New clamp jaws for the Rat

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Hi Roger,

Let me try to recall…

First off, I have Elu 177's and a later DeWalt version of the same Model.

I scoured the manual, (A photocopied affair) but was still unsure I had the router in EXACTLY the right place, before I cut the hole to admit the cutter. This HAS to be concentric with the vertical axis of the router.

I could see no reference point in the manual. My enquiries with Geoff at Woodrat, elicited the response about having someone hold my hand.

I have been woodworking for 50 plus years, and I still cannot work out how to ensure the router is in the right place, before I drill mounting holes. Yes, I can use the the teflon base plate as a template. But how do I ensure the template is in the right place, before I cut the hole for the cutters? In other words, I can't find the exact centre of the plate! That is the problem I have. I don't want a plate with three or four trial cuts in it!!!

It might be me, but the Woodrat is about 8 years old now. Maybe things have moved on, since the photocopied manual I have.

I was considering selling the Woodrat anyhow, as I need a clear wall for it. I reserved space, but now, the space has been taken up by my Coronet Major (On castors, but nowhere to put that, whilst I work, except in the open air.)

Sorry to ramble on, but unless I can find the answer, an unused Woodrat will be up for grabs. :?

Cheers.
John
 
Here is a little tip from my website for centering the router onto the plate of your 'Rat.

Mounting your Router

If you own a DeWalt or one of the clones then the pre-drilled mounting holes are available to ensure that the router is fixed centrally on the sliding plate. Finding the central fixing for another type of router can easily be achieved by Dave R's method:-

" Take a scrap of wood about 3 inches long and a bit wider than the slot in the plate. Rabbet (rebate) the long edges to get a tight fit in the slot. Drill a 1/4" hole midway between the shoulders of the rabbet. Insert the block into the slot and install a 1/4" piece of rod or a drill bit in the router and stick it in the block. Now your router is centred."

Dave R WoodRat Forum

As you can see it was submitted by our very own design tutor Dave Richards.

Aldel
 
You don't have to fix the WoodRat to a wall. Make a couple of mounting brackets and fix them to some thick plywood. When needed hold the ply in your bench vise and drop the 'Rat onto it. Store the 'Rat on end to save space. There are other novel mounting methods described on my Rat web site.

Aldel
 
And this is the 'official' method from the Manual - but Aldel's / Dave's is undoubtedly the quicker and less fussy method!

WoodRat.jpg
 
John, am I reading this aright - there's no hole for the cutter to go through? :-s If all you've got is a blank plate then I can see the problem. I set up my 'Rat with a Bosch router more years ago than I care to recall and can't honestly say it required more than care and the woodworker's mantra of "measure three million times, cut once and pray".

Perplexed, Alf
 
Aye folks,

Thanks for the interest.

I don't have the plate to hand, and it would be a problem going to storage to get it. However, as far as I recall, there was a hole for the cutter. However, finding the centre of a pre-bored hole, is difficult, without reference points, or a degree in geometry (which I don't have.) So, therein lies my problem...

Aldel, thanks too. I was aware I didn't really need to put the jig on a wall, but I think this is the best place for it. Although things move on, of course. The diagram Richard included looks interesting, but there isn't anything like that in my manual. With that drawing to hand, I will try again, and see how I fare. Thanks for that my friend and my thanks to everyone who responded.

John :)
 
Noting your avatar, Alf... I thought I could comment on your blog. It seems maybe your blog isn't like mine! So, your avatar reminds me, I should make a sign for visitors and Jehovah's Witnesses, asking them not to creep up me whilst I am using the sawbench.

Mind you, it should teach me not to work with my back to the open garage door....

Richard, thanks for that info and I will take you up on the offer, and download the manual.

Thanks again folks.
John :D
 
waterhead37":1x9n9cy6 said:
Tony,
They certainly look solid. What jaws did you have before btw?

I find that sandpaper glued to the jaw faces is important as an aid to stopping the workpiece shifting.

Hi Chris

The old jaws were the standard light grey plastic ones. the main issue was the poor fit of the plastic that sits in the channel and holds the moving jaw on - so much play there that pieces would move off the extrusion face when i clamped them up
 
Hi Tony
I've had your 'Rat jaws on my mind for a while and would like to have to go at making some myself. I'm having a bit of trouble finding the aluminium - do you have any links I could use. Also, the dimensions of your aluminium angle would be handy too!
 

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