new oak handrail, outside, varnish?

[johnbb99]

I've thrown out the previous softwood mopstick hand rail that runs up the steps to our front door.
I have bought sanded but bare 45mm mopstick oak hand rail and stainless steel brackets.
My default plan was to 'varnish ' the oak with a low build treatment, and have a tin of OSMO UV Protection Oil (420 Clear satin) for that purpose, but could return it unopened.
Would you treat it or leave it untreated?

(I've read other posts re. screws, and have some A4 SS ones on order.)
But I wondered if anyone had tried using plastic plugs [as in masonry] to isolate plain steel screws from oak? I suppose it depends on whether there is enough moisture present to transfer the tannin to the steel and back into the wood to stain it.

Thanks,
John

 

[johnbb99]

No one?

 

[Geoff_S]

No expert but have had a bit of experience with using oak outside.

Garage doors first, that I made about 10 years ago. The advice I received was "No, no, no don't treat them, let them silver with age". well, they are still solid but look a right mess. Silver? If they are then they are severely tarnished!

So the next oak project was a side door. This time I used a Sadolin product, gloss varnish finish, 3 coats. It's been there a year now and
still looks as when I painted it on ..... except for a long black streak under the door knob that I assume has obviously got wet, rusted slightly and somehow the run off has penetrated the timber.

In a nutshell, I will never use oak outside unless I want a 100 year old rustic effect within 5 years or so!

But, I hold out some hope for the Sadolin :?

 

[AndyT]

I thought I had already posted this suggestion, but no, so here it is.

For a long thin spar, a varnish designed for the long thin wooden bits on boats could be the ideal answer. I posted here about a French product "Le Tonkinois" which I have had good results with

found-a-good-finish-for-outdoor-oak-t107328.html

Note that you will need to recoat it every couple of years, but this doesn't need stripping off the old, just a quick sanding.

Also, you need to buy it at a show or over the phone, not on a web form.

However, I expect the Osmo stuff you have would be suitable too - there's a product selector on the Osmo website where you could check that.

https://osmouk.com/sitechapter.cfm?chapter=110&page=0

 

[deema]

Made gates, doors and windows from oak, which have been positioned at all points of the compass. With proper run off angles, ie no flat surfaces I have used Osmo UV on al, if them. Some are coming up for 10 years old around my home and all look almost as good as the day they were made. I reciprocate every couple of years with Osmo. A quick sand over and I mean quick just to rough the surface and the. A quick wipe over with the oil. A large window takes about 15 minutes from start to finish, which I don’t think is a big deal.

Initially I apply 3 coats of Osmo, and it’s impirtant not to sand below 120 grit as specified. Everything must be stainless preferably 316 I.e not magnetic or the oak will start to go black after a few years around it. Oak gets harder with age and getting fittings out in a few years time is often a futile exercise. So make sure you use stuff that will last.

 

[Helvetica]

We treated our cedar cladding with Osmo, it’s a great product. Although It will give better uv protection if it has some colour stain as opposed to clear. Coat every year or two.


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