Minimum door linings for solid internal doors

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OK, after a week or more of 'pondering' I think I'm settling on pulling the walls down and rebuilding better stud walls. I've had a further poke at the door lining of the bathroom today. The 2x1 batten that the door lining is 'fixed' to moves all over the place. I'm guessing the plasterboard was the main factor keeping it in place.
I think any 'making good' of this construction is just going to lead to more problems.

It's going to be a bit of a job, and I'm not quite sure how I'll be getting rid of all the old plasterboard yet, but think it's better in the long run. (We plan on staying in this house for the foreseeable future)
 

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OK, after a week or more of 'pondering' I think I'm settling on pulling the walls down and rebuilding better stud walls.
There is no point hanging a door on an unstable wall, any remedial work will be like stacking plasters on a bad cut that really needs stitching. I always think it is better and cheaper to do a job right first time rather than having to revisit it later to repair and you will also have the freedom to alter the size and layout with new walls. As for the old plasterboard just bag it up and your local recycling centre should have a dedicated bin for it, our local one does.
 
That's exactly how I'm thinking. The walls look like a bodge to start with. Just tacking onto that is going to be a bodge on top of a bodge. I'd feel much happier in the long run about having a decent foundation to start with, even if it does mean a slightly larger outlay.
In terms getting rid of the plasterboard, ideally I'd have liked to get a skip/hippo bag, but we live on a private road where access isn't possible.
I can take to the tip in my van, but the costs to dispose are pretty hefty, so just thinking of the effective way to get rid. They'll be quite a bit coming out!
 
That's exactly how I'm thinking. The walls look like a bodge to start with. Just tacking onto that is going to be a bodge on top of a bodge. I'd feel much happier in the long run about having a decent foundation to start with, even if it does mean a slightly larger outlay.
In terms getting rid of the plasterboard, ideally I'd have liked to get a skip/hippo bag, but we live on a private road where access isn't possible.
I can take to the tip in my van, but the costs to dispose are pretty hefty, so just thinking of the effective way to get rid. They'll be quite a bit coming out!

As far as disposal goes, local to me there's a nice guy who does 1100L bins for £40 per empty. he's fully licensed. Like biffa but small and private . They'll take just about anything ! They come in a transit tipper cage van and empty the bin by hand

Works out cheaper than a skip per cubic meter

Might be worth getting on the phone making a few calls seeing what you can find local
 
I can take to the tip in my van, but the costs to dispose are pretty hefty,
I know it is easier just to fill a skip but using small bags from screwfix NDC Polipak Mini Skip Bag 500 x 500mm just fill them neatly with smaller pieces and then take down the tip in your car boot so this cannot be classed as trade waste. A little more effort but could save some money.
 
Thanks @SamG340 and @Spectric - both good suggestions. A 1100l wheelie bin might be useful, especially if I can wheel it down to the end of the road for collection. Thinking about it, I could knock up a flat trolley bed to wheel a bigger hippo bag out. Good to know the options.

My final concern is around the safety and structure upstairs. All the internal walls are this type of construction. (see the plan on page 1). As these are all 'stud' walls, I'm assuming (probably not the best idea) that they can ll be ripped out and replaced at once. Obviously don't want to start removing them all and find the loft falls in on me!
 
I would think that if they were structural support walls then the roof would have collapsed by now so just check what type of roof trusses are fitted. They are probably finks type trusses which are just supported on the outside walls and are designed to have long spans.
 
There is no point hanging a door on an unstable wall, any remedial work will be like stacking plasters on a bad cut that really needs stitching. I always think it is better and cheaper to do a job right first time rather than having to revisit it later to repair and you will also have the freedom to alter the size and layout with new walls. As for the old plasterboard just bag it up and your local recycling centre should have a dedicated bin for it, our local one does.
The ones in Manchester are all privatly run ie Amey etc and the will only take a small amount at a time with the mass use of drywall in past years we are heading for a problem in the future . If thepoor people who are reduced to living in cardboard boxes read this post they will think they could be worse off in modern housing
 
I would think that if they were structural support walls then the roof would have collapsed by now so just check what type of roof trusses are fitted. They are probably finks type trusses which are just supported on the outside walls and are designed to have long spans.
Yes, they are indeed fink trusses. Should be fine I imagine.
Thank you @Thingybob - can't say I'm over the moon about doing it, but hopefully a little more planning and I'll feel a bit happier about where I'm heading with it.
Might have a look at floor plans over the weekend and see if there's anyway to optimise the layouts slightly. I have a feeling that they're already maximising the space as it is though.
 
Thought I’d give a little update on this. After much thought, mulling, measuring and planning, I decided not to pull down the walls.

Instead I’ve cut out the existing door frames and then added new stud work around the door opening, made new linings. The door lining run flush with the landing, but come out further into the rooms where I’ll be battening it out and fixing plasterboard, so the walls will be as thick as if they had been redone.

In the end I couldn’t bring myself to ditch all that plasterboard when it was technically useable.

These first three door linings was a bit of a test, but to be honest, they feel pretty darn solid.

Made the door linings up using an mdf template. Also reduced the width of the doors to 686mm wide doors to allow for the extra stud work. Studs fixed to plates on floor and ceiling. Had to add extra noggins in the ceiling.

Any additional space around the stud work has been filled with expanding foam.

Few more to do then to get it all skimmed.

Will try and post some more updates when I hang the doors!
 

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Thought I’d give a little update on this. After much thought, mulling, measuring and planning, I decided not to pull down the walls.

Instead I’ve cut out the existing door frames and then added new stud work around the door opening, made new linings. The door lining run flush with the landing, but come out further into the rooms where I’ll be battening it out and fixing plasterboard, so the walls will be as thick as if they had been redone.

In the end I couldn’t bring myself to ditch all that plasterboard when it was technically useable.

These first three door linings was a bit of a test, but to be honest, they feel pretty darn solid.

Made the door linings up using an mdf template. Also reduced the width of the doors to 686mm wide doors to allow for the extra stud work. Studs fixed to plates on floor and ceiling. Had to add extra noggins in the ceiling.

Any additional space around the stud work has been filled with expanding foam.

Few more to do then to get it all skimmed.

Will try and post some more updates when I hang the doors!
Looks like you have come up with a good solution , Like the best Grand Designs hit a snag keep em fluid and think of other ways round it PS scraping PB down here costs plenty at the tip so good reuse and now just rhink if you are ever stranded on a desert island you will be able to survive in comfort just pack a few tools when you go on holiday in case 😁😁
 
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