leaving the cut through the good face, rather than entering the good face which is usually the recipe for minimal breakout?
I don't own an SCMS nor have I ever used one, nor even watched one being used, so I'm only assuming that the cut is from the front of the machine towards the back fence?
The odd times when I've needed to cut cornice (my customers are discouraged from specifying it) I've used my Nobex and cut from front to back

John

 

[Scrit]

You're quite right John - every machine I've seen to date appears to be wrong, or at least risk break-out at the beginning of the cut! Fortunately the break-out risk is greatest at the bottom of the cut (where the mounting "foot" is and where the break-out won't be seen), further-up the blade enters the work from the face side on a push cut. Most of the modern cornices I've seen are relatively flat, not 45 degrees at all. Look at the design of a chop saw and the tall fence is at the rear with the lugs at the front....... But I'm also a Nobex user. For the sake of 5 or 6 cuts in the average kitchen cornice who needs a power saw? :wink: (although it does come in handy elsewhere)

I've just realised that the neanders will now be commenting, probably :lol:

Scrit