Oak worktop in long length

[grahame]

I'm renewing my kitchen
And looking for 620 x 40mm solid oak worktop @ 5300mm long.
Can anyone suggest/recommend a supplier for this?
Or what would be the rough cost for bespoke?
I could butt joint two lengths - but would the join stick out in the stave pattern?

 

[jasonB]

South London Hardwoods could make one up but expect to pay about £250 per meter.

You could get a couple of 650mm worktops and rip them into say 3 pieces, stagger the end joints and put them back together which would help to hide the joint.

Are there any sink or hob cut outs in that length as you could put ajoint below one of those and it won't show.


J

 

[jt100]

hi you could try http://www.barncrest.co.uk they may be able to help
they sent me some nice samples.
all the best
john

 

[grahame]

Thanks guys
The long length will have sink - 980 x 490 and hob - 850 x 490 cutouts
My first thought was to hide the join in one of them but my fitter sounded a bit dubious
It would obviously be the easy and cheap option
Barncrest offer 650mm wide top = 80mm front and back for joint ? enough for joining bolt and maybe biscuit joint to keep the top flush
? Further comments or can I reassure my fitter that this would work OK?

 

[jasonB]

The hob would be the better of the two as there is less risk of water getting in.

Bolt and a biscuit above it and if there is room screw a batten under the joint once its bolted up, should be OK at tehback but may not be possibel at the front.

J

 

[chipmunk]

Hi Graham,
I recently used these folks http://www.worktop-express.co.uk/ and they were very good indeed.

Good price and their couriers were very good too. They also advertise bespoke services including cut-outs.

Jon

 

[Hudson Carpentry]

It would be to heavy, its a 3 man lift I believe or a struggle 2 man lift. Not to mention if there are any tight corner for it to go around. That about of oak would cost you around £400 sawn and for it to be made bespoke your looking at around £360 in labour plus special delivery and second man charge. So in total your looking at around £850 midlands tradesmen prices.

 

[grahame]

Still confused!
worktopexpress say "We can not join the worktops together by the hob or sink cut out. There would be very little support for the worktops and could potentially cause structural damage"
Have not heard back from barncrest yet re long length.
Can anyone else offer real world BTDT advice on joining at cutout?

 

[jasonB]

Sound like you have asked them to join two standard tops off site and I agree there would be no way of moving them without the risk of breaking the joints.

You either need a proper bespoke long board ( not staved) worktop made as one unit so any joints can be staggered or two standard staved tops that will have to be joined on site. I've had specials made by SLH as I mentioned above, these use long wide boards that have a glue joint profile run along the edges and are then put through a thickness sander on completing but for oak you would be looking at £250 per meter run thats souther rates.

This is the type of thing you get for your money 700mm wide with a mitred downstand to make it look 80mm thick at the front, 175mm wide boards and no end joints. I still cut all the mitres & joined it on site

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v156/ ... t=bar2.jpg

J

 

[grahame]

Thanks Jason
Not sure what they thought I asked!
What I did ask: "Could I put the joint at the hob cut-out?Could you prepare this for biscuit + bolt?"
i.e. to finally assemble onsite
If the cutout and joint prep was done on their premises, presumably they could dry-assemble to check accuracy?
And a bit extra length at the other ends would give me some wiggle room to meet wall and butt joint for L-shape
Maybe five mins on phone tomorrow with worktopexpress would clarify matters
Am I right in thinking that the butt joint at the cutout is mostly about how neat the joint looks?
In my mind the top itself is supported on rigid carcases
And further splinted by the hob once this is clamped up and as you suggest extra battens underneath
The biscuits help flush the top and increase the glue area and the bolts draw it together nice and tight
This is stretching my budget and I have to get it right first time

Your club bar is absolutely stunning

 

[jasonB]

Yes, placing the joint at one edge of a cutout is all about look, you would not normally want to place a joint in that position but it avoids a full width butt joint which will always look like you have butted two tops together.

With the joint on the cutout all you will see is two unstaggered staves and unless you know its there no one will notice it.

As you say biscuit is to keep things on a level surface and bolt to hold things together.

I would just get two tops delivered and do all the cutouts and jointing on site but depends on what you have available and feel happy doing yourself

It is possible to rejoin worktops both along the grain and end to end without it showing, this zebrano table top was made up from about 9 or 10 off cuts and the sink cutout as the client asked for a table after I had ordered the tops, had I know I would have got three 4m tops rather than 2x4m and 1x 3m. The reflected light on the top would be a give away if there were poor joints

 

[grahame]

Just to complete ( I hope) the story....
Worktopexpress are unhappy to have joint in cutout
Barncrest are - and will do cutout, prepare the buttjoint with biscuit/bolt and test-assemble before shipping
They will also make me an extra large island top at a good price.
Many thanks for the advice esp Jason - your " leftovers" piece has got me thinking!

 

[Walshy]

I'm renewing my kitchen
And looking for 620 x 40mm solid oak worktop @ 5300mm long.
Can anyone suggest/recommend a supplier for this?
Or what would be the rough cost for bespoke?
I could butt joint two lengths - but would the join stick out in the stave pattern?

we could help, no problem. Let me know if you're sorted?

Paul