Myford ML1 (i think!) assembly questions

[disco_monkey79]

Hiya, and I hope you are all having a good 2023 so far.

I picked up a small myford metal lathe, advertised as "for restoration". However, everything feels tight where it should, and moves where you'd want it to. So far the only thing I can see broken it the lock-down handle to stop/release the tailstock from moving back and forwards.

Anywho, it was dismantled when I got it, so I am figuring out correct reassembly.

This seems to be the only way to attach the pulley assembly, but can anyone confirm? In spite of the hundreds of pics on the interweb, I can't find any showing what I need.

 

[disco_monkey79]

Assuming I have got it right, then what is the purpose of the lever in the foreground?

This is it sitting at rest. The lever moves the pulleys further from the bed, so is of no help in changing to a different speed, as it would increase tension?? Or is it in belt-change position, and the lever tips it back so gravity puts the belt under tension?

Also, it came with this chuck. Is there a threaded bit that should bolt on (which I don't have), or is it simply for a different machine?

Thanks - this is my first metal lathe so I am learning as I go...

P. S. Can anyone tell me the length and type of belt to go from the pulley to the machine itself? It came with the long belt down to the motor, but not this one.

 

[wurglesnash357]

The Myford ML1, ML2, ML3 and ML4 are very closely related and there's a huge amount of information and practical experience available on the Model Engineer website :

Model Engineer

Start with a search for ML4 (the commonest model), and then ML3, then... and read, read, read. It will help you to identify yours, which - judging by the gear covers - I think is too late to be an ML1.

Your stand was intended for a treadle drive, or an underslung motor, and somebody has fitted a more recent drive arm on the back, so it quite possibly doesn't make sense as fitted.

The picture of your chuck doesn't show the back of it, but it would most likely need a backplate bolted to it with a boss containing the thread for the lathe spindle. (and identifying the thread you have is a bit of a minefield!). The tailstock didn't originally have a lever so you had to fumble round the back with a spanner to move it.

It's also worth doing some research on the lathes.co.uk website.

Les

 

[disco_monkey79]

Thanks, I will check out model engineer.
I had been on lathes.co.uk,and they pretty much slated the stand it came with, so I will make a bench in due course. I just want to get it running at the mo, so I can see what's needed etc etc.

P. S it was the early-style stand that made me think ml1, but it seems I may have a mongrel set-up, not that that bothers me - the boss approves, and that's good enough for me...

 

[Fergie 307]

Ml1 and 2 had the spindle bore machined drictly in the headstock, no caps. So the caps tell you its a 3 or 4, made just before the war. You have the earlier of the two tailstock designs, so probably a 3, but could be an early four, they are very similar. The lever i think you are referring to is to tension the belt. So you move the pulleys towards the machine to slacken the belt and move it to the desired position, then push it the other way to tension the belt for use. There will be an eccentric on the shaft which causes it to tighten and release as you move the lever. Be very careful tightening the bearing caps. Just nip them up very gently until the shaft starts to stick a bit, then back off about 1/4 turn and ensure it spins smoothly. If you overtighten them they will break! The head is held to the bed with a big nut under the spindle, and two small ones facing down at either side of the front of the casting. These allow you to align the head correctly with the bed. Nice old machine, have a look on e bay and you may get lucky and find a v belt pulley, which will make life much easier.

 

[Trextr7monkey]

I’ve had a few of these small myfords as well as a variety of Drummonds so if you are looking for specific pics I might have something relevant feel free to contact mematb
Mike

 

[Phill05]

If anyone needs a new leadscrew I have one spare, it is imperial size Overall 27 1/2" long x 5/8" dia with the gear end 10 1/8" long, screw part of 15" long x 8 TPI

 

[disco_monkey79]

Thanks for the replies, and the offers of pics. I think I have it together now. Will try to find a v pulley.

Thanks again

 

[Fergie 307]

You could have the existing flat pulley machined to turn it into a v type i should think. Long time since I have seen a flat one but I believe the pulley is solid. I can give you measurements from mine if it helps. Fairly straighforward to do so I wouldnt have thought it would cost a great deal if you can find a small engineering shop.

 

[disco_monkey79]

That's a good shout. I'll tap you up for the dimensions if I can find a place nearby who can help. Thanks

 

[disco_monkey79]

OK, so I found some spares (including a v belt pulley), and just waiting on some v belts to actually get the thing going.

I measured the thread, and it looks to be 1 1/8 x 12 tpi, which Google suggests is the size used on the Super 7s - which therefore seems logical, and handy for acquiring more accessories.

However, I have been unable to find a pre-drilled chuck backplate (I need thee holes to fix to the chuck I have). Is it normal to have to buy a blank and drill it oneself?

If so, how do I go about doing it super-accurately? I have a pillar drill, but the point of buying a lathe is to be able to machine more accurately, which I won't do if my drilling is out, and the chuck is off-centre...

Thanks

 

[J-G]

The holes you drill (& counterbore) in a backplate do not need to be close tolerence, they should have a small 'clearance' -- ie. if the bolts are (say) M6 then the holes should be 6.5mm Ø. This will allow a misplacement of ~0.5mm without causing a problem.

The registration should not rely upon the position of the bolt holes at all, that should be down to the 'registration spigot' (which should be close tolerence).

 

[disco_monkey79]

Great, thanks

 

[Fergie 307]

I would concur with JG. Once you have machined the index on the new backplate, then pactically speaking the easiest way to mark the holes is to put the chuck on the plate, then use a transfer punch to mark the plate through the holes in the chuck. You can make a transfer pumch by just using a bolt or rod that is a good fit in the hole in the chuck, and grind a point on it. As JG says algnment is down to the index on the backplate, the bolts just hold it on.