Newcomer to Woodwork: Questions on projects and tools

[AndyT]

Just to clarify if you are looking at buying timber from Wickes, B&Q etc. (Apologies to the experts if I over-simplifying here.)
Softwood in the UK is sold in metric measurements but the standard sizes available cling to some of the old inch sizes and are still colloquially called by their inch sizes. Go to a timber merchant and ask for 2 x 4 and they'll know what you mean; look at a website and it won't.

Inch sizes are approximately the size the wood was when it was sawn. Planing it smooth removes some wood, but it will still be known by the size it started.

So your 2 x 4 won't be 51mm x 102mm after it's planed, it will be something like 44mm x 94mm.

The DIY stores will describe it that way - they don't want confused customers complaining that it's undersized!

Lengths fall into standard sizes based on a 300mm module, so for an 8 foot length, look for 2.4m.

 

[gedwood]

Welcome to the wonderful world of wood. When buying tools buy the best you can afford. Cheap tool can be dangerous and will not maintain a sharp edge for very long. Most people who come on these sites are normally very helpful. read read and read some more There are loads of books dvds and monthly mags that will help you. Visit woodworking shows they go on all year around the country _You can watch the experts at work and ask questions. But above all remember the absolute golden rules of woodwork ALWAYS HAVE YOUR HAND/FINGERS BEHIND THE BLADE. 2. MEASURE TWICE CUT ONCE. 3. A DULL BLADE IS A DANGEROUS BLADE.-Good luck but most of all enjoy yourself GEDWOOD.

 

[Jacob]

.............. Cheap tools can be dangerous

No they can't! How could they be?

and will not maintain a sharp edge for very long.

Surprisingly many do. But in any case a bit of sharpening practice is good for a beginner! The problem with cheap tools is rarely the steel itself, it's more to do with design and build quality, especially the complicated ones like planes.
Don't go mad on posh tools and don't forget to buy some wood!

 

[cadders75]

.............. Cheap tools can be dangerous

No they can't! How could they be?

and will not maintain a sharp edge for very long.

Surprisingly many do. But in any case a bit of sharpening practice is good for a beginner! The problem with cheap tools is rarely the steel itself, it's more to do with design and build quality, especially the complicated ones like planes.
Don't go mad on posh tools and don't forget to buy some wood!

Or a complete beginner could spend ages dicking around trying to make tools he doesn't understand, work in a way they should do, Which is a lot harder when you have probably never sharpened a set of chisels or even used them in anger before. Better to buy a reasonable new (not LNs or AIs yet) set and learn on those, that way you spend more time working with wood and less time working on your tools.

The Narex set for £45 for 6 from Workshop heaven seem a good starter set, they are of a known decent quality and cheap for a decent tool, but just buying a couple of individual chisels may well be a better way to start.

Buying second hand chisels as a starter can be an exercise in frustration, because you don't know what to avoid and you don't know what is desirable in a second hand tool. Buy a set new (my 1st set were a Bahco set £20 for 3) and an eclipse jig to sharpen them, as you get used to how they work and how to keep them sharp you can start to get an understanding of what you want in a tool, which makes it easier to buy 2nd hand tools, I personally don't think it's worth the hassle of buying 2nd hand chisels to be honest you spend ages getting them to work properly pick a brand you like and buy one a month till you have as many as you desire.

If you see one of the chisel sets from Aldi, snap those up as they seem to be good steel I've been using a set for years as paring chisels, they seem to keep an edge well, the handles would be uncomfortable for anyone with small hands mind.

2nd hand Planes are a good idea however, a number Record or Stanley 5 or 5 1/2 is ideal if you can get one and if you have the confidence to sharpen the blade and set it up. If not don't be tempted by cheap knock offs (anants, Silverline or modern stanley Handymans) as they are rubbish and they will discourage you when you get poor results.

Jacobs points are good when you have developed an initial set of skills and some understanding of what you want or need to have in terms of tools, but start with a reasonable set of new gear and you will find it easier to progress to 2nd hand tools later wasting less time and money in the long run.

I use standard hardpoint Saws for big cuts and Japanese saws for any fine work, You will invariably end up buying several kinds of saws till you find one you like. For a starter I'd stay away from saws you can sharpen until you have built up a better set of skills.

 

[barkwindjammer]

The answer is in Jacobs signature (IMHO)
"it's not about the tools"

Its about technique, - in laymans terms -the more you fanny about with wood of different types-the more you will learn ! :wink:

 

[TheWizardofOdds]

.......Now maybe it's me being thick but I couldn't find eight feet two by four? The timber is cut into forty nine and forty seven inch pieces so thats no big deal but no two by four? My aim is to get the wood from a local saw mill if they'll sell small amounts of wood to non trade anyway.

Just buy a few lengths of 2x4 structural timber from a builders merchant, for your saw horses. Cheapest so doesn't matter too much if you get it wrong. Always buy much more than you need then you have some leftover bits to fiddle about with.

.....
I'm not going to get into the whole which chisel should I buy dilemma? But I will ask, Is it better to buy say a set of four like 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and 1" chisels at sixty quid or buy one sexy 1/2 " at sixty quid and add to that when I can?

Buy cheapies or second hand - you don't get much more for the money if you buy expensive ones. Those four sizes are good, doesn't have to be a set. I bought a £15 set of 6 from Axminster* and there is nothing wrong with them, except they don't look very nice.

NB don't go japanese - the tools are expensive and saws are unsharpenable- for enthusiasts only!

PS* I see they've gone up a bit. Still cheap. There are cheaper available. 2nd hand chisels are often only £2 or so on ebay. Spend the money you save on wood - that's the important bit, any old tools will do (within reason).

It's nice to hear that I don't have to spend a fortune on tools, and i've decided to leave the japanese tools alone at least until I have an idea of what I'm doing.

Just to clarify if you are looking at buying timber from Wickes, B&Q etc. (Apologies to the experts if I over-simplifying here.)
Softwood in the UK is sold in metric measurements but the standard sizes available cling to some of the old inch sizes and are still colloquially called by their inch sizes. Go to a timber merchant and ask for 2 x 4 and they'll know what you mean; look at a website and it won't.

Inch sizes are approximately the size the wood was when it was sawn. Planing it smooth removes some wood, but it will still be known by the size it started.

So your 2 x 4 won't be 51mm x 102mm after it's planed, it will be something like 44mm x 94mm.

The DIY stores will describe it that way - they don't want confused customers complaining that it's undersized!

Lengths fall into standard sizes based on a 300mm module, so for an 8 foot length, look for 2.4m.

I see. It's not that great for novices, If I'm following a plan and it says use cuts this or that size and in reality the wood I buy is not that size, what good is the plan?

My god, I'd have to think for myself. :lol:

Welcome to the wonderful world of wood. When buying tools buy the best you can afford. Cheap tool can be dangerous and will not maintain a sharp edge for very long. Most people who come on these sites are normally very helpful. read read and read some more There are loads of books dvds and monthly mags that will help you. Visit woodworking shows they go on all year around the country _You can watch the experts at work and ask questions. But above all remember the absolute golden rules of woodwork ALWAYS HAVE YOUR HAND/FINGERS BEHIND THE BLADE. 2. MEASURE TWICE CUT ONCE. 3. A DULL BLADE IS A DANGEROUS BLADE.-Good luck but most of all enjoy yourself GEDWOOD.

Thanks, good advice. It's not always easy to discern what you can afford though is it?

...Don't go mad on posh tools and don't forget to buy some wood!

Heheh. I can see how easy it would be to spend money on posh tools! Some of them really are beautiful objects in themselves.

...Or a complete beginner could spend ages dicking around trying to make tools he doesn't understand, work in a way they should do, Which is a lot harder when you have probably never sharpened a set of chisels or even used them in anger before. Better to buy a reasonable new (not LNs or AIs yet) set and learn on those, that way you spend more time working with wood and less time working on your tools.

The Narex set for £45 for 6 from Workshop heaven seem a good starter set, they are of a known decent quality and cheap for a decent tool, but just buying a couple of individual chisels may well be a better way to start.

Buying second hand chisels as a starter can be an exercise in frustration, because you don't know what to avoid and you don't know what is desirable in a second hand tool. Buy a set new (my 1st set were a Bahco set £20 for 3) and an eclipse jig to sharpen them, as you get used to how they work and how to keep them sharp you can start to get an understanding of what you want in a tool, which makes it easier to buy 2nd hand tools, I personally don't think it's worth the hassle of buying 2nd hand chisels to be honest you spend ages getting them to work properly pick a brand you like and buy one a month till you have as many as you desire.

If you see one of the chisel sets from Aldi, snap those up as they seem to be good steel I've been using a set for years as paring chisels, they seem to keep an edge well, the handles would be uncomfortable for anyone with small hands mind.

2nd hand Planes are a good idea however, a number Record or Stanley 5 or 5 1/2 is ideal if you can get one and if you have the confidence to sharpen the blade and set it up. If not don't be tempted by cheap knock offs (anants, Silverline or modern stanley Handymans) as they are rubbish and they will discourage you when you get poor results.

Jacobs points are good when you have developed an initial set of skills and some understanding of what you want or need to have in terms of tools, but start with a reasonable set of new gear and you will find it easier to progress to 2nd hand tools later wasting less time and money in the long run.

I use standard hardpoint Saws for big cuts and Japanese saws for any fine work, You will invariably end up buying several kinds of saws till you find one you like. For a starter I'd stay away from saws you can sharpen until you have built up a better set of skills.

I agree. I think weighing it all up that buying new is the only way for me to go until I understand more of what makes a good second hand tool. I might go with the Narex chisels or just buy a single chisel to start me off, I haven't really decided on that one yet.

If I'm going seconhand it will be a plane. I have The Essential Woodworker in my arsenal now and I think I could follow the instructions for setting up the plane etc. It's a lovely book, It is still going to be hard work following the instructions as it gets quite meaty early on in the book. I was expecting it to be much more simple. For most people it is, I just wasn't expecting to be stripping planes early on. :?

The answer is in Jacobs signature (IMHO)
"it's not about the tools"

Its about technique, - in laymans terms -the more you fanny about with wood of different types-the more you will learn ! :wink:

Again, good advice. It's easy to get bogged down in the whole which tool to buy business but essentially it comes down to application and perseverance.

I will fanny about. It's what I do best. :-k

 

[Cheshirechappie]

On the subject of 'The Essential Woodworker', stripping planes and getting them to make shavings (and flat, smooth bits of wood!) - don't panic!

I usually find that when learning from a book, I read the instructions, think I've understood them, go to it and get confused or make a right mess. Go back to book, read again - and suddenly, the bits that didn't make sense start to, as you now have a bit of (admittedly poor) experience to build on.

So - read, pile in and fail to make shavings, read again, pile in and make some shavings, read again, pile in and it'll start to make sense. It WILL start to come together, but it's a bit like learning to ride a bike - you fall off a time or two. Once it clicks, it's there for life.

 

[GazPal]

So - read, pile in and fail to make shavings, read again, pile in and make some shavings, read again, pile in and it'll start to make sense. It WILL start to come together, but it's a bit like learning to ride a bike - you fall off a time or two. Once it clicks, it's there for life.

Never a truer word written or spoken. :wink:

------------

In the event of building a toolkit from scratch, I'd suggest creating a shortlist of a basic set of tools to get you started and from which you can easily expand - if necessary - while leaving sufficient funds in the kitty for materials. You'll find suggestions ranging from second-hand, to budget, to top of the line pieces of kit, but the only person capable of making the final decisions is yourself.

A starter kit could include;

1. Handsaw - Irwin "Jack"
2. Tenon Saw - Irwin "Jack" 300mm
3. 16oz or 20oz Claw Hammer
4. 12oz Cross Pein Hammer
5. Set of 4 Bevel Edged Chisels - e.g. Stanley "5002". They take a respectable edge and whilst not super hard edged, they are extremely tough and capable of serving a lifetime of use.
6. Mallet 5" -
7. Combination Oil Stone - India 8"x2"
8. Screwdrivers - A selection of drivers that are comfortable in your hand.
9. Brace and set of bits (Incl. Countersink)
10. Combination Square - 12" Stanley or Bahco
12. Mortise Gauge
13. #04 Smoothing Plane
14. #05 Jack Plane
15. #09.1/2 Block Plane
16. Bradawl

All of the above can be picked up secondhand or brand new, but I'd definitely hesitate in recommending highly priced and prized Veritas, Lie-Nielsen, or Clifton handplanes unless you know you're in for the long run and can justify the cost. Match the tools you buy to the work you'll be undertaking.

17. 1/2" & 1/8" Plywood, plus hardware to make a joiner's toolbox for your tools.
18. A variety of clamps - "sash" & "f" clamps suited to the size of work you'll be undertaking.
19. Tape Measure - 3m

Follow Paul Sellers' guidelines and Jacob's saw horse layout and you'll seldom go far wrong. :wink:

 

[TheWizardofOdds]

On the subject of 'The Essential Woodworker', stripping planes and getting them to make shavings (and flat, smooth bits of wood!) - don't panic!

I usually find that when learning from a book, I read the instructions, think I've understood them, go to it and get confused or make a right mess. Go back to book, read again - and suddenly, the bits that didn't make sense start to, as you now have a bit of (admittedly poor) experience to build on.

So - read, pile in and fail to make shavings, read again, pile in and make some shavings, read again, pile in and it'll start to make sense. It WILL start to come together, but it's a bit like learning to ride a bike - you fall off a time or two. Once it clicks, it's there for life.

Thanks. I'm glad to hear somebody elses' thoughts on learning from a book. One thing I will do is persevere. I'm in it for the long run so I don't mind at all making a hash of it, it'll just make it all the sweeter when something comes together.

So - read, pile in and fail to make shavings, read again, pile in and make some shavings, read again, pile in and it'll start to make sense. It WILL start to come together, but it's a bit like learning to ride a bike - you fall off a time or two. Once it clicks, it's there for life.

Never a truer word written or spoken. :wink:

------------

In the event of building a toolkit from scratch, I'd suggest creating a shortlist of a basic set of tools to get you started and from which you can easily expand - if necessary - while leaving sufficient funds in the kitty for materials. You'll find suggestions ranging from second-hand, to budget, to top of the line pieces of kit, but the only person capable of making the final decisions is yourself.

A starter kit could include;

1. Handsaw - Irwin "Jack"
2. Tenon Saw - Irwin "Jack" 300mm
3. 16oz or 20oz Claw Hammer
4. 12oz Cross Pein Hammer
5. Set of 4 Bevel Edged Chisels - e.g. Stanley "5002". They take a respectable edge and whilst not super hard edged, they are extremely tough and capable of serving a lifetime of use.
6. Mallet 5" -
7. Combination Oil Stone - India 8"x2"
8. Screwdrivers - A selection of drivers that are comfortable in your hand.
9. Brace and set of bits (Incl. Countersink)
10. Combination Square - 12" Stanley or Bahco
12. Mortise Gauge
13. #04 Smoothing Plane
14. #05 Jack Plane
15. #09.1/2 Block Plane
16. Bradawl

All of the above can be picked up secondhand or brand new, but I'd definitely hesitate in recommending highly priced and prized Veritas, Lie-Nielsen, or Clifton handplanes unless you know you're in for the long run and can justify the cost. Match the tools you buy to the work you'll be undertaking.

17. 1/2" & 1/8" Plywood, plus hardware to make a joiner's toolbox for your tools.
18. A variety of clamps - "sash" & "f" clamps suited to the size of work you'll be undertaking.
19. Tape Measure - 3m

Follow Paul Sellers' guidelines and Jacob's saw horse layout and you'll seldom go far wrong. :wink:

Thanks for that. I've got a list on the PC of tools/equipment I think I'll need. It's really good to see someone elses' idea of a basic toolkit. I'm not too far off. I'm definitely not going crazy. Most of that list can be done on a very reasonable budget. It might take me a while to get there but I would like to have a reasonable kit together to get started. I won't be going anywhere near the Lie Nielsen, Veritas stuff. I'd like to get hold of a Record plane/s and use those with my Wearing book to learn the basics of stripping the plane and learning how it all goes together/sharpening etc. Hopefully I can have other projects to keep me going that require only the other tools listed.

 

[Jacob]

My list very similar to Gazpal.
This is what I was given when I was released:

Kit issued for Tops courses in carpentry and joinery 1982, with which you can just about everything!

1 toolbox - made your own, week 5.
5 1/2 Record jack plane
Sanderson & Kayser:
26" hand saw 6tpi
22" panel saw 10tpi
14" tenon saw 14tpi
3 Marples firmer chisels 1" 3/4" 1/2"
Rabone Combination square
Whitehill 24oz claw hammer
Nail pullers (Footprint)
sliding bevel (poor quality)
double sided oil stone - box made week 6
big screwdriver
little ratchet screwdriver
2 ft boxwood rule
nail punch
brace & bit
one 32mm bit for yale locks.
mallet
S&J carpenters axe
marking guage
bradawl
brass face marples spirit level
plumb bob
cork sanding block
pencils
coping saw

The first add ons would be block plane (stanley 220), tape measure, a few more chisels, mortice gauge, and so on.

Still got them all except the hammer which broke and ratchet SD wore out.

 

[nicguthrie]

I'm pretty new myself, so to welcome you to the world of woodwork seems like getting above my station! I don't want to seem combative to the rest of the community, but thought you got a little stomped in your choices back there, so I'm breaking my usual habit of lurking to comment

I've had the privilege of an experienced friend to lend a hand in learning my way, and there's heaps of things he's pointed out to me that have been very handy and probably a helluvva lot more to learn before I consider myself competent.

A main one is that another person's best tool for a job is not necessarily yours. Some would use a router and jig where someone else would use a saw and a plane, others insist one hand tool should be used where you find another is easier. It's a personal thing, if you find you work best with one method, do what feels right and most efficient and enjoyable.

You originally said you fancied Japanese saws, and sort of got discouraged from it. I love Japanese saws (as does my "mentor"), and I get better, more accurate cuts with them than any other hand saw. I'd not built up a habit or a "feel" for "normal" saws before starting, so there was no disadvantage there, and being lighter and usually a lot thinner in the blade, they push thru the wood with less effort - helps me a lot with the fact I have serious joint troubles. You may get a faster, more agressive cut with european style saws, but they all cut wood. If you like to use a particular type, opinions are opinions, use what you feel best with.

Just my tuppence worth. I'll go back to lurking now.

 

[Jacob]

Trouble with Jap saws is they are expensive but not sharpenable, so will cost a lot in the long run. Fashions come and go. You might as well by western hardpoints which will cut just as well but are a lot cheaper. In fact many of them have a Jap style of tooth.

 

[Harbo]

Jap saws start at £8 or so - hardly expensive?
I have yet to wear one out and the blades are sold separately.

Rod

 

[Jacob]

Jap saws start at £8 or so - hardly expensive?

Which ones are they? They all seem to be anything from £20 upwards, which is a lot for a throwaway saw.

I have yet to wear one out and the blades are sold separately.

Rod

Unfortunately the handle is the cheap bit!

 

[GazPal]

My list very similar to Gazpal.
This is what I was given when I was released:

Kit issued for Tops courses in carpentry and joinery 1982, with which you can just about everything!

1 toolbox - made your own, week 5.
5 1/2 Record jack plane
Sanderson & Kayser:
26" hand saw 6tpi
22" panel saw 10tpi
14" tenon saw 14tpi
3 Marples firmer chisels 1" 3/4" 1/2"
Rabone Combination square
Whitehill 24oz claw hammer
Nail pullers (Footprint)
sliding bevel (poor quality)
double sided oil stone - box made week 6
big screwdriver
little ratchet screwdriver
2 ft boxwood rule
nail punch
brace & bit
one 32mm bit for yale locks.
mallet
S&J carpenters axe
marking guage
bradawl
brass face marples spirit level
plumb bob
cork sanding block
pencils
coping saw

The first add ons would be block plane (stanley 220), tape measure, a few more chisels, mortice gauge, and so on.

Still got them all except the hammer which broke and ratchet SD wore out.

My first kit is much closer to yours than the one I listed and is still intact apart from my 22oz Stanley claw hammer which I replaced with a Stanley Steel Master and then Estwing. My hand saws of choice was the Spear & Jackson "88" lineup - which later changed title to it's "Professional" range - although I have a pretty decent selection of Disston and Sandvik saws too.

------------

It always pays to start off with a basic kit from which you can build as you begin to specialise in various types of project. An informed selection made using Jacob's and my lists should set you up very well and I think you're doing the right thing by avoiding the risk of over investing in the more expensive tools that are available today. They can always be included in your wish list and you'll still own a very respectable selection of tools without them.

My recommendations for initial projects would be;

1. Saw Horse x 2
2. Tool box
3. Workbench

The above three projects include and involve most of the joints and woodworking exercises necessary in future projects and are excellent practise pieces on which you can hone your skills.

 

[jimi43]

As the Spring comes you will find you want to get out an start making shavings and there is nothing more satisfying than making the next thing for the workshop to help you on your way. Saw horses are really useful but the (older type) Workmate is something I still use when I want to be out in the air and cut something up. I have three really original ones...bootfair jobbies...about a tenner each and they have been worth their weight in gold.

I built my workshop using these...I made my first bench cutting some serious heavy oak on these and I still use them for the odd job in the summer...last time to restore an old lawnmower.

Learn to sharpen..as Jacob says...stay simple and don't aim for razor sharp..just get a good oilstone like a Norton and some old chisels from a bootfair and practice. Stay with good steel names like Sorby, Ward, Marples...or old Stanleys with blue or black handles. These are still my most favourite chisels.

Saws...start with Andy's suggestion of hardpoint ones...as sharpening old saws is an art most people shy away from...with good reason!

Make a mallet...old bits of beech will do for now in the traditional style of a square head. Or pick one up from a bootfair for a quid!

I guarantee that if you get up reasonably early and stick a £20 in your pocket and buy some tools selectively (search "Bootfair" here to give you ideas what is good and what is not)....you will always come out with some gems...some good users and some tat! This will teach you very quickly what is tat and what is not! :wink:

Most of all...have fun! You will get great satisfaction out of making things and indeed...I still use my oak bench made from an old pair of doors...it's my friend now...although I would start all over again now I have the knowledge gained entirely from UKW....but then I guess we all think this as we become more experienced. That's life isn't it?

Jimi

 

[TheWizardofOdds]

My list very similar to Gazpal.
This is what I was given when I was released:

Kit issued for Tops courses in carpentry and joinery 1982, with which you can just about everything!

1 toolbox - made your own, week 5.
5 1/2 Record jack plane
Sanderson & Kayser:
26" hand saw 6tpi
22" panel saw 10tpi
14" tenon saw 14tpi
3 Marples firmer chisels 1" 3/4" 1/2"
Rabone Combination square
Whitehill 24oz claw hammer
Nail pullers (Footprint)
sliding bevel (poor quality)
double sided oil stone - box made week 6
big screwdriver
little ratchet screwdriver
2 ft boxwood rule
nail punch
brace & bit
one 32mm bit for yale locks.
mallet
S&J carpenters axe
marking guage
bradawl
brass face marples spirit level
plumb bob
cork sanding block
pencils
coping saw

The first add ons would be block plane (stanley 220), tape measure, a few more chisels, mortice gauge, and so on.

Still got them all except the hammer which broke and ratchet SD wore out.

That seems a good point to start from. Again, it's good to see peoples' idea of the initial tool kit. It means I can weed out the unecessary items and get a good picture of what is more or less essential.

...You originally said you fancied Japanese saws, and sort of got discouraged from it. I love Japanese saws (as does my "mentor"), and I get better, more accurate cuts with them than any other hand saw. I'd not built up a habit or a "feel" for "normal" saws before starting, so there was no disadvantage there, and being lighter and usually a lot thinner in the blade, they push thru the wood with less effort - helps me a lot with the fact I have serious joint troubles. You may get a faster, more agressive cut with european style saws, but they all cut wood. If you like to use a particular type, opinions are opinions, use what you feel best with.
Just my tuppence worth. I'll go back to lurking now.

Your thoughts are most welcome lurker! I take your point and yes, I have been discouraged from the japanese saw, but I have asked peoples' opinion and it seems the majority (at least the posters') prefer the european saw. I have to go with experience and to be honest I change my mind with every post! It's a very valid point that I would have no feel for either at the moment anyway so would have nothing to lose really. I'm still undecided. :roll:

...My recommendations for initial projects would be;

1. Saw Horse x 2
2. Tool box
3. Workbench

The above three projects include and involve most of the joints and woodworking exercises necessary in future projects and are excellent practise pieces on which you can hone your skills.[/quote

I was going to go with Sawhorses, maybe the small folding table from youtube somebody posted earler in the thread and then a workbench. The tool box will probably be in there too.

As the Spring comes you will find you want to get out an start making shavings and there is nothing more satisfying than making the next thing for the workshop to help you on your way. Saw horses are really useful but the (older type) Workmate is something I still use when I want to be out in the air and cut something up. I have three really original ones...bootfair jobbies...about a tenner each and they have been worth their weight in gold.

I built my workshop using these...I made my first bench cutting some serious heavy oak on these and I still use them for the odd job in the summer...last time to restore an old lawnmower.

Learn to sharpen..as Jacob says...stay simple and don't aim for razor sharp..just get a good oilstone like a Norton and some old chisels from a bootfair and practice. Stay with good steel names like Sorby, Ward, Marples...or old Stanleys with blue or black handles. These are still my most favourite chisels.

Saws...start with Andy's suggestion of hardpoint ones...as sharpening old saws is an art most people shy away from...with good reason!

Make a mallet...old bits of beech will do for now in the traditional style of a square head. Or pick one up from a bootfair for a quid!

I guarantee that if you get up reasonably early and stick a £20 in your pocket and buy some tools selectively (search "Bootfair" here to give you ideas what is good and what is not)....you will always come out with some gems...some good users and some tat! This will teach you very quickly what is tat and what is not! :wink:

Most of all...have fun! You will get great satisfaction out of making things and indeed...I still use my oak bench made from an old pair of doors...it's my friend now...although I would start all over again now I have the knowledge gained entirely from UKW....but then I guess we all think this as we become more experienced. That's life isn't it?

Jimi

What is the older style of Workmate Jimi? Is it a B&D one? I think you're perhaps the second person to champion them in this thread. They do seem cheap even as a stopgap. Thanks for the tips, duly noted.

 

[jimi43]

What is the older style of Workmate Jimi? Is it a B&D one? I think you're perhaps the second person to champion them in this thread. They do seem cheap even as a stopgap. Thanks for the tips, duly noted.

Yes mate...the older the better but at least this vintage or older than this one if possible...

I think this one was about £15...I can't remember but surprisingly good nick...been in a warm garage I'd expect...

They were much more robust in those days...unlike the tin or plastic ones you see in certain DIY outlets now.

Just to give you some idea...this lump of oak was so heavy it didn't need clamping to plane the crud off...

Best way to store them...get two bike hooks and hang them on the wall...they are a booger to store otherwise and invariably fall over onto the side of your car...next door's kid or the dog! :mrgreen:

Jim

 

[Harbo]

The older ones were even more heavier - made from cast aluminium and with a very thick top.

I have two of them ( one I bought and the other from my father). One of them is used as a temporary base for my router table but that as being going on for about 10yrs
I fitted mine with Record Bench Holdfasts which makes them even more useful.

Rod

 

[jimi43]

The older ones were even more heavier - made from cast aluminium and with a very thick top.

I have two of them ( one I bought and the other from my father). One of them is used as a temporary base for my router table but that as being going on for about 10yrs
I fitted mine with Record Bench Holdfasts which makes them even more useful.

Rod

Indeed. The one in the foreground is such a beast but unfortunately I don't have any decent pictures of it than just that glimpse.

Also sadly...it is not in quite the same nick as the later B&D one....

Jim