Oak window sill repair

[petermillard]

Hey there.

A friend of my father's has some minor rot in an external corner of a window sill and wants it repairing. The frames are Oak, and he's been told by one guy that he needs to have another piece of Oak scarfed in, whereas someone else suggested that any hardwood would do the job.

Is there a definitive answer to this? Is there anything in the makeup of Oak that makes it 'reject' other species, or is there another reason (different rates of expansion/contraction maybe) that would make an Oak infill the best choice?

The windows will be painted, so the finish isn't an issue.

Any and all thoughts much appreciated. Thanks in advance,

Pete.

 

[Digit]

To be honest I have never known any sill repair that lasted due to differential movement of the two timbers, what ever species they were.

Roy.

 

[milkman]

if its to be painted you could just do a resin repair.

If you want to scarf in a repair oak would be worth using as it will have a similar resistance to decay as the host piece.

 

[petermillard]

Thanks for the swift replies. My folks are 200 miles away so it's not a job I'm undertaking - if I was I'd be happy to use resin - but the old boy whose windows they are particularly wanted a wooden infill repair and was given differing opinions by the tradesmen who came to quote, and I was curious to know if one or the other was 'best practice'.

Thanks again, Pete.

 

[Mr Mike]

Hi Pete,

Mike here, hope all's good with you. I do an awful lot of this kind of work, and as much as I'm a traditional carpenter at heart, the problem with old fashioned scarfs and splices, is that you introduce even more cut end grain into the joinery, however well they have been fitted and glued. Eventually, these let moisture into the repaired areas.

The best way nowadays for these kinds of repairs is with modern epoxy resin systems like window care dry flex, timbabuild, desowood or west systems epoxies. For small areas one can use just the resin. For larger areas you can 'bond in' the new timber sections. This really does seal any end grain in the repairs, and it will move seasonally with the timber without cracking (unlike the brittle 'car body' type fillers) that decorators so love to use.

If they are good enough for wooden boats, then they're good enough for windows I would say.

If the repair is to be painted then this is the best way to go.

Other opinions of course are available.... :wink:

 

[RogerS]

Pete

Mr Mike has hit the nail on the head.

Re your original question about someone suggesting using any hardwood...well, the cynic in me says that that was because he didn't have any oak to hand.

Roger

 

[petermillard]

Other opinions of course are available.... :wink:

Hey Mike. Never any shortage of opinions lol! Yes all good here thanks - hope all's well with you down in SE London. Haven't seen you on SFX of late - I look in there now and then but generally can't be @rsed to get involved...

Appreciate the feedback - I thought that resin's the way to go, but good to have it confirmed by the grown-ups - I'll pass the message along.

...well, the cynic in me says that that was because he didn't have any oak to hand.

I'm sure you're right. Again, thanks for the feedback.

Cheers, Pete

 

[Mr Mike]

No, I haven't been on there of late. But you only have to look at the quality of the current first 10 posts there at the moment to know why !?


Don't panic UKworkshop, I promise not to invite them over here for their valuable and knowledgeable sage like contributions :lol:

Merry Christmas to you and yours from chilly Greenwich...

 

[petermillard]

Cheers, you too!