Model timbers

[woodpig]

I'm thinking about making a 1/48 scale Tudor house and I'm not sure what to do about the exposed "timbers". At 1/48 scale they are obviously quite small but I was thinking of using real Oak strip wood but the only place I can find (model shop) is out of stock of the sizes I need at the moment. I'm wondering if I got some Oak whether I could convert it on my band saw? Anyone tried cutting small stuff like that? I'll likely need some 2mm x 6mm and some square stock from 3mm up to 6mm. If anyone has done something similar I'd appreciate your thoughts!

 

[CHJ]

Google making wood stringing or similar, loads of instances, some very neat methods amongst the Japanese wood working fraternity.

Here's one example, not the best safety practice but shows a method.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HvxKrXYXc0g

I've seen similar methods used to produce basic stock that is then drawn through a fixed blade riving knife block to thickness.

Regarding using specific woods, I think you will struggle to use actual species at that scale as the natural grain structure of Oak for instance is getting close to your scale dimensions.

 

[custard]

You have to be a bit careful because even though the scale shrinks the grain and surface appearance of a specific timber stays exactly the same. i've hit this problem when making furniture maquettes at 1:8, so I guess 1:48 would be even more extreme. Oak is especially difficult because it's such a coarse grained timber that the grain would dominate a 2x6mm section. One option is to use a very fine grained timber, Maple, Pear, Boxwood, Holly, or Ramin for example, and dye it to resemble Oak.

There's no problem cutting 2x6mm on a bandsaw. Cut it slightly oversize, hold one end flat on the bench and plane away from your finger with a block plane. That's how I prepare inlay stringing which can go down to 0.8mm.

I've actually just cut some 5mm thick Sycamore veneers which are very white, fine grained, and perfect for dying. If you PM me I'd be happy to send you a section for you to experiment with plus some Oak off-cuts.

Good luck!

 

[woodpig]

Thanks both for your comments. Regarding the grain structure I want it to look fairly rough and weathered, as oak would be after a couple of hundred years so I don't think a fine grain will be required. I plan to dye the strips a grey/brown shade. Thinking about it I've got quite a few bowl/ spindle blanks in a variety of woods so I guess I need to put some through the saw and see what I get! Thanks again.

 

[Paul Dye]

I made one of these jigs, worked well for me, to cut thin edging. If the wood that you decide to use is 6mm thick then you could rip off 3mm strips

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZPOarBVxSk

Good luck

 

[Cheshirechappie]

One timber that is much beloved of model-makers is lime. It's very easy to work, the grain is tight and looks 'scale'. I think it can be purchased from modelmakers' suppliers in small sections, but at a fair cost. Another option for anybody with a bandsaw is a carver's block or turning blanks, both of which would work out much more economical.

 

[woodpig]

Thanks for that link Paul, it's reminded me I made this up some years ago, could come in handy!

 

[rafezetter]

You have to be a bit careful because even though the scale shrinks the grain and surface appearance of a specific timber stays exactly the same. i've hit this problem when making furniture maquettes at 1:8, so I guess 1:48 would be even more extreme. Oak is especially difficult because it's such a coarse grained timber that the grain would dominate a 2x6mm section. One option is to use a very fine grained timber, Maple, Pear, Boxwood, Holly, or Ramin for example, and dye it to resemble Oak.

Good luck!

two words.... bonsai tree.

Having said that, I have a whole bunch of small ramin slats (along with the rest if it) rescued from an outside patio set that was going to be burned!

You are welcome to a few or many for the cost of postage.