My challenge - Router table

[HudsonCarpentry]

Hello

I have recently started building a router table, i have mounted the router and worked out everything other then the best way to do the fence.

I have thought of an L shaped fence that i could clamp in the position i wanted but this could take time getting the fence in the right place and wouldn't be the strongest solution.

I have also thought of fixing the fence at one end on a spindle and just rotating it at the right distance needed for the cut, but this way could prove to be not very accurate and cause problems?

Do any of you have any ideas?

Also this project was a challenge, the terms are i have to build it with out spending a penny. every thing used has to be scrap material and fixings??

Thank you

 

[PowerTool]

On my (similarly "made for zero cost") router table,my fence is "L" shaped,and fastened to the table with small coach bolts and wingnuts.
The table has two pairs of mounting holes,and the fence is slotted - if the slots don't allow enough movement away from the router,I use the second set of holes.

Andrew

 

[HudsonCarpentry]

Sounds like a good idea, using a rail system would keep the fence paradell.

I don't have any wing nuts in so would break my challenge but im sure i could use M8 bolts and use Pronged Tee Nuts in some sort of handle to get round that.

Thank you!

 

[Niki]

Hi Hudson

First have a look at this post
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... hp?t=17546

And after that, go to this post
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... hp?t=17600

And to see how I modified the caliper, look here
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... hp?t=17702

Regards
niki

 

[Dave S]

Sounds like a good idea, using a rail system would keep the fence paradell.

Parallel to what? The bit is round. If you slide your timber against the fence, the cut will always be parallel to the edge which contacts the fence.:wink:
I've frequently used an L-shaped fence just held to the table with clamps. With care and taking test cuts to check, it is possible to adjust it accurately enough for just about anything I've ever done on a router table. In fact the simplest fence I've ever used must be an offcut of contiplas clamped to the table.

I've also used a fence which pivoted at one end as you described. It also can be adjusted quite accurately since adjustment at the bit will be roughly half the adjustment made at the end.

I'd say that either would do the trick - whilst it is possible to get quite fancy with a router table fence, a lot of the enhancements are 'nice to have' rather than 'absolutely essential' IMO.

HTH
Dave

 

[Niki]

Hi Dave

You are absolutely correct, the fence can be positioned in any direction

I'm positioning my fence parallel to the table edge only because of my "Bit-Fence distance" measuring method.

niki

 

[HudsonCarpentry]

Parallel to what? The bit is round. If you slide your timber against the fence, the cut will always be parallel to the edge which contacts the fence.:wink:

I want it parallel so that i can use jigs and sliders with it in a rail )like the mite fence you use in a table saw) if i cut the rail in the fence will have to be parallel to it!

Me and woodworking friend set each other challenges (just for fun, well loser buys the beer) so when where not at a job we have something to keep us busy.

The challenge for this router table was to make it using only spare material and fixings i already have and using only tools i already have (so not spending anything) the table had to have a way of attaching feather boards, have a fence and a way of using a mitre square from my table saw, be site portable and the router had to be detachable.

Thanks for the info everyone, and that one Niki made looks better then the one i brought, the T-Square is a great idea (better then a rail system i had in mind to do) i have also came up with my mates next challenge of a spindle sander.