Ahh, I get it. 2 1/2 inches ahead of the abutment. I never considered where that line would be and instead just measured the desired front angle of the escapement and the desired wear angle and wear height.
More wooden plane making
- Thread starter richarnold
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Corneel
Established Member
It's good to know that the top of the bed line is always in the centre of the plane in the British design. The rest follows automatically from that. I didn't know that and I thought the mouth at 30 - 33% from the front was the critical starting point.
Continental planes often have the mouth further back. And that makes for a very funny placement of the handle of long German and French planes, almost on the heel of the plane.
Continental planes often have the mouth further back. And that makes for a very funny placement of the handle of long German and French planes, almost on the heel of the plane.
richarnold
Established Member
William Armour jack plane build. part 4
......."Then gauge the width of of the iron on the face, and allow 1 1/16" wider on top . Then gauge1/4"on each side of the front line of the cheek. Next take a chisel and mark with a slight blow to break the grain on top from the front line to the butment line, and from there to the bed line, do the same on the other side."......
......."Next, with a very strong gouge, and mallet, sink down to a level of the bed line and front line, using a guide from time to time to see that you do not go too deep."
I think this is one of the most useful pieces of Armour's work, as I find the gouge and mallet approach by far the quickest way of removing the majority of the waste.
......."Then gauge the width of of the iron on the face, and allow 1 1/16" wider on top . Then gauge1/4"on each side of the front line of the cheek. Next take a chisel and mark with a slight blow to break the grain on top from the front line to the butment line, and from there to the bed line, do the same on the other side."......
......."Next, with a very strong gouge, and mallet, sink down to a level of the bed line and front line, using a guide from time to time to see that you do not go too deep."
I think this is one of the most useful pieces of Armour's work, as I find the gouge and mallet approach by far the quickest way of removing the majority of the waste.
ac445ab
Established Member
richarnold":2t3sts5f said:......."Next, with a very strong gouge, and mallet, sink down to a level of the bed line and front line, using a guide from time to time to see that you do not go too deep."
I think this is one of the most useful pieces of Armour's work, as I find the gouge and mallet approach by far the quickest way of removing the majority of the waste.
[/url]
I never tried to use a gouge for removing the waste, What is the dimension and curvature of yours?
Giuliano
richarnold
Established Member
Hi Giuliano. Its about 16mm across, and has a medium curve. Its quite thick and strong as wellac445ab":37n5s45u said:richarnold":37n5s45u said:......."Next, with a very strong gouge, and mallet, sink down to a level of the bed line and front line, using a guide from time to time to see that you do not go too deep."
I think this is one of the most useful pieces of Armour's work, as I find the gouge and mallet approach by far the quickest way of removing the majority of the waste.
[/url]
I never tried to use a gouge for removing the waste, What is the dimension and curvature of yours?
Giuliano
ac445ab
Established Member
richarnold":mjog4s5j said:Hi Giuliano. Its about 16mm across, and has a medium curve. Its quite thick and strong as wellac445ab":mjog4s5j said:richarnold":mjog4s5j said:......."Next, with a very strong gouge, and mallet, sink down to a level of the bed line and front line, using a guide from time to time to see that you do not go too deep."
I think this is one of the most useful pieces of Armour's work, as I find the gouge and mallet approach by far the quickest way of removing the majority of the waste.
[/url]
I never tried to use a gouge for removing the waste, What is the dimension and curvature of yours?
Giuliano
Ok, thanks
I wondered if was not better to work the cheeks after to have near completed the throat, being sure the bed angle is correct; if this was not the case, it should be possible to correct more easily if the cheeks have not been definited yet.
Giuliano
richarnold
Established Member
William Armour jack plane build part 5
......."then bore with a 1/8" nose-bit from the centre of the mouth on the sole in a line with the bed line, care being taken not to come below the level of the bed"
From a personal point of view, I like to have the plane on its side during this operation, so I can eye down my marking out lines on the side.
.......Then take a small saw and cut to each side where gauged to size of iron....
It would be intresting to know what sort of saw Armour used at this point. My own preference is for a small Japanese key hole saw.
......then with a thin chisel knock away the wood to the bottom of the front. This is called the ware. Now we have an opening right through. ......
Armour makes this sound very straightforward, but I always find this to be the most taxing part of the build.
I have often wondered what sort of thin chisel Armour is referring to at this point. I use a combination of these three
......."then bore with a 1/8" nose-bit from the centre of the mouth on the sole in a line with the bed line, care being taken not to come below the level of the bed"
From a personal point of view, I like to have the plane on its side during this operation, so I can eye down my marking out lines on the side.
.......Then take a small saw and cut to each side where gauged to size of iron....
It would be intresting to know what sort of saw Armour used at this point. My own preference is for a small Japanese key hole saw.
......then with a thin chisel knock away the wood to the bottom of the front. This is called the ware. Now we have an opening right through. ......
Armour makes this sound very straightforward, but I always find this to be the most taxing part of the build.
I have often wondered what sort of thin chisel Armour is referring to at this point. I use a combination of these three
swagman
Established Member
The initial mortising out of the bed, wear angle, and secondary escarpment bevel have been completed. At this stage mortising out is contained within the outside abutment lines. The 3rd photo shows the dedicated block that will used to form the wedge abutments. The 4th photo shows some of the hand tool I am using. Chalking is used to fine tune flat surfacing work. Traditional plane maker floats are of limited value on this wooden plane build due to the higher janka rating of Australian Jarrah.
Australian Jarrah;1860 lbf
European Beech; 1450 lbf
American Beech; 1300 lbf
Australian Jarrah;1860 lbf
European Beech; 1450 lbf
American Beech; 1300 lbf
richarnold":20bbn6f8 said:
I agree with that (the most taxing). It can be downright violent to get the chisels out of the cut at the initial opening if they progress too far. I wax mine, but it's still an interesting experience. I drill the holes as close together as I can so that the waste can crumple, but it's still always violence.
(the modern shortcut without spending money, to me at least, is to use a good quality twist drill and lean it in the holes until they're all open, but someone building a first plane may be likely to have the end of the drill bit wander into their plane cheeks.
Looks great so far.
richarnold
Established Member
William Armour jack plane build part 6
.......next take a thin saw and cut in through the cheeks for the wedge on each side, then with a gentle tap with a small chisel will knock out the core......
At this point I use a converted Japanese saw, and a wooden wedge to give me guidance.
once the abutments are cut, the blade can be fitted to the bed. it is worth while spending some time flattening the reverse side of the iron. this will make fitting the iron much easier. I tend to use carbon paper between the blade and bed to show where the high spots are. most of the trimming is done with a large firmer chisel ground of at 90 degrees and used like a scraper. before any fitting is undertaken, a slot must be formed in the bed to accommodate the cap iron nut.
.......next take a thin saw and cut in through the cheeks for the wedge on each side, then with a gentle tap with a small chisel will knock out the core......
At this point I use a converted Japanese saw, and a wooden wedge to give me guidance.
once the abutments are cut, the blade can be fitted to the bed. it is worth while spending some time flattening the reverse side of the iron. this will make fitting the iron much easier. I tend to use carbon paper between the blade and bed to show where the high spots are. most of the trimming is done with a large firmer chisel ground of at 90 degrees and used like a scraper. before any fitting is undertaken, a slot must be formed in the bed to accommodate the cap iron nut.
swagman
Established Member
Sharpening Planemakers Edge Floats;
richarnold
Established Member
Jack plane build . Part 6
Once the iron is bedded it is time to fit the wedge. I use a chalk fitting method to check where the abutments, or wedge need easing.
Once the iron is bedded it is time to fit the wedge. I use a chalk fitting method to check where the abutments, or wedge need easing.
richarnold
Established Member
William Armour jack plane build part 7.
William Armour jack plane build.
.....with the wedge complete, we can now make the tote.
For this build the tote from a suitable 19th century plane was copied by first t aking a template, then cutting out a blank 1 1/8" wide.
.....with the tote blank roughed out a recess can be cut into the body, the bulk taken out with a brace and bit.
The tote is now ready to be fixed with some hot hide glue.
With chamfers gouge cuts, and boxwood strike button fitted, the plane is finished in the white.
Would Mr Armour approved? I hope so, but whatever, it's been an interesting journey.
William Armour jack plane build.
.....with the wedge complete, we can now make the tote.
For this build the tote from a suitable 19th century plane was copied by first t aking a template, then cutting out a blank 1 1/8" wide.
.....with the tote blank roughed out a recess can be cut into the body, the bulk taken out with a brace and bit.
The tote is now ready to be fixed with some hot hide glue.
With chamfers gouge cuts, and boxwood strike button fitted, the plane is finished in the white.
Would Mr Armour approved? I hope so, but whatever, it's been an interesting journey.
ac445ab
Established Member
The plane looks great and, as usual in your planes, it shows an original touch with that strike button.
How is it inserted in the plane body?
Ciao
Giuliano
How is it inserted in the plane body?
Ciao
Giuliano
richarnold
Established Member
Hi Giuliano.ac445ab":39berpb6 said:The plane looks great and, as usual in your planes, it shows an original touch with that strike button.
How is it inserted in the plane body?
Ciao
Giuliano
I prepair a length of boxwood to the tear drop profile, then mark the profile from this directly onto the plane, then using a combination of forstner bits and scribing gouges, I cut down about 3/4" deep. The strike button top is then shaped, and glued in with hot animal glue
richarnold
Established Member
Ha, well spotted.!D_W":1vm2g9v1 said:
swagman
Established Member
The fitting of the wooden wedge within its abutments has been completed.
