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I admit to a failure of maths/ visualisation skills when it comes to cornice etc. As a result, I decide to take the hit in wood costs and more often than not back my mouldings with 45 deg wedge cut strips to enable me to make a flat cut. Makes it much easier and prevents the very irritating removal of a wedge of material at a corner instead of a mitre cut. DAMHIKT!!

Cheers

Tim
 
at last someone who admits the problems :lol: :lol: :lol:

well done tim.

time to consider a proper jig to work on my DW 708 i think
when i have thought longer and harder will see about a proper posting
well i have to say that don't i????? :oops:

paul :wink:
 
paul":1rsd0j33 said:
at last someone who admits the problems

I'm definitely not the only one. I was reading an article recently on crown moulding and the author was saying that the best place to cut the stuff was in the room to help visualise it!

I got given this book recently: Finish Carpentry (For Pros, by Pros) - Taunton Press. Very useful on this and other stuff like panelling etc. Amazon uk stock it. http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos...76358-3119024?_encoding=UTF8&s=books&v=glance

Cheers

Tim
 
ok, so have got the first set of bookshelves on the wall, and fixed
talk about belt and braces :lol: :lol:
so now looking at the face frame, come scribing to fit the wall.

do you make the face frame to overlap the inside of the
cabinet, or just to be flush with the inside???

i have about 40mm between the inside edge of the units and the
walls. next i guess i temporarily fix some blocks inside to
hold the frame against so i can scribe it, since it is about 1200 long/high
finally should the centre frame piece be the same width as the ends or
does it not matter in terms of how it looks???

under neath will be a kind of pelmet extension of the face frame
to conceal a light or two for the computer desk under neath. will it look
odd being about twice the size of the verticals??

all will be solid oak, pinned to the veneered oak mdf.
and then glass doors inside.

paul
 

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