Mitre joint advice needed.

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JJ1

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I'm just about to begin making a nice maple and walnut pencil box as a gift for someone. I would like to use mitred corners with contrasting splines. I've made a couple of much larger boxes before and used my TS55 track saw for cutting the 45 degree mitred corners and it worked quite well, however, I find it very awkward for such a small box and a bit like using a sledgehammer to crack a nut.
I don't own a table saw or a sliding compound mitre saw but I do have a table mounted router. I was thinking of purchasing a bevel cutter router bit for cutting the joints such as the T916B-1/2, a further search came up with the T128-1/2 for a very similar price but a slightly longer cutting edge.
Would either cutter be suitable for cutting accurate mitres?

Any advice on the above would be much appreciated, thanks.
 
Should work ok but you might need backer pieces to avoid tear out on the top surface and a push block and clamp to hold the work.
it is very bad practise to use the zero width sharp cut edge as a guide on the fence.
 
Thanks everyone for your help, much appreciated. Looking forward to making a Donkey's Ear Shooting Board 8)
 
An alternative if you want to use the router is a mitre lock bit. May not give you the look you are after though. The Donkeys Ear shooting board is simple and often the simple solutions are the best.
 
The hand tool option would work, no doubt, but if you haven't taken this path already it would be a
costlier option. More than a router bit, in any case.
 
but if you haven't taken this path already it would be a
costlier option

I already have plenty of suitable hand planes and also MDF and hardwood off cuts, so it'll actually cost much less than buying a new router bit, which is a nice bonus.
 
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