Ctech83
Member
Hi,
My first woodworking project is a oak table where I'm going to have the table legs connected to the table with a wedge joint (joint being visible through the table top). I have a few questions below that i hope might be able to help.
1. How tight should the wedge be? should the table leg slide into its respective hole in the table with a gentle push, or should it be so tight that it require a hammer to help it in? If it is too loose there will be a gap between the table and the leg even with the wedge, but too tight will squeeze out most of the glue making the joint weaker... any good tip on how to handle a circular wedge joint?
2. I have angled the table legs by 8.5 degree which mean that the hole I've drilled in the table top is slightly oval rather than circular. Atleast this is my assumed reason for why I have a hairline gap between the table leg and the table top. Any view on how to compensate for this? I guess one way would be to angle the wedge so that it expands the table leg in the "oval" direction... any other thoughts?
3. The wedge will be oak or cherry. However I'm planning to replace the top part of the wedge with a 3 mm x 3 mm x 30 mm strip of brass as design element. I'm planning to use Epoxy to hold the brass strip in place. Does this seem like the right approach?
4. I'm planning to finish the table with white oil - do I need to have a separate finish on the brass strips to stop oxidation?
I've attached a photo of a dry test of the table. In addition to a test joint that I've made (note wedge is just a quick and dirty version to test the look, I'll make the fitting better)
My first woodworking project is a oak table where I'm going to have the table legs connected to the table with a wedge joint (joint being visible through the table top). I have a few questions below that i hope might be able to help.
1. How tight should the wedge be? should the table leg slide into its respective hole in the table with a gentle push, or should it be so tight that it require a hammer to help it in? If it is too loose there will be a gap between the table and the leg even with the wedge, but too tight will squeeze out most of the glue making the joint weaker... any good tip on how to handle a circular wedge joint?
2. I have angled the table legs by 8.5 degree which mean that the hole I've drilled in the table top is slightly oval rather than circular. Atleast this is my assumed reason for why I have a hairline gap between the table leg and the table top. Any view on how to compensate for this? I guess one way would be to angle the wedge so that it expands the table leg in the "oval" direction... any other thoughts?
3. The wedge will be oak or cherry. However I'm planning to replace the top part of the wedge with a 3 mm x 3 mm x 30 mm strip of brass as design element. I'm planning to use Epoxy to hold the brass strip in place. Does this seem like the right approach?
4. I'm planning to finish the table with white oil - do I need to have a separate finish on the brass strips to stop oxidation?
I've attached a photo of a dry test of the table. In addition to a test joint that I've made (note wedge is just a quick and dirty version to test the look, I'll make the fitting better)