Mosaic Tiles on Elm

[davegw]

SWMBO wants to make a mosaic table top using a piece of waney edge elm I have in the Workshop that I haven't used yet (Yes I know, a lesson well learned!)

The elm is about 2.5" thick (635mm for those on the metric system). I was planning to rebate the top about 1/4" (6.35mm) for her to put the tiles in.

The mosaic will be made out of standard broken up kitchen and bathroom tiles.

Anything helpful hints (other than moving my wood store out of view!) greatly appreciated, such as what finishes, what glues for the tiles etc etc

She wants this as an outdoor feature so it needs to be weather proof

Thanks

Dave

 

[Steve Maskery]

Dave
I can get you out of this mess

You (and SWMBO) should be aware that elm is not regarded as a suitable timber for outdoor use. Iroko would be better.

There you are, you can make something proper with it now!

S

 

[davegw]

LOL

Unfortunatly that's not gonna work - this is the Lady, that despite several people explaining why it was a bad idea bought some really cheap pine outdoor furniture, that I now spend every couple of months treating

If Pine'll live there is no way I'll convince her that elm won't

 

[woodbloke]

Dave
I can get you out of this mess

You (and SWMBO) should be aware that elm is not regarded as a suitable timber for outdoor use. Iroko would be better.

There you are, you can make something proper with it now!

S

Steve - I disagree, Elm is very durable outside, the Romans used hollowed out elm logs for water pipes (hence the use of the term 'trunk route' for a main road), for centuries it was the timber of choice for coffins and was used extensively in the waggon and coach building trade, specially by wheelwrights. Probably not as durable as iroko or teak but certainly good to use outside.
For this particular application though, when it's outside it may warp and twist in the sunshine so anything stuck to it may well come adrift

Edit - Elm wood was valued for its interlocking grain, and consequent resistance to splitting, with significant uses in wheels, chair seats and coffins. The wood is also resistant to decay when permanently wet, and hollowed trunks were widely used as water pipes during the medieval period in Europe (Wikepedia)

Slight correction...resistant to decay when permanently wet - Rob

 

[paulm]

Would seem a bit of a waste of good timber if you don't mind me saying so Dave !

Wouldn't it be better to use a marine ply base and edge with elm, then you could save the majority of the timber for something better and avoid the movement that Rob mentions and that elm is notorious for ?

Just a thought.........

Cheers, Paul

 

[woodbloke]

Paul's right, it's far too good a timber to use as you suggest. Marine ply with a lipping of elm would be much more stable and allow you then to use the bulk of the timber for a decent indoor project - Rob

 

[Racers]

Hi, Dave

Tell us where you live and we will come round and steal it, problem solved, and we can remove all your tool so it never happens again :wink:


Pete

 

[jasonB]

You will need a flexible tile adhesive and flexible grout, something like BAL Mosaicfix and Superflex grout will be OK outside.

Jason

 

[Steve Maskery]

Slight correction...resistant to decay when permanently wet - Rob

Quite! A small but crucial point

S

 

[Mr T]

Hi Dave

You are going to route a recess for the mosaic to fit in. This will act as a water trap, the adhesive will deteriate, the tiles will start to fall out leaving gaps for more water, the elm will warp causing further tiles to fall out.

I don't think this project is a runner!

Chris

 

[jasonB]

The adhesive & grout I suggested will work in swimming pools so getting wet is not an issue. They are also BALs most flexible single part products so will allow for some wood movement.

The only thing to watch is that the tiles are not too porus as they will absorb moisture and the surface could spall with frost.

Jason

 

[CWatters]

I once built a tile top table out of blockboard. Glued on the tiles and left them to dry overnight in the garage. Next day the blockboard was as flat as the milenium dome :-( Don't forget to seal the wood with something first.

 

[davegw]

Thanks Guy's. I know it' hard for us to understand but I don't think I'll get the Ply idea past her (will try though)

You are going to route a recess for the mosaic to fit in. This will act as a water trap, the adhesive will deteriate, the tiles will start to fall out leaving gaps for more water, the elm will warp causing further tiles to fall out.

But wouldn't that happen with normal tile adhesive and grout in a standard Bathroom setting if that was the case? and I'll go with the two suggested by Jason

Tell us where you live and we will come round and steal it, problem solved, and we can remove all your tool so it never happens again Wink

Mmmmm - now why doesn't that sound like a good thing? Please ignore the information on the left, I am really based in a land far far away!

Iroko would be better.

Except I'm allergic and avoid it wherever possible - Trust me I'd rather use the Elm!

Thanks again for the help guy's - I'll let you know what happens (I'm hoping the my inactivity will win the argument in the end)