New Bench WIP - update 4 November - Finished

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Vinny

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I’ve a project that has to be completed by Christmas for an extremely discerning customer……….my 15 year old daughter. I’ve got to “redo” her bedroom, which was given a generous coat of “ikea” when we bought the house a couple of years ago. The Swedish menace furniture is too large for her room, and if theres one thing a 15yr old needs it’s space. So a cabin style bed, with integrated drawers and a pull out desk, a double wardrobe and a dressing table all have to be done before the big man comes in December.

First sticking point – the workshop. Until a fortnight ago there was plenty of work surface and storage but it wasn’t practical. Major problem was lack of assembly space. So out with the screwdriver and away to the shed with about half the benchwork and cupboards, the shed is now tidy !

So first project is to build a more suitable work bench, available budget is pretty much big enough to buy a sheet of 18mm MDF with which to finish the top off with.
I’ve some lengths of decking timber and some large “planks”, donated by a mate when he moved, for the frame work. Within the frame there will be power tool storage and an odds and sods cupboard. I would sketchup my idea but I fear the end result would be vastly different to the initial design. This is going to be a design in progress as well as a work in progress.


A selection of the materials:

IMG_0347.jpg



A few hours on the TS and P/T and I’m left with this: I’ve over estimated what I need to cater for design changes.

IMG_0348.jpg


I’m keen to try out some stuff I havn’t done before (something that doesn’t include pocket holes and biscuits) so the plan is to mortice and tenon all the frame joints. Hopefully the only screws on the whole build will be used to hold the mdf on top – we’ll see !
So on to the first tenons, fettled the cheap Axi SCMS so it was cutting straight and square then set the depth of cut, I’ll add here that I thought about cutting by hand, then didn’t think about it again.
Once the shoulders were cut I realised that there had been a fair bit of “flex” in the SCMS carriage, so although the shoulders were nice and square they were a tad deep, resulting in a skinny tenon. Not overly worried though as the frame will be well braced when complete so these first tenons won’t be overworked.
For the faces (is that the correct term ?)I put together a heath robinson jig and got the router out.

IMG_0349.jpg


First “skinny” tenons:

IMG_0350.jpg


Mortices were then marked out using a temperamental draper gauge (shiny marples one will arrive on Monday to replace it), drilled out on pedestal drill then finished with a chisel. I’m pretty chuffed with the result seeing as though it’s my first attempt.

First mortice.

IMG_0351.jpg


Snug fit:

IMG_0352.jpg


Only a couple of dozen more to go. New bandsaw arriving from Yandles some time next week, so cutting the tenons should be quicker than it is faffing around with the SCMS.

Vinny
 
Nice fit on the m&t shame the scms cut too deep. I've tried cutting tenons with the scms too and had the same problem. The depth control on most of them doesn't seem to be very good. The best tenons I make are done by hand, a suitably jigged router comes a close second though.
 
Managed a few more hours in the workshop and got all the M + T's done for one side, dry fit seemed OK. I'm going to have to do some "practice" assembly in preperation for the glue up.


IMG_0353.jpg


Ratchet straps for the dry fit - lots of clamps planned for the glue up.

IMG_0354.jpg


Vinny
 
Looking good, Vinny. Even though, those tenons are very skinny! :shock:

What is the depth stop like on your SCMS? If it's a bolt or length of threaded rod, you could try putting a couple of nuts on there to lock it off securely. Only problem then is that it makes fine adjustment more awkward.

You said you were buying a new bandsaw... Where are the photos??? :D
 
Olly

The SCMS has an allen bolt that does have a locking nut which serves as the depth stop. The problem with it is that there is a degree of "flex" in the carriage which results in a bit more downward motion when the depth stop is reached. The saw is a cheapish axi one that I got a couple of years ago for cutting 3 x 2 studwork on a utility room build in my house. It only has a single slide which I think is why it flexes. I see that Axminster don't do it any more - maybe thats why. My only option really is to get a Kapex ........Dear Santa, I've been a very good boy................ :roll: :wink:

Bandsaw arrived on Tuesday - BS350, (pic on the next update) like it a lot, it's my first BS so setting it up has been a bit trial and error - the manual is good, but not that good so I think Mr Maskery will be getting 50 of my hard earned sheckles in the very near future in order for me to literally get on the straight and narrow. It came with a 1/2 inch blade which I think is a bit skinny so am probably going to get a 3/4 inch one, but thats only after looking at Steves DVD's. Main problem I'm having is deciding whether I've tensioned the balde enough but I think thats for another time and perhaps another thread.

Vinny
 
I am NO expert at this but have to agree the tenons are VERY thin :shock:

I always thought you did 50/50 , 50% mortise hole .50% tenon

I am probably wrong :?
 
Blister

totally agree, but as I said before, the scms depth stop isn't the most accurate and the shoulders were all cut too deep. I didn't have enough spare stock to start again and I couldn't afford to lose the length if I cut the skinny ones off and started again. I don't forsee any problems at all with strength though as the frame is braced with other members (lots of them)

cheers for looking

vinny
 
Vinny":21we65ag said:
Blister

totally agree, but as I said before, the scms depth stop isn't the most accurate and the shoulders were all cut too deep. I didn't have enough spare stock to start again and I couldn't afford to lose the length if I cut the skinny ones off and started again. I don't forsee any problems at all with strength though as the frame is braced with other members (lots of them)

cheers for looking

vinny

Vinny, the other thing you could do is to reinforce each 90deg internal corner with some chunkable corner blocks, glued and screwed (same sort of thing as you see on the underside of dining chairs) - Rob
 
The bench will have multiple "other" braces along it s length and across its width. theres also a single piece mid shelf which will be 12mm ply and the top which will be 2 sheets of 18mm mdf. I'm also going to dowel the "skinny" tenons. So with all that, the fact that they are 2-3mm on the slim side will not be a problem.

Vinny
 
Blister":1pr202oz said:
I am NO expert at this but have to agree the tenons are VERY thin :shock:

I always thought you did 50/50 , 50% mortise hole .50% tenon

I am probably wrong :?

I was always taught 1/3 of the timber on either side of the mortice/tenon, making the mortice/tenon a 1/3 of the available width.

With the extra bracing mentioned though, it shouldn't be an issue.

Can't wait to see some more pics though....
 
If I was you Vinny I'd stop right there before any glue-up, those 'skinny' tenons are going to fail, its a pain in the seating area, butt, you might think about cutting the 'skinny' tenons flush, then cutting wider mortices into your rails and posts and using a loose tenon-this I think will save you the heartache later :wink:
 
More time in the workshop and 52 handcut M and T's later (the new bandsaw desperately needs some "adjustment) and we're at dry fit stage. Just got to rout some recesses in the central rails for a shelf then its titebond time.

IMG_0355.jpg


Have got a plan for the glue up, going to do it in stages but still going to have a couple of practice runs.
i'm going to use titebond 3, i'm sure I read somewhere that it has an open time of 20 mins, can anyone confirm this.

Cheers

Vinny
 
Vinny":b6rkwlf7 said:
I'm going to use titebond 3, i'm sure I read somewhere that it has an open time of 20 mins, can anyone confirm this.

Cheers

Vinny
V, that would be a max time I reckon...I'd work on around 10 minutes, but in this cooler weather, you ought to be OK. Just don't leave it significantly longer than 10 :wink: - Rob
 
Nice use of recycled wood!

Just one suggestion - it might be worth including some extra feet below your intermediate uprights, so the wood goes all the way down to the floor. That way, you get two extra-firm spots within the length of the bench, where you can happily bash away at the next lot of hand-cut mortices.
 
If you are worried about how long it will take you to get everything together consider using slow setting epoxy. You can easily have an open time to an hour. The other benefit is that if some of your joints are a little lose the epoxy is much more forgiving about filling the gap.
 
Vinny, looking good but before the glue gets squeezed I'd personally sacrifice the length of the anorexic tenons and redo them. Got to make sense in the long term.
 
wobblycogs":2qvhwtvx said:
If you are worried about how long it will take you to get everything together consider using slow setting epoxy. You can easily have an open time to an hour. The other benefit is that if some of your joints are a little lose the epoxy is much more forgiving about filling the gap.

I agree. Because you have so many joints, there is no way to get all together with appropriate clamping within 10-20 mins open time...

Cheers!

ER
 
Noel":30as1s82 said:
Vinny, looking good but before the glue gets squeezed I'd personally sacrifice the length of the anorexic tenons and redo them. Got to make sense in the long term.

I was wondering if there would be any benefit in reinforcing them with hardwood or even metal dowels ? Saving the need to drop a few inches.

I assume the concern is about lateral force rather than vertical snapping the tenon ?
 

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