Oak Prices

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Baldhead

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Hi
I want to make a small coffee table for the wife in Oak, I think I can manage with about 1.5 cubic feet, what sort of price should I expect to pay per cubic foot?

TIA

BH
 
www.interestingtimbers.co.uk quote £36 per cubic foot for premium grade 1" sawn oak, rising to about £50 cu.ft. for 3" sawn. Character grade is a bit cheaper. There will be VAT and carriage charges on top of that. Planed timer will be at a fairly hefty premium.
 
Cheshirechappie

Thanks for that, I've been quoted £25.59 for 25mm and £26.60 for 32mm ex VAT per ft3, that seems like a good price however I don't know what grade it is.

Cheers

BH
 
there is oak and oak. i have found the prices to be very variable, depending whether it is prime, character, square edged or wayney. Also between suppliers. British hardwoods is worth a look, but carriage may spoil it on a single board.

where are you in the country?

factor in the wastage though, at least with square edged stuff you shouldnt lose that much at all, and if you can choose a board close to what you need, then you could save a bit that way. Also, dont scimp on the timber- it is worth paying a bit more for a nice board rather than the cheapest possible when you factor in the labour element of your project, and the years you will spend looking at the finished item.

If you get the merchant to cross cut it for you, it may go on a courier for not much money!
 
+1 for the above. Don't economise on timber - some years ago I did my bathroom ceiling in pine, and I used a piece with a bad blue water stain. I don't know why I did it, I had 100s of metres of the stuff. I thought no one'll notice, but every time from then on that I lay in the bath, all I saw in front of me was this stain. I doubt anyone else paid any attention to it but it didn't half irritate me.
 
Thanks for that Marcros, your right about the carriage charges, especially when buying a small amount.

I am not sure if the yard who quoted me will allow me to select the timber myself, and to be honest I am not really sure what to look for! I have amast a large number of tools over the years and have now decided to try some 'real' woodworking instead of the same old planters and things for the garden.

I will buy the best I can afford and no doubt I will be asking lots of questions on here as I plan/build the table I have in mind.

BH

BTW I live in the north of England bordering Scotland
 
phil.p":k6cmox0k said:
+1 for the above. Don't economise on timber - some years ago I did my bathroom ceiling in pine, and I used a piece with a bad blue water stain. I don't know why I did it, I had 100s of metres of the stuff. I thought no one'll notice, but every time from then on that I lay in the bath, all I saw in front of me was this stain. I doubt anyone else paid any attention to it but it didn't half irritate me.
Thanks Phil

20+ years ago I made a small table in mahogany, I bought the timber dressed to my sizes, and armed with a plane and a Black and Decker router and tools I borrowed I cut mortise and tenon joints, dovetails on the drawer sides and finished the table to acceptable standard. Cash was very tight in those days with one wage and two children at school, so when it came to buying a drawer handle we cut corners and bought a horrible plastic thing which actually looks worse than it sounds, I will never make that mistake again (not knowingly anyhow)

BH
 
well, start with working out what sizes you need each of the pieces to be. I have limited experience, but I can remember buying my first lot and being in the same position! Tick each piece off as you account for it. I take a piece of chalk with me and mark it on the board if it is one i am going to take. If for example i can get 3 legs from a board, i divide it roughly into thirds by eye and put an L in each section.

I try not to have to get everything from a massive board- I would rather take 2 6" boards than a 12" one if possible- it is easier to handle, and tends to be flatter. Sometimes of course you need the larger one! Add a bit to each for wastage so you can trim to size later etc. Then look at the timber in the stack. you want something that looks straight, reasonably flat and not twisted. Take your time and you will soon see what to look for. If you look at the end of the pack, you can target boards to look at. If you want a 6" one, look for a 6" one and see what it is like. You want, ideally a board that is know free- unless you want the knots as a feature- or failing that enough area on the board so that you can take the bits that you need and avoid the knots.

The yard should knock off the defects from the measure. Not all do- I bought Prime Euro Oak recently, and they just used the fact that it had been classified when imported and so everything was in spec. I think that was a bit naughty, and I didnt realise until I got it home, but it wasnt actually bad stuff. There is a thread of mine called "yellow stain", or something like that. In that, somebody links to a defect document that shows you some of the potential problems- worth a look. If the wood looks good, then it probably is. Beware that sawn hardwood often looks grubby, and may have some water stains, marks, paint on the end of boards. This all comes out when planed but it can be shocking when you first see it. Look on some of the WIP threads- the box making one somebody used some chestnut I think that looked rough in the sawn form, and fantastic when planed- that shows the difference well.

Dont be rushed, but likewise dont try to spend all day finding a perfect board. You will send yourself crazy, and it is only oak. If it was walnut for a gun stock etc then it is a bit more tricky!

Why not put a picture up of what you plan to build, with some sizes on and I will talk you through my thought process on buying the timber. It works for me, others may do it differently.
 
phil.p":3tt5at9x said:
Don't economise on timber

I couldn't agree more.

I guess you're not making a small coffee table to save money; Ikea, Ebay, or an upturned cardboard box are all cheaper options. I'd guess you're making something because it's special, different, better, more satisfying, personal, or more satisfying.

And IMO the single best way of differentiating your coffee table from a mass produced alternative is with the care put into timber selection.
 
custard":z4htziik said:
phil.p":z4htziik said:
Don't economise on timber

I couldn't agree more.

I guess you're not making a small coffee table to save money; Ikea, Ebay, or an upturned cardboard box are all cheaper options. I'd guess you're making something because it's special, different, better, more satisfying, personal, or more satisfying.

And IMO the single best way of differentiating your coffee table from a mass produced alternative is with the care put into timber selection.

Absolutely. And if you can't afford quarter-sawn oak (Which is the only real choice, at least for the top) find a timber yard that will let you pick out a 'centre-board' from a 'through sawn' bole.

HTH :D
 
Hi Baldhead

You might be nearish to Langley Furniture Works who sell native dried hardwood timber. They have a website. Not cheap but good quality.
 
John51":2tx8seeg said:
How much does a cubic foot of oak weigh?

Reason I ask is that British Hardwoods do a hobby pack, 20kg of oak delivered for £28. Good value?

http://www.britishhardwoods.co.uk/solid ... -pack.html

Are you sure - website is quoting £24 delivery to me and I only live 5 miles away !!

Try adding a pack to the basket and get a delivery quote (bottom left of your basket contents)
 
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