NVR switches

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halken

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follow the link i havnt seen them this cheap anywhere

ebay link

could be one for all those who bought triton routers (like me ) and want to fit them to a table
 
halken":yykegyhw said:
follow the link i havnt seen them this cheap anywhere

ebay link
could be one for all those who bought triton routers (like me ) and want to fit them to a table

The NVR switch in the link has a max of 2000 Watts, the big Triton router has a 2400 watt motor.
 
would a difference of 400w between the switch and the router be that important would the switch not handle the extra wattage
 
halken":1ru20rqo said:
would a difference of 400w between the switch and the router be that important would the switch not handle the extra wattage

I don't know enough about electrics to answer that but there is another thread running at the moment on wiring up an NVR switch and 9fingers and the others seem to know what they are talking about and I'm sure they will keep you right. I'm interested in the answer too as I have a 2000 Watt router in my table but no NVR switch and the ones you linked to look just the job if they can handle the current.
 
Kenny! The switch rating is always a bit on the conservative side. I'd use it, what normally causes switch contact failure is the arcing when the contacts open on switch off. At that point the router is on low load and won't be drawing 2400 watts.

Roy.
 
Thanks for making us aware of these Kenny. I too have purchased one for the same reason and was amazed to see that 6 were still available this morning. The Trend website is offering what appears to be the exact same item at some £45.00 inc VAT.
 
Yeah, well! Trend seem to have a direct line to a money tree!

Roy.
 
This is a difficult one to judge. We don't know what particular compromise in the switch design has led the makers to specify it at 2000 watts

It certainly won't be the absolute power being switched.

In some cases it might be the continuous current being drawn and in which case very few domestic routers are going to be worked at full load for long periods enough to heat up the switch contacts - so probably ok

If however the limit is due to the contact materials and the effect of the high voltage spark when turning on and off (particularly the latter) then the contacts will gradually be eroded away, leading to high resistance and the heat generated for a given load will increase leading to early failure. so not a good idea to use it

There will be design and manufacturing tolerances and the rating will be based on the worst case - so the switch is quite likely to be fine.

What would I do? Possibly buy two, keep one as a spare and keep an eye on the switch to see if it gets warm after long heavy routing sessions. If all is well - then fine. If it does fail then it is an easy swap with no need to change the mountings etc.

To be really sure then always use an adequately rated switch, or do as I would and get used to how it behaves and note if behavior changes and investigate before anything dramatic happens in the middle of a time critical job.

If you are making your living using this router, then don't compromise. Machine downtime will cost you much more than the savings on an inferior switch.

HTH

Bob
 
If you look again at the listing, you'll see they mention it is an End of Line product which will only be available while stocks last - I guess that explains the price. :)

But, that's irrelevant really as they no do appear to be sold out, much to my disappointment as I'm planning on building my own router table "this year" too. :(
 
Alternatively, these ones from Charnwood are the cheapest I've seen around. And, they're rated up to 2,200w.

:D
 
Mine arrived today and seems okay though for information it is not as illustrated. The tool socket is actually in the back of the switch box and not on a cord + the red panic button is not mushroom style, but as long as it works I have no current plans to sue...
 
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