Old dog new tricks

[whatknot]

Sorry for the long saga, but to explain ;-)

They say you can't teach an old dog new tricks, but they also say you are never to old to learn

I have never tried rust removal using white vinegar, I was not expecting very much but have been very surprised at the results (nay shocked)

I have an old sea chest I have been carting around for many years, it was in my birth home, probably picked up by my mother at an auction sale

I had it stripped years ago but never got around to finishing it off

The two lid hinges are large and one at least looks to be hand made, they were totally rusted and seized up

I took them off and soaked them in white vinegar, checked after a day and they looked the same but a soft wire brush removed the vast majority of the rust with ease, after a second soak and brush up they are moving freely and frankly like new, I wouldn't have believed it had I not done it myself

Finally heres my question, what would be the best treatment for these reborn ancient hinges?

I intend to keep the chest in natural wood finish, the hinges painted

Hammerite? or some other primer/top coat ?

I also used the same white vinegar treatment on a few tools sat in my collection for years, again brilliant results

With tools clearly paint is not an option, after a good rinse in water I have WD40'd them for now but whats the best finish for them post vinegar ?

Again apologies for the long saga (if you are still reading ;-)

 

[gasman]

Jade oil is the best treatment I have used for old metal. Forms a protective layer and stops further rusting
Cheers Mark

 

[thick_mike]

My experience is that whatever you use, get it on quick. The fresh surface is prone to rust quickly after de-rusting and although it's only a flash rust on the surface, it's dispiriting to see your clean surface disappear.

 

[whatknot]

Thanks for that suggestion of Jade oil, I have never heard of it

Not cheap though is it

 

[whatknot]

My experience is that whatever you use, get it on quick. The fresh surface is prone to rust quickly after de-rusting and although it's only a flash rust on the surface, it's dispiriting to see your clean surface disappear.

Yes agree with you there ;-)

 

[WoodMangler]

Rustins metal lacquer - I made a model cannon which rusted in about 5 secs whenever it was touched. I gave it a coat of Rustins metal lacquer and it hasn't rusted since (several years), despite repeated handling.

 

[whatknot]

Rustins metal lacquer - I made a model cannon which rusted in about 5 secs whenever it was touched. I gave it a coat of Rustins metal lacquer and it hasn't rusted since (several years), despite repeated handling.

I see that comes in a 125ml trial size, so a tad more affordable

Are you saying that it would be suitable for most tools?

 

[lurker]

Jade oil is the best treatment I have used for old metal. Forms a protective layer and stops further rusting
Cheers Mark

never heard of it!
similar to snake oil is it? :wink:

Jacob will be along soon to suggest linseed oil which is cheap as chips and will work fine.
I tend to use liquid paraffin which is around 5 quid for 500ml, mainly because I use it as a food safe finish on wooden items and have plenty.

 

[AndyT]

As Jacob isn't here yet, may I suggest linseed oil, thinned a bit with turps/turps substitute? :wink:

As used successfully here post791779.html#p791779

 

[ColeyS1]

I love this stuff http://aquasteel.co.uk does leave it looking a bit shiny though- cures the rust and makes it stable to paint. I've used 2.5 litres of it over the years, just bought another litre to keep me going

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

[whatknot]

As Jacob isn't here yet, may I suggest linseed oil, thinned a bit with turps/turps substitute? :wink:

As used successfully here post791779.html#p791779

Thanks for that suggestion, funny as I have already tried that on a couple of bits to test, a couple of old scrapers I derusted and linseed oil was close to hand having just coated a plane handle, so used it up , I noted it formed a thin crust on the scrapers

Not sure how durable it would be with tools in use but certainly worth a try

 

[AndyT]

With tools in use, there's no problem. Anything kept for longer will depend on where you store it.
The trouble with the average shed is that the water vapour in warm moist air condenses on cold metal, forming rust.
You need to coat the steel, keep it warm or shut it away.

If you use something frequently, a wipe with an oily rag will be enough, or wax on less frequently used items.

If you don't mind spending a few quid, you could try the Shield brand rust inhibitor from Workshop Heaven. I've used this on some carving tools which seldom come out and it's worked well. A little goes a long way and it's unobtrusive.

 

[Bm101]

I use bicarb of soda sprinkled on when I rinse off treated metal. In my head at least it neutralises any remaining acidic effects and does seem to prevent flash rusting although this might be circumstantial and imagined. It's so cheap I do it just in case it does work lol. If anyone can enlighten me?
Another cheap alternative to vinegar is citric acid Woodmangler. It's easier to store in powder form and you have some to hand when needed. I've read adding a drop of meths and fairy helps to break surface tension and aids the process but it works either way. Oddly satisfying process.

Not getting involved in what finish to apply to tools after treatment lol.

Cheers
Chris

 

[whatknot]

I love this stuff http://aquasteel.co.uk does leave it looking a bit shiny though- cures the rust and makes it stable to paint. I've used 2.5 litres of it over the years, just bought another litre to keep me going

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

This looks like a variety of rust remedy which although very good in the applications I have used it on, is only okay if you are going to paint the item, so not so great for tools, but might be okay on the hinges I have but they have cleaned up so well I don't think its necessary in my case

Thanks though, it reminded me of the rust remedy I still have some of ;-)

 

[whatknot]

With tools in use, there's no problem. Anything kept for longer will depend on where you store it.
The trouble with the average shed is that the water vapour in warm moist air condenses on cold metal, forming rust.
You need to coat the steel, keep it warm or shut it away.

If you use something frequently, a wipe with an oily rag will be enough, or wax on less frequently used items.

If you don't mind spending a few quid, you could try the Shield brand rust inhibitor from Workshop Heaven. I've used this on some carving tools which seldom come out and it's worked well. A little goes a long way and it's unobtrusive.

I had a read on the Shield stuff you mentioned, sounds quite good and cost effective over a period, I will keep that one on the back burner as its a tad rich for my pocket at present

 

[Jacob]

Jade oil is the best treatment I have used for old metal. Forms a protective layer and stops further rusting
Cheers Mark

never heard of it!
similar to snake oil is it? :wink:

Jacob will be along soon to suggest linseed oil which is cheap as chips and will work fine.
I tend to use liquid paraffin which is around 5 quid for 500ml, mainly because I use it as a food safe finish on wooden items and have plenty.

Raw linseed oil is food safe.* It also sets hard and leaves a durable film over the surface, unlike paraffin oil (and most oils).
It really is good stuff but the modernists amongst us tend to have little faith in simple remedies and prefer dubious expensive 'high tec' options. I suppose it's psychology; if in doubt people believe claims made for supposedly purpose-made remedies.

*boiled linseed oil may not be food safe as it has additives (hardeners) sometimes lead.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Here's an American list that contradicts that -
http://kinne.net/poi-list.htm

 

[AndyT]

You can buy flax seeds and flax oil in Holland and Barrett. I really don't think they are poisoning their customers!

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I know.

 

[Jacob]

May not be a good idea to drink it by the bottle full but the faint trace transferred from a utensil to food would be utterly harmless. Lots of very ordinary foods contain cyanide and other poisons - mostly in pips and stones. Cyanide is the characteristic smell of almonds.