Nearly ready to mount my Elu MOF96E on a home made base. Anything I need to know before I start drilling holes. Would a template make things easier if I can get one? Think I saw a diagram somewhere where the router was mounted at an angle to the fence, why would this be? I don't want my new top to look like a Swiss cheese due to getting holes in the wrong place!
Mounting MOF96E
- Thread starter woodpig
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Ed Bray
Established Member
By a home made base are you talking about a router table? The MOF96E has a maximum cutter size of 8mm and is quite underpowered for table use. I hope you bear this in mind when using it if that is the case.
Rather than drilling holes, if your table has a reasonably thin top, why not do like the "official" table for the MOF96 does, and use the guide rails on the router to fix it? Couple of pieces of hardwood glued/screwed to the underside of the table, with horizontal holes to take the guide rails and a set screw to hold them in place.
Can never understand why other tables don't use this system - it allows for really good fine adjustment or for sideways plunging of the router.
Can never understand why other tables don't use this system - it allows for really good fine adjustment or for sideways plunging of the router.
Ed Bray
Established Member
Doh!, yes I meant collet size. I've got one, permanently set up for my Leigh Jig.Rhossydd":aivnglyq said:
Not familiar with your Router but when fitting my T11 the issues that cropped up were:
- to position the mounting screws you can remove the base plate and use that as a template. In the absence of transfer punches the centre of the holes can be found using a brad point drill of the appropriate size.
- You'll need to countersink and/or counterbore the holes on the top, depending on the type of fixing screws used.
- If using above table height adjustment (e.g. Router raizer type accessory) you'll need to orientate the Router so that the hole above is clear of the fence and any lead-in pin.
- Many insert plates orientate the Router so that the widest part (usually the handles) is at 45 degrees to the fence (is this the angle you refer to ?) so as to minimise the space required to house the router. If space isn't an issue then you can ignore that practice and concentrate on ensuring that you have easy access to those bits you'll need access to e.g. speed control, spindle lock (if fitted), height adjustment etc.
- Even though I marked out the holes accurately and used a drill press, one of the 6mm holes (for M6 screws/bolts) was a smidgin off-line making the screws a little difficult to screw in. I found overboring to 1/4" (c.6.2mm) gave a very useful bit of wiggle room that didn't prevent the router from being held tightly in place once tightened up.
HTH.
- to position the mounting screws you can remove the base plate and use that as a template. In the absence of transfer punches the centre of the holes can be found using a brad point drill of the appropriate size.
- You'll need to countersink and/or counterbore the holes on the top, depending on the type of fixing screws used.
- If using above table height adjustment (e.g. Router raizer type accessory) you'll need to orientate the Router so that the hole above is clear of the fence and any lead-in pin.
- Many insert plates orientate the Router so that the widest part (usually the handles) is at 45 degrees to the fence (is this the angle you refer to ?) so as to minimise the space required to house the router. If space isn't an issue then you can ignore that practice and concentrate on ensuring that you have easy access to those bits you'll need access to e.g. speed control, spindle lock (if fitted), height adjustment etc.
- Even though I marked out the holes accurately and used a drill press, one of the 6mm holes (for M6 screws/bolts) was a smidgin off-line making the screws a little difficult to screw in. I found overboring to 1/4" (c.6.2mm) gave a very useful bit of wiggle room that didn't prevent the router from being held tightly in place once tightened up.
HTH.
mseries
Established Member
I have a 96E in a homemade table and followed the techniques that Mike S. outlined - using the phenolic plate as a template. I think some are mounted at an angle to the fence when they are mounted in a rectangular insert plate. In order to use a smaller plate, the widest part of the router is aligned to the widest part of the plate, the diagonal. I doubt it's 45 degrees as the plate is likely to be a rectangle not a square ! Mine is parallel to the fence and screwed directly to the underside of the table.
Thanks guys. Lots to think of. The table itself is made from 16mm thick laboratory bench top. It's a black composite of wood fibres and some type of resin. It's hard stuff but can be cut with wood working tools although it blunts them quicker than wood obviously. I plan to bolt the router directly to this to start and only use an insert at a later date if needed. I have the tools so was thinking of making something like the router raizer to fit my machine. Sounds like I need to consider this in placing the router. I'm so glad I asked you guys as it's not as simple as I first thought!
mseries
Established Member
My homemade table has a circular apperture large enough for the larges possible cutter. It is rebated and discs of MDF are fitted flush to reduce the apperture appropriately for whichever cutter I using. In practice I use one of three inserts. The underside of the table iwhere the router bolts in is recessed so my depth of cut isn't reduced by too much, the thickness at this point is 10mm IIRC.
There are some other pictures on my flickr page
There are some other pictures on my flickr page
woodpig":3qbp2ujy said:
Couldn't find one immediately, but pretty sure somewhere I have the instruction sheet, or at least sales literature, for it. Will hunt and if it turns up, will scan and post. Otherwise, it will have to be my poor camera skills!
